Island Peak via Salleri and Return to Kathmandu by Flight – 17 Days

The Island Peak Climb via Salleri and Return to Kathmandu by Flight – 17 Days itinerary is a rewarding Himalayan peak climbing adventure designed for climbers who want a slower, more scenic, and culturally rich approach to the Everest region. Instead of flying directly to Lukla, this journey begins with a beautiful overland drive from Kathmandu to Salleri, allowing you to gradually experience Nepal’s mid-hill landscapes, terraced farmlands, rhododendron forests, and charming Sherpa settlements before entering the high-altitude terrain of the Khumbu. This natural and gentle altitude progression makes the ascent safer and more comfortable, giving climbers a better chance to adjust before attempting Island Peak (Imja Tse), one of Nepal’s most iconic trekking peaks standing proudly at 6,189 meters.

From Salleri, the trail follows the classic Everest Base Camp route through villages like Nunthala, Bupsa, and Phakding before reaching the bustling Sherpa hub of Namche Bazaar. As you move higher toward Tengboche, Dingboche, and Chukhung, the landscapes shift into dramatic alpine scenery surrounded by legendary Himalayan giants such as Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Thamserku, Makalu, and Mount Everest. Before the summit attempt, you stay in Chukhung for proper acclimatization, followed by a night at Island Peak Base Camp. Here, your climbing guide provides essential pre-climb training, including crampon use, rope handling, glacier travel techniques, and safety practices to prepare you for the technical sections ahead.

The final summit push is a thrilling experience that involves using fixed ropes, crossing crevasses, and navigating steep snow slopes before reaching the summit ridge. Standing atop Island Peak rewards you with stunning 360-degree views of the Imja Valley and an unforgettable panorama of some of the highest mountains on earth. After the successful climb, the return journey follows the trail back to Lukla, where a short and scenic mountain flight brings you safely to Kathmandu.

This 17-day peak climbing adventure is perfect for those seeking their first Himalayan summit or for trekkers aiming to step into more technical climbing. With expert guidance, well-planned acclimatization, and complete logistical support, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures a safe, enjoyable, and unforgettable Island Peak climbing experience for adventurers ready to take on a true Himalayan challenge.

About Island Peak

Island Peak (6,189m), also known locally as Imja Tse, is one of the most famous trekking peaks in Nepal. Its name was given by early British climbers because the peak appears like an island rising from the surrounding glaciers when viewed from Dingboche. Island Peak is widely recognized as the perfect introductory climbing peak for those preparing for higher expeditions such as Everest, Cho Oyu, or Lhotse, due to its challenging but achievable routes.

The climb involves trekking through moraine fields, glacier crossings, steep ice headwalls, and crevasses, requiring technical climbing techniques and the use of ropes and ladders. The final section of the ascent is the most demanding, with a steep climb to the narrow summit ridge. Once at the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking 360-degree views of Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and other towering Himalayan peaks.

Island Peak’s popularity comes from its accessibility, rewarding summit experience, and its role as a training ground for aspiring mountaineers. With the experienced team and guides of Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can take on the challenges of this technical ascent with confidence, ensuring both safety and the best chance of success.

Best Time for the Climb

The best time to climb Island Peak is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons.

Spring (March–May)

Spring offers stable weather, longer daylight hours, and vibrant landscapes. Temperatures at higher altitudes are relatively mild, and the climbing route remains in good condition. Rhododendron forests bloom along the lower trails, adding extra beauty to the trek.

Autumn (September–November)

Autumn is the most popular season due to its clear skies, excellent visibility, and dry weather. Temperatures are comfortable for trekking and climbing, and the views of the Himalayas are at their sharpest. This season provides the highest chance of a successful summit.

Both seasons provide the ideal conditions for trekking, acclimatization, and climbing, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable Island Peak experience.

Physical Fitness and Requirements

Climbing Island Peak via Salleri demands strong physical fitness, endurance, and preparation, as it combines long trekking days with high-altitude climbing. Since the route begins with several days of trekking through rugged trails before reaching the Khumbu, trekkers must be comfortable walking 6–8 hours per day on uphill and downhill terrain. A good level of cardiovascular fitness, leg strength, stamina, and the ability to carry a light backpack are essential for maintaining steady progress.

Prior experience with multi-day trekking or high-altitude hiking is highly beneficial. For the climbing portion, Island Peak requires basic knowledge of mountaineering skills such as using crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and fixed ropes, although training will be provided at Base Camp by Alpine Club of Himalaya’s professional climbing guide.

