Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing – 17 Days

17 Days

Join Alpine Club of Himalaya’s ultimate alpine climbing expedition to Kyajo Ri, standing at 20,295ft, with an exciting combination of steep alpine ice and rock climbing that leads to an airy summit with magnificent views of the Himalayan range. Unlike other trekking peaks, the route actually ends on the highest magnificent pointed summit, unlike Lobuche East, or Island Peak which stops on lower fore-summits, shy of the penultimate point.

Our 17-day journey begins in Kathmandu with visits to various UNESCO World Heritage sites followed by trekking in the amazing hilly and mountainous regions of Nepal. Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are the best months for this trip. Although Kyajo Ri can be climbed during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.

The Climbing Group

For this trip, there will be one climbing leader for climbing trips, one trekking leader for trekking trips, an assistant leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant leader), Sherpa porters for carrying luggage (2 trekkers: 1 porter), and other helpers as per requirement in the climbing section. This arrangement ensures that should anybody in the group fall sick; the trip can still go ahead as planned. We can run the trip with a minimum of two people, and a maximum of twelve. However, if you would like to make a group booking for more than twelve people, please contact us.

Important – Flight Delays/Cancellation:

The Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight is sometimes delayed by a few hours or may even be canceled for one, two, or more days due to unfavorable weather conditions. Such conditions may arise even in the best seasons. Hence, in such cases, you must be prepared for long waits both at Kathmandu or Lukla airports, as this can happen either at the start or end of the trek, or both!  We do our utmost to avoid such delays, and arrange for you to depart on the next available flight. Thus, we suggest that you prepare for possible delays/cancellation with a few buffer days before and after your arranged itinerary for arrival or departure. If interested, during the buffer days, you may opt to enjoy other activities such as sightseeing, rafting, wildlife activities, shopping, etc.

In extreme conditions, we can organize helicopter rescue (if available) and upon request by our clients. The helicopter charges around USD 3500 and it can lift 4-5 persons per flight.

If the flight delay/cancellation is extended and happens at the beginning of a trip affecting your planned schedule, you may opt for an alternative trip. However, please note that there will be no refund, if you lose your time waiting at the airport and do not take an alternative tour or you only do a short trek later due to time limitation. If the cancellation happens before the trip, we will provide you with accommodation and lunch in a guesthouse in Kathmandu. In case of flight delay/cancellation after finishing the trek, you will be responsible for all your expenses. Please also note that you will not be entitled to any refund for the services (such as hotel, transport, flight, etc) included in the package that you would not use later.

  • Private vehicle / Flights
  • Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Kathmandu, Nepal
  • 6,189m (20,306ft) at Island Peak
  • All meals while climbing/trekking days and rest of the days breakfast only
  • 3 Nights Hotel stay in Kathmandu; 9 Nights in Guest House; 2 Nights in Tented Camps
  • Grading 5
  • 11 days trekking/climbing
  • March-May and Sep-Nov

Overview

Important Note : 

Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.

Trip Highlight

  • Take in fantastic mountain views
  • Meet local people as you travel
  • Panoramic views of Kyajo Ri Peak
  • Scenic flight to Lukla and return
  • Explore Everest

Itinerary

You will be welcomed by an amazing view of The Himalayas as you approach Kathmandu. At the airport, you will be welcomed by a representative of Alpine Club of Himalaya. In the evening, you will be served excellent authentic Nepalese cuisine which will introduce you to the country’s food culture. Overnight in Kathmandu.

We depart in the morning to the Pashupatinath temple, a famous 5th century Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva located on the banks of the Bagmati River. We then tour Boudhnath, one of the holiest Buddhist stupas, and the Patan Darbar square that has heritage buildings representing the four kingdoms (Kantipur, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, Kirtipur) in Nepal. You can do your final preparations for the trek. In the evening, you will be introduced to the rest of the group, get your equipment checked by your climbing leader, and be briefed on the trip by a representative of Alpine Club of Himalaya. Overnight in Kathmandu

We board an early morning flight to Lukla, from the Kathmandu domestic airport. We fly over a breathtaking view of The Himalayas on one of the most beautiful air routes in the world. Lukla, located in north eastern Nepal, is situated at 2,860 meters (9,383 ft). Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet our crew, and begin our trek through the village of Lukla to Phakding, through fantastic views of green valleys, streams that flow from the mountains above, and mountain peaks. To help you with acclimatization, we rest the remainder of the day. You can stroll along the village and visit monasteries if you wish to. Overnight in Phakding.

We walk through beautiful pine forests along the Dudh Koshi river, and after an hour, we come across the beautiful Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) that rises majestically to a saddle shaped summit. We cross five suspension bridges along the way, with the last one known as the Hillary Bridge, being the highest and named after Sir Edmund Hillary. If the weather is clear, we may even catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest peeking over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We continue walking to the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park in Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest. It is an uphill walk from Hillary Bridge to Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

We set aside today to help you acclimatize to the altitude. We can either stroll around the village, visit the monasteries or the local museum, the Edmund Hillary School, the Khumjung Monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti, or check out the weekly market. If you wish to hike, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

We walk along a relatively easy trail on a steady level to the settlement of Thame, a beautiful village with amazing views of the Himalayas. From there we make a short ascend up to Mende. Overnight in Mende.

From Mende we leave the main trails and trek up a faint yak trail over a couple of passes to enter the Kyajo Drangka, the isolated broad valley south of Kyajo Ri. On our way, we enjoy great views of the Himalayan peaks such as Thamserku, Khumbila, Kusum Kangaru, Kwangde, and Pachharmo. Kyajo Ri Base Camp is set up on a flat surface between a rocky mountain and a small river. Overnight in Kyajo Ri base camp.

We set aside today to help you acclimatize to the altitude before summiting the Kyajo Ri peak. However, since it is always wise to stay active during acclimatization, we will take a brief hike up to Camp I and back. We also check our climbing equipments today. Overnight at the Kyajo Ri base camp.

The ascent to Camp I begins with hiking over grassy spur and boulders, then we hike up a rocky section with a lot of boulders and skid pebbles. We walk for another few hours on a steep trail before reaching Camp I. Our camp will be set on a level ground, with good views and within easy reach of water from the lake at the foot of the Glacier. Overnight camp at Camp I.

This is another day set aside for acclimatization and rest before summiting the Kyajo Ri peak. We trek to Camp II and come back to Camp I to spend the night. This will also help us prepare for the next day’s climb. Overnight at Camp I.

Today involves some technical climbing over mixed face slopes up to 55 degree angles, and negotiating through a glacier. Camp II lies near the glacier and has sufficient place for camping. From the camp, we can see the climbing route we will be attempting the next day. We pitch our camp near a big glacier lake. If the weather is favorable, we will get plenty of sunlight during the day. Overnight at Camp II.

We begin to climb at 3am though the rocky section with big boulders till we reach a part of the glacier. Here the ground steepens, and we climb snow and ice on the Southwest Ridge. The sharp summit is a narrow wedge of snow. After spending some time celebrating our success and taking pictures on the summit, we return back to Camp I. Overnight in Camp II.

Today we return back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp and celebrate the successful completion of our trip. The return trip will be relatively easier than the summit day as you will be familiar with the terrain and know what to expect on your journey back. Upon reaching the Base Camp, we relax for some time and if interested, we may even explore the surrounding area.

Before we leave the Base Camp, we ensure to clean up the area. At Alpine Club of Himalaya, we are deeply committed to maintaining the ecosystems. We return to Namche Bazaar via Mende and Thame.

The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk very cautiously as we battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi river, the trail becomes more level and a little easier. Overnight in Lukla.

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu. In Kathmandu, you may spend the day explore more of Kathmandu, shop for souvenirs, lovely pashminas, or intricate art work. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate your successful summit. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Representatives of Alpine Club of Himalaya will transport you to the airport.

Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport, both Domestic, and International, with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Alpine Club of Himalaya representative while arriving and departing.
  • 3 Nights of three-star twin sharing hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on a B/B basis,.
  • Experienced trekking and climbing guides during trekking and climbing (1:1 Sherpa).
  • Regular Flight Tickets for the Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to climbing members/ Staff.
  • All trekking and camping equipment during the climbing period.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and Staff during the trek and climbing on twin sharing basis.
  • 20kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by the porter.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
  • Climbing permit for Kyajo Ri Peak.
  • All wages, pieces of equipment, medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staff.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charges, and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation, and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Alpine Club of Himalaya Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
  • Government Taxes & Service Charges
  • Ncell Sim Card (Nepalese Sim Card including 20 GB data pack) - Only 1 for a group.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)Waketalkies & Filming permit.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.

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Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing – 17 Days
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Sujan Lamichhane
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