Lhotse Expedition

57 Days

Lhotse the fourth highest peak in the world at an elevation of 8,516 meters/ 27,940 feet lies on the border between the Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal. The peak’s northern side is formed by the massive wall of Everest and the western side by the mighty Nuptse. Lhotse has four distinct summits: Lhotse Main at 8,516 meters /27,940 feet, Lhotse Middle/ Lhotse Central I or Lhotse East at 8,414 meters/ 27,605 feet, Lhotse Central II at 8,372 meters/27,467 feet and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 meters/ 27,503 feet. The Lhotse Main considered an intermediately difficult eight-thousander ascended from the standard Reiss Couloir route. The secondary summits and extremely steep South Face are regarded as some of the most difficult and dangerous climbs in the world. The icy Northeastern Face still remains unclimbed.

The Lhotse peak is connected to Everest by the South Col located on the west face. Lhotse’s South Face rises rapidly, making it the steepest mountain face in the world. This section also consists of Yellow Band, an area of sandstone rock where crampons become less effective. Another hurdle Geneva Spur, a large rock structure near the summits of Everest and Lhotse situated above Camp III and the Yellow Band, before Camp IV and the South Col. So a high level of physical and mental fitness with prior climbing experience is required for this expedition.

The adventure begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. From Lukla, you will begin the trek traversing across various settlements and deep sections of wilderness. Crossing the villages of Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, Lobuche, and eventually to Everest Base Camp. After various activities and training at the base camp head on the climb. The climb takes you to Camp I, II, III, IV, and finally to the summit of the Lhotse. After scaling the peak head back towards the camps and back to Namche Bazaar and eventually to Kathmandu.

Lhotse South Face Route Camps:

Camp I (Altitude: 5900 meters/ 19,356 feet)

Camp I is situated at an altitude of 5900 meters in the middle of huge boulders and surrounded by loose rocks.

Camp II (Altitude: 6400 meters/ 20,997 feet)

Camp II is situated at an elevation of 6400 meters. The camp is nestled in the lateral moraine at the bottom of southern ridge. The camp is also known as the main acclimatization camp.

Camp III (Altitude: 7100 meters/ 23,293 feet)

Camp III is situated on a southeastern ridge on the Lhotse wall. Providing grand views of the mountains around.

Camp IV (Altitude: 7900 meters/ 25,918 feet)

Camp IV is the last camp before summiting the Peak. The camp is nestled in a relatively flat area having loose rocks. From the camp, the Lhotse nestles on the southern side. The climb to the camp is inclined to have slopes ranging from 40 to 50 degrees.

Camp IV to the Summit of Lhotse

From camp IV head towards the summit. Traversing across glaciers, snow, and steep surfaces. The climb takes you to the summit of the southern face of Lhotse.

Entry fee and Permits:

The following permits are required Lhotse Expedition:

1) Mountaineering Fees: Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450 (USD)

2) Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and

3) Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit.

The Nepal Tourism Boards office in Kathmandu or the park’s entrance gate in Monjo can provide you with Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit for NRS 3000.

The fee for citizens of SAARC nations is NRS 1500.

You must complete the permit application and present your passport or a copy of your passport. You must be in Lukla to obtain the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit. The permission costs NRS 2000 and may be acquired at the rural municipality counter on the outskirts of the settlement.

You won’t have to worry about waiting for permits since the Alpine Club of Himalaya or our guides will take care of everything.

Accommodation:

You will be accommodated in 3-star hotels in Kathmandu. During the trek, we will be staying at lodges/ teahouses providing basic facilities. From the base camp, you will be staying in makeshift camps.

Meals and drinking water:

Everest region Trek is one of the most facilitated trekking destinations of the country, providing basic to luxury ones.

In this trial, you’ll be provided with a variety of cuisine to choose from. Nepali, Tibetan, Indian, western as well as continental meals. As the region has small tea houses to luxury hotels the facilities they provide are basic to grandeur according to your budget. Try various traditional cuisine and popular snacks and delicacies renowned in the region.

Similarly, drinking water is accessible with natural water supplies which are untreated, so direct use of the water is not recommended, you may refill boiling water or cold filter water from any of the teahouses. However, if you buy a water purification tablet, chlorine drops or utilize SODIS (sunlight assisted) filtration procedures for further assurance, saving money, and reducing plastic pollution.

Best Time to Visit?

The best season for trekking in the Everest region is during the season of autumn and spring, the months of September, October, November, March, April, and May.

During the autumn season, the months of September, October, and November the weather is clear with warm temperatures and the visibility is great. As the weather is mild it’s very easy to get around the region.

The spring season of March, April, and May is also the best time to visit the Everest region, marking the end of the winter, the spring season brings a change in the topography of the region and the destination comes to life with endless rows of different colored rhododendron, moss and orchid draped trees, colorful undergrowth stretching for miles and the snowy white mountains peaks on the backdrop of clear blue skies.

Monsoon season is not favorable for trekking as the weather gets harsh and it’s hard to get around the country with frequent landslides and floods. So usually, monsoon season is avoided by trekkers.

In the winter season, the area receives a high amount of snowfall, covering most of the trail, and access is denied to most of the regions of Everest, making it hard to trek.

Travel Insurance:

All clients participating in any activity must have travel insurance. Personal injury, death, hospital expenditures, repatriation fees, helicopter rescue. Any other disease covered by the insurance plan will be given. We highly advise you to acquire a comprehensive insurance plan from a trustworthy insurance company.

Passport and Visa:

Every client must have a valid passport from the return date with a 6 months prior validity by the Nepalese consulate in your country or immigration office at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.

Important note: 

Your safety is of paramount importance to us at the Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by the Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.

  • Private vehicle / Flights
  • Climbing, Trekking
  • March-May and Sep-Nov
  • Hotel and Guesthouse
  • Full Board
  • 1-30
  • 8516m (Lhotse summit)
  • Kathmandu, Nepal (TIA)
  • Kathmandu, Nepal (TIA)

Overview

Lhotse the fourth highest peak in the world at an elevation of 8,516 meters/ 27,940 feet lies on the border between the Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal. The peak’s northern side formed by the massive wall of Everest and the western side by the mighty Nuptse. Lhotse has four distinct summits: Lhotse Main at 8,516 meters /27,940 feet, Lhotse Middle/ Lhotse Central I or Lhotse East at 8,414 meters/ 27,605 feet, Lhotse Central II at 8,372 meters/27,467 feet and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 meters/ 27,503 feet. The Lhotse Main considered an intermediately difficult eight-thousander ascended from the standard Reiss Couloir route. The secondary summits and extremely steep South Face regarded as some of the most difficult and dangerous climbs in the world. The icy Northeastern Face still remains unclimbed.

Trip Highlight

  • Ascend the 4th highest mountain in the world.
  • Traverse across various landscapes and microclimates.
  • Explore isolated villages.
  • Visit ancient monasteries of the region.
  • Learn about the rich culture and traditions of the indigenous people.
  • Witness views like never before views of the greater Himalayan range.
  • Thrilling and adrenaline rush Adventure.

Itinerary

Once you arrive at Kathmandu International Airport, you’ll be warmly welcomed by our representative from The Alpine Club of Himalaya. Once you are done checking in at the hotel. The rest of the day is free to explore this historic and vibrant city.

After breakfast, head on for a full-day sightseeing tour of the Kathmandu Valley. First head towards Durbar (Palace) Square, the epicenter of religious and cultural life, an area filled with old temples and historical significance with glorious old Newari architecture. Some of the sights include Kal Bhairav, Hanuman Dhoka, Taleju Temple, Kasthamandap, and Kumari Ghar; home to the Living Goddess.
Afterward, visit Swayambhunath Stupa, one of the oldest Buddhist stupas in the world, which is majestically set high on a hill overlooking Kathmandu Valley. Thereafter proceed towards Pashupatinath Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This massive temple complex sits alongside the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Only Hindus are allowed to enter the courtyard of the temple, whereas tourists can see the temple from the eastern side of the Bagmati River. Later visit Boudhanath, a Buddhist Stupa which is one of the largest in the world. This massive structure stands tall with four pairs of eyes each facing the four cardinal directions, watching for the righteous behavior of mankind and human prosperity. After exploring the valley head towards your accommodation. Later join in for a brief orientation regarding the expedition.

Today catch an early flight towards the hilltop settlement of Lukla. The flight takes you past lush woodlands and offers grand views of the greater mountain range. Upon reaching Lukla after a brief rest start your trek towards the beautiful settlement of Phakding.
Descending above farmlands you will pass through Sherpa villages of Chheplung, Ghat, Sano, and Thulo Gumela. On route visit, the ancient Drangdrak Gompa and Pema Choling Gompa with breathtaking views of sacred mountain Kumbila and sister summit Kusum Kanguru peaks on the backdrop. Following the trail covered with lush woodlands, you will reach the settlement of Phakding.

Today you will be heading towards the Sherpa capital and the economic hub of the region. Start by traversing through the villages of Zamphute and Tok Tok. Along this section witness dazzling views of Thamserku glistening in the morning sun, which stays with you in most of the sections. Next pass through the scenic Sherpa villages of Benkar, Chumoa, and Monjo. On route visit the Utche Choling Gompa located on the bluff abutting the Dudhkoshi River. From here a further trek will lead you to the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO declared a world heritage site. After your permits are inspected head on to the other half of the trek.
Traversing across steep slopes head towards Namche Bazaar. As, you progress you will cross through the last village of Jorsale and to an amazing high bridge over the Dudh Koshi River gorge, and just before this bridge, the Dudhkhosi is met by its tributary, the Bhote Koshi. As, you gain altitude catch your first glimpse of Mt. Everest, peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge, and you will reach the settlement of Namche Bazar.

Due to thin air at higher altitudes, proper acclimatization is very crucial to let your body adapt. For the next two days, you will be heading on various acclimatization excursions.
Namche Bazar is the biggest market of the Everest region situated on the lap of Khumbu Himal range at an altitude of 3420 meters and is the major regional trading center accommodating the headquarters of the Everest National Park.
Head on various activities around Namche Bazaar. Before dawn head out to any vantage point to savor the views of the snowy peaks dancing with the rays of the sun. After lunch head toward the Army post which is also the Sagarmatha National park Headquarters. From here, witness the astonishing views of the great Mahalangur range. In the west, the Kwangde range and on the southeast succession of high peaks: Kusum Kanguru with its three summits, Thamserku standing tall, and Kangtega. Similarly, the Khumbila peak rises in the north while Thange Ragi and Pharchamo soar to the right of Kwangde.

From Namche, take the easy level trail that cuts around the ridge from Chhorkung. Along the way witness a grand panorama of peaks, from Thamserku to Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Everest. Following the trail, you’ll reach Kyangjuma 3550 meters and a short walk from here leads you to an important trail junction at Sanasa (3600m). From where follow the trail to Tengboche that runs gently downhill towards the river. The trail drops gradually to Lawichasa and on the backdrop of Mt. Ama Dablam soaring above the trail. From Lawichasa a narrow trail branches north towards Tashinga (3380m) and now descend on steep stone steps to Phunki Thenga (3250m) where you’ll cross a bridge. From the bridge, the trail climbs past some water-powered prayer wheels and begins a sustained climb through a woodland of rhododendrons. Keep an eye out as you might see musk deer and Himalayan Thar among the trees. Follow the path, and you’ll come across Mani walls and a pair of Chortens. The start of Tengboche village, which is scattered across a wide, grassy saddle below a crescent-shaped ridge covered by scrub pines and rhododendrons.
From Tengboche follow the trail through a dense forest of conifers and rhododendrons. Following the trail, you’ll reach the settlement of Debuche. At Debuche visit the Debuche Gompa which has some expressive old thangka and murals painted on wooden panels. Next head towards a small Buddhist nunnery on the east hillside. From Debuche the trail continues through dense forest to reach Milinggo and then drops steeply to a suspension bridge over Imja Khola. Cross the bridge and climb the hillside opposite to a white stupa and after a hundred yards you’ll see a much grander scale stupa on the backdrop of towering Mt. Ama Dablam at the end of the valley and towards the east of the stupa is a footprint of Khumbu’s patron Lama Sange Dorje.
Following the trail, you’ll soon reach Pangboche village which has the oldest monastery in the Khumbu region. Pangboche Gompa was founded by Lama Sange Dorje. Following the Imja Khola, the trial climbs towards the village of Shomare where the woodland ends and beyond this village, you’ll be walking on an arid stretch, an alpine terrain with patches of scrub and isolated pastures lands and high meadows. Crossing through the pasture lands and herdsmen’s stone huts at Orsho and Tsuro Wog, then turn right where the trail descends to a point near the confluence of Imja Khola and Khumbu Khola. Finally climbing a low ridge, you’ll reach the sprawling settlement of Dingboche. A cold and windy place with sub-zero night temperatures even in summer.

On the trail to Lobuche, find yourselves truly in the lap of the Himalayas giants with awesome views on all sides. Follow the trail and pass through Dusa where you’ll discover herdsmen’s uninhabited stone huts. Next head towards Chupki Lhara where you’ll notice a large heaps of stones with prayer flags. A mark remembering the mountaineers who perished on a mission to climb Mt.Everest. From Chupki Lhara, the trail drops to the Khumbu glacier moraine after which you’ll see three great peaks-Khumbutse, Lingtren, and Pumori straight in front of you. Now walking the final steps along a murmuring stream, you’ll reach the village of Lobuche.

The trail starts with a gentle walk on a grassy terrain and a few scattered boulders, all along the trail, you’ll see the snowy wall of lofty mountains ahead. After an ascent of 60 meters/200 feet, you’ll reach the top of the lateral moraine wall of the Changri glacier, a level spot called Thangma Riju from where you’ll witness a spectacular 360-degree panorama of the mountains around-Taboche, Lobuche peaks, Pumori, and the rest of Mahalangur Himal peaks, with Changtse of Tibet and Nuptse filling the eastern horizon.

The trail now crosses the moraine of the Changri glacier which joins the Khumbu glacier from the west. From here you’ll be climbing on a steep and stony slope towards Gorak Shep after reaching Gorak Shep leave your heavy backpacks and move towards Everest Base Camp.

Walking by the shallow blue waters of Gorak Shep Lake, the Changtse peak in Tibet and the Lho La depression can be seen straight ahead. Cross through several glaciers, icefalls, frozen pools of melt water, exposed icy walls, and large boulders and finally reach Everest Base Camp from where trekking ends and mountaineering begins.

From this day the climbing period starts. Followed by various basic to advanced training. The climb takes you from the base camp to Camp I, II, III, IV, and finally to the summit.

After returning to the base camp summiting the Lhotse, start the cleanup campaign. As we follow leave no traces only footprints.

Traversing on a downhill section you will cross the settlements of Lobuche and Thukla. After, walking across the banks of Khumbu Khola cross the river and head down towards Cholatse and finally to Pheriche.

Start your trek but crossing the rapids of Khumbu Khola and ascending a steep ridge having sheer cliffs with views of Imja Valley, Mt. Ama Dablam, and Kantega. Progressing on the trail you will descend to the tiny settlements of Orsho and Shomare before heading towards Lower Pangboche. From here cross the Imja Khola River, then ascend back towards Thyangboche.
At Thyangboche visit the ancient monastery of the region. According to the legends, Lama Sange Dorjee, who came from Tibet’s Rongphu Monastery, founded Thyangboche Monastery in the 17th century. Thyangboche was destroyed by an earthquake in 1933, rebuilt, and again badly damaged by a fire in 1989. Construction of the present monastery was completed in 1992.
Explore the area and start friendly talks with the monks and get an insight into the culture and life of the people. After a brief exploration, descending on a woodland covered with juniper, rhododendron, and fir you will reach Phunkitenga, from here crossing the Dudh Koshi River and ascend towards Trashinga. Following the high route above the valley via Shanasa you will reach the settlement of Namche Bazaar.

Today start walking out of Namche Bazaar on a downhill hike along the Dudh Koshi River route eventually arriving at Lukla. Along the way cross multiple suspension bridges and pass through various ancient monasteries and settlements. Once you arrive at Lukla rest and later celebrate your success of the climb.

After an early Morning breakfast, head towards the Lukla Airport and fly back to Kathmandu. The picturesque flight from Lukla to Kathmandu seems like a delight, once you arrive at Kathmandu you’ll be driven to your accommodation. The valley has various attractions, head out on a guided tour or explore the city on your own. Later in the evening join in for a special dinner program to mark the end of your adventure with your guide and our representatives.

Today you will have a leisure day in Kathmandu. Stroll around the vibrant city and visit various attractions around. Later in the evening join in for a special farewell dinner program to mark the end of your successful adventure.

Today you’ll be returning to your country. The Alpine Club of Himalaya representative will drop you at the airport three hours before your flight departs.
If you have any inquiries or require assistance and further information about this trip or any other trips, please feel free to contact Alpine Club of Himalaya – Walk of the Himalaya.

NOTE: All of the aforementioned trekking hours are approximations and should only be used as a general guideline.

Cost Include

  • All airport/hotel pick up and drop in private vehicle
  • Transportation during the trekking period
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu
  • Accommodation during trek
  • An experienced English-speaking Trekking Guide and a Porter during the trek.
  • Salary, food, insurance, and lodging cost for guide and porter
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, and Tea/Coffee during the trek.
  • Welcome and Farewell Meals and Breakfasts while in Kathmandu.
  • All permits, fees, and Government Taxes
  • ACH Kitbag and T- shirt for you
  • Ncell Sim Card (Nepali Sim Card)

Cost Exclude

  • Nepal entry visa fees.
  • International airfare and departure tax.
  • Bar bills, laundry, and other expenses of personal nature.
  • Travel insurance including evacuation.
  • Tips for local staff, guides, and porters.

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Lhotse Expedition

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