It is recommended to start physical training at least 8–10 weeks before the trip, including trekking practice, strength workouts, and aerobic exercises like running, cycling, and stair climbing to ensure a safe and successful ascent.

Difficulty Level

Island Peak is considered a moderately difficult trekking peak, suitable for trekkers with strong fitness and beginner climbers wanting to attempt their first 6,000-meter summit. The approach via Salleri adds both distance and elevation changes, making the trek physically demanding but excellent for acclimatization.

The final summit push includes glacier travel, steep snow slopes, and a headwall near the summit that requires the use of fixed ropes and mountaineering equipment. While it does not require advanced technical climbing expertise, the high altitude, cold temperatures, and exposed sections make the climb challenging. Proper acclimatization, professional guidance, and steady pacing are key to overcoming the difficulty.

With appropriate preparation and support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, dedicated trekkers can successfully complete this rewarding Himalayan peak climb.

Preparation for the Climb

To increase your chances of success and make the journey more enjoyable, Alpine Club of Himalaya recommends a 3–6 month training program before your climb:

• Cardio Training: Running, cycling, swimming, or stair climbing 4–5 times a week to build endurance.
• Strength Training: Squats, lunges, deadlifts, planks, and push-ups to strengthen legs, core, and upper body.
• Hiking Practice: Regular hikes with a weighted backpack to simulate trekking conditions and get used to long hours on the trail.
• Altitude Training (if possible): Trekking or hiking in higher altitudes before the expedition helps the body adjust to lower oxygen levels.
• Climbing Skills: Basic training with crampons, harnesses, and ice axes is recommended. Alpine Club of Himalaya also provides on-site training at base camps and high camps before summit attempts.
• Mental Preparation: Meditation, yoga, or mental resilience exercises can help with focus and positivity during tough sections of the climb.

Comprehensive Guiding Services

Climbing two iconic Himalayan peaks requires more than just determination — it demands proper guidance, logistics, and safety measures. With Alpine Club of Himalaya, you are supported every step of the way by a team of experienced professionals.

• Expert Climbing Guides: Our guides are licensed, highly experienced, and have successfully led multiple expeditions to Lobuche East, Island Peak, and other Himalayan summits. They provide technical training on the use of crampons, harnesses, ice axes, and fixed ropes, ensuring that even climbers with limited prior experience can attempt the peaks with confidence.
• Sherpa Support Team: Skilled Sherpa climbers and porters accompany you throughout the trek and climb, handling logistics, carrying equipment, and ensuring your safety on steep or icy sections.
• Pre-Climb Training: At both Lobuche High Camp and Island Peak Base Camp, your guides conduct practical training sessions to review rope handling, glacier travel, and climbing techniques.
• Safety Measures: Alpine Club of Himalaya prioritizes safety with proper acclimatization days, oxygen support if needed, first aid kits, and emergency evacuation arrangements.
• Personalized Support: With small group sizes, our team ensures personalized guidance and encouragement, helping climbers adapt physically and mentally to high-altitude conditions.

Choosing Alpine Club of Himalaya guarantees a professional guiding service that maximizes your chances of summit success while minimizing risks.

Weather and Climate

Understanding the weather and climate of the Everest region is crucial for a successful climb of Island Peak. Conditions vary with the seasons, and planning your climb during the right window enhances both safety and enjoyment.

• Spring (March to May): This is one of the most favorable seasons for climbing. Days are warmer at lower altitudes, while snow conditions remain stable at higher elevations. Clear skies provide excellent visibility, and temperatures at base camps range between -5°C to -10°C at night.
• Autumn (September to November): Another ideal season, autumn offers dry weather, clear skies, and stable climbing conditions. Nights are colder than in spring, but the visibility is outstanding. Base camp temperatures can drop to -10°C to -15°C at night.
• Winter (December to February): Temperatures drop significantly, often reaching -20°C or lower at higher camps. Snow accumulation and harsh winds make climbing much more challenging. Only experienced mountaineers attempt the peaks during this season.
• Monsoon (June to August): Heavy rainfall, cloud cover, and poor trail conditions make this the least favorable season for climbing. However, the post-monsoon season often clears up with stunning landscapes and fresh mountain views.

Weather Challenges

Even in the best seasons, climbers should be prepared for unpredictable weather in the Himalayas. At altitudes above 5,000 meters, conditions can change rapidly, and preparation is essential.

• Sudden Snowfall: Even in spring and autumn, unexpected snowstorms can occur at higher camps, making trails slippery and climbs more technical.
• Strong Winds: High winds are common above 5,500 meters, especially on summit ridges. Gusts can make climbing physically demanding and require careful rope use.
• Low Temperatures: Nighttime temperatures at high camps can drop below -15°C, and wind chill makes it feel even colder. Proper gear, including insulated clothing and high-quality sleeping bags, is essential.
• Altitude-Related Risks: Cold weather combined with thin air increases the risk of altitude sickness, frostbite, and dehydration. Careful acclimatization and constant monitoring by guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya help reduce these risks.
• Visibility Issues: Clouds and fog can roll in quickly, limiting visibility on glaciers and summit routes, which requires climbers to rely on the experience of their guides.

Despite these challenges, careful planning, proper gear, and the expertise of Alpine Club of Himalaya ensure that climbers are prepared to face changing conditions safely.

Weather Forecast

The weather in the Everest region can be unpredictable, especially at altitudes above 5,000 meters. While spring and autumn are the most reliable seasons for clear skies and stable conditions, climbers must always stay updated with the latest forecasts. Reliable weather predictions help determine the best time to move from base camps to high camps and plan safe summit pushes for Island Peak (6,189m).

Professional climbing guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya continuously monitor local and international mountain weather services, including forecasts on wind speed, snowfall, and temperature. This ensures summit attempts are made during safe weather windows. Even small shifts in wind or storm systems can affect climbing conditions, making accurate and timely updates essential for a successful ascent.

General Tips for Tracking Weather

Since mountain weather can change quickly, climbers are encouraged to be flexible with their schedules and always follow the guidance of their expedition leaders. Here are some useful tips for tracking weather during your climb:

• Follow Local Forecasts: Check updates from sources like the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology of Nepal and global mountain forecast platforms before and during your expedition.
• Observe the Sky: Cloud build-up, rapid wind movements, or sudden drops in temperature can signal a change in weather conditions.
• Listen to Your Guides: The experienced climbing guides of Alpine Club of Himalaya are trained to read mountain weather signs and will make informed decisions about climbing safety.
• Use Technology Wisely: Apps and satellite devices like Garmin or inReach can provide real-time weather data in remote areas.
• Stay Flexible: Always be prepared for schedule changes. Extra acclimatization or rest days are sometimes added if weather delays occur.

By staying alert and prepared, you can avoid unnecessary risks and increase your chance of a successful summit.

Safety and Security

Safety is the top priority on high-altitude climbs like Island Peak (6,189m). With the professional support of Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers receive thorough safety protocols and guidance throughout the expedition.

• Experienced Guides: Licensed climbing guides monitor your progress, adjust pace for safety, and provide technical support on ropes, glaciers, and ice slopes.
• Equipment and Gear: Use of helmets, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, and fixed ropes ensures secure movement on technical sections.
• Emergency Preparedness: Base camps and high camps are equipped with first-aid kits. The team has evacuation plans for altitude sickness or injuries, including coordination with helicopters if necessary.
• Risk Management: Weather conditions, route safety, and trail assessments are constantly evaluated to minimize hazards.

By adhering to these safety measures, climbers can focus on the adventure while minimizing potential risks.

Rules and Regulations

Climbing Island Peak via Salleri is regulated by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and local authorities to ensure safety, environmental protection, and responsible tourism.

• Mandatory Permits: Climbers must carry the Island Peak climbing permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit. Permits must be checked at multiple checkpoints along the route.
• Environmental Guidelines: All expeditions are required to follow Leave No Trace principles, including proper disposal of waste, avoiding littering, and minimizing environmental impact at camps and trails.
• Safety Compliance: Climbers must use appropriate climbing equipment, follow guide instructions, and adhere to altitude acclimatization schedules to reduce the risk of accidents or altitude sickness.
• Local Regulations: Respect for local customs, culture, and restricted areas is mandatory. Interfering with wildlife, cultural sites, or local communities is prohibited.

Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that all rules and regulations are communicated clearly, helping climbers comply with legal and environmental standards while focusing on a safe and rewarding Himalayan climbing experience.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is one of the most common risks at high elevations. Island Peak is above 6,000 meters, where oxygen levels are significantly lower. Symptoms can include headaches, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. Severe cases may progress to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which require immediate medical attention.

Preventive measures include:

• Gradual ascent and proper acclimatization days.
• Staying hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet.
• Avoiding alcohol and smoking at high altitudes.
• Communicating symptoms promptly to guides for immediate response.

With careful monitoring and support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, risks associated with altitude sickness are minimized.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization plays a crucial role in the success of the Island Peak Climb via Salleri, as the route gradually ascends from low altitudes to over 6,000 meters. The itinerary naturally supports altitude adaptation because the journey starts in Salleri and progresses slowly through the mid-hills toward the high Khumbu region. Rest days in key locations like Nunthala, Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, and Chhukung help your body adjust to decreasing oxygen levels.

·       Gradual Ascent: The overland journey and trek from Salleri ensure a slow gain in elevation, reducing the risk of altitude sickness.

·       Short Acclimatization Hikes: Optional hikes to viewpoints and nearby ridges enhance acclimatization and offer beautiful scenery.

·       Health Monitoring: Professional guides monitor your physical condition and symptoms related to altitude, making adjustments when necessary.

·       Hydration & Rest: Drinking plenty of water, maintaining a balanced diet, and getting proper sleep support effective acclimatization.

By following a structured acclimatization plan, climbers increase their safety, comfort, and overall success rate during the Island Peak summit attempt.

Facilities and Camp Setup

The Island Peak Climb via Salleri includes a combination of comfortable teahouse accommodations during the trekking days and professionally organized tented camps at high-altitude climbing zones. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that all camps are safe, well-managed, and equipped to support a successful summit bid.

1. Base Camp Facilities

Tent Accommodation: At Island Peak Base Camp, climbers stay in durable 4-season expedition tents designed to withstand harsh Himalayan weather. Each climber receives a personal tent for privacy and warmth.

·       Dining Arrangements: A dedicated mess tent serves freshly prepared, energy-rich meals suitable for high-altitude climbing.

·       Rest & Preparation Area: Designated spaces allow climbers to relax, warm up, and organize technical gear before training sessions or summit attempts.

·       Sanitation: Eco-friendly toilet tents and proper waste management follow Leave No Trace principles to protect the alpine environment.

2. High Camp Facilities

·       Summit Positioning: High Camp is strategically placed closer to the summit route, reducing climbing distance and helping climbers conserve energy for the strenuous ascent.

·       Strong Tent Setup: Climbers stay in robust, weather-resistant tents suitable for extremely cold conditions and high winds.

·       Nutritious Meals: High Camp food includes light but calorie-rich meals such as porridge, soups, noodles, and warm drinks to maintain energy levels.

·       Gear Preparation Space: Sufficient space is provided for organizing ropes, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses before summit day.

3. Safety Measures in Camps

·       Emergency Supplies: First-aid kits, oxygen cylinders, and communication devices are available at both Base Camp and High Camp.

·       Experienced Staff: Skilled Sherpa guides continuously assess weather, route conditions, and climbers’ health.

·       Secure Camp Layout: Camps are built in safe zones, avoiding risks from avalanches, wind exposure, and rockfall.

4. Comfort and Support

·       Porter Assistance: Porters carry heavy equipment, allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and summit preparation.

·       Hydration & Nutrition: Hot drinks, soups, and regular meals help maintain strength and hydration.

·       Rest & Recovery: High-quality sleeping bags and insulated tents ensure comfortable rest, essential for high-altitude performance.

With well-organized camps and professional support, Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a safe, comfortable, and efficient environment throughout the Island Peak Climb via Salleri, helping climbers stay focused on achieving the summit.

Lukla Flights and Alternatives

The trek via Salleri begins with either an overland journey to Salleri or an optional flight to Lukla for convenience. Flights to Lukla remain weather-dependent, especially during peak trekking seasons. Alpine Club of Himalaya manages all logistics to ensure safe and timely travel.

• Flights are weather-dependent, and delays or cancellations are common due to low visibility.
• Morning flights are generally more reliable.
• Alpine Club of Himalaya arranges transport from Kathmandu to Salleri or Ramechhap if needed.

Alternatives to Lukla Flights:

• Drive and Trek via Salleri: A scenic overland route that allows a gradual altitude gain and cultural immersion.
• Helicopter Charter: A faster but more expensive option to reach Lukla or Salleri, especially useful in case of flight delays.

Entry Permits & Requirements

Climbing Island Peak via Salleri requires obtaining several official permits to ensure a legal, safe, and well-regulated expedition. These permits not only allow access to the protected regions of Nepal but also support local conservation and community initiatives.

• Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
  This permit is mandatory for all climbers entering the Everest region. It is issued by the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or at the park entrance in Monjo. The permit helps regulate tourism, protect wildlife, and maintain the ecological balance of the park. Carrying a valid passport or a copy is required when obtaining this permit.
• Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
  Trekking through the Khumbu region, including settlements like Namche Bazaar and Dingboche, requires this permit. It is issued at the municipality office in Lukla or Salleri. The permit ensures that local authorities can monitor trekking activities, support sustainable tourism, and provide assistance in case of emergencies.
• Island Peak Climbing Permit
  This special climbing permit is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and is mandatory for summiting Island Peak. It regulates mountaineering activities, ensures the safety standards are maintained, and helps fund search-and-rescue operations and local climbing support services.
• Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit ( trekking from Salleri via remote routes)
  For routes that pass through the Gaurishankar Conservation Area, this permit is required. It supports the conservation of natural resources, wildlife, and cultural heritage of the region. The permit can be arranged in Kathmandu prior to departure, ensuring smooth access during the trek.

Alpine Club of Himalaya takes full responsibility for arranging all necessary permits, making the process seamless and stress-free. By managing these logistics, climbers can focus entirely on acclimatization, trekking, and summit preparation without worrying about administrative requirements. These permits also guarantee that the expedition aligns with Nepal’s regulations for environmental protection and high-altitude safety.

Transportation

Transportation for the Island Peak expedition via Salleri involves a combination of road travel, local jeeps, and trekking, carefully managed by Alpine Club of Himalaya to ensure safety and convenience throughout the journey.

• Kathmandu to Salleri: Most climbers travel by jeep, either on a public sharing basis or via private vehicles. Public jeeps are a cost-effective option, though schedules may vary depending on road conditions, traffic, and passenger demand. Private jeeps provide a more comfortable, flexible, and direct route, allowing travelers to start the trek at their own pace. The scenic drive from Kathmandu to Salleri takes approximately 8–9 hours, offering views of terraced fields, rivers, and traditional villages along the way.
• Salleri to Trekking Trailheads: From Salleri, trekking begins toward the Khumbu region. Short local jeep rides may be used to reach the starting points of the trails, depending on road accessibility and your expedition plan.
• Return from Lukla to Kathmandu: After completing the Island Peak climb, most climbers take a mountain flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. These flights provide breathtaking aerial views of the Everest region, including snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, and winding rivers. Flights are weather-dependent, and Alpine Club of Himalaya monitors schedules closely to ensure safe and timely departures.

Alpine Club of Himalaya coordinates all aspects of transportation, including road transfers, jeep arrangements, and flights, to provide a smooth, reliable, and comfortable travel experience during the entire expedition.

Meals

Meals during the Island Peak expedition are designed to provide proper nutrition and energy for high-altitude trekking and climbing. Along the route from Salleri to the high camps, climbers stay in teahouses that serve freshly prepared Nepali and Western meals. At base camp and high camps, Alpine Club of Himalaya arranges balanced expedition meals, including porridge, soups, pasta, rice dishes, and energy snacks. Special attention is given to hydration and calorie intake to maintain stamina during trekking and summit attempts.

Drinking Water

Safe drinking water is crucial for preventing dehydration and altitude sickness. Along the Salleri route, teahouses provide boiled or filtered water. At base camp and high camps, water is purified using UV filters or chemical tablets, and climbers are advised to carry personal water bottles or hydration bladders. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that clean drinking water is available throughout the expedition and encourages regular hydration to support acclimatization and physical performance.

Travel Insurance

Comprehensive travel insurance is mandatory for all participants. The insurance should cover high-altitude trekking and mountaineering activities, including emergency evacuation, helicopter rescue, medical treatment, and trip cancellation. Alpine Club of Himalaya advises climbers to obtain insurance before the expedition and provides guidance on selecting plans that meet the requirements for climbing Island Peak.

Passport and Visa

A valid passport is required for all foreign nationals entering Nepal. Most nationalities can obtain a tourist visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, while others may need to apply in advance at a Nepalese embassy. Visa regulations vary depending on the traveler’s nationality and duration of stay. Alpine Club of Himalaya assists climbers in understanding visa requirements and ensures that all travel documents are in order before departure, allowing a smooth start to the expedition.

WiFi and Electricity

While trekking and climbing Island Peak via Salleri, access to electricity and WiFi is limited due to the remote Himalayan environment. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that climbers have essential connectivity options while maintaining a safe and comfortable experience.

• Electricity Access:
  Most teahouses and lodges along the Salleri to Namche Bazaar route offer electricity, usually available for charging devices at a nominal fee. At higher altitudes, particularly at Dingboche, Chhukung, and Island Peak Base and High Camps, electricity is limited and typically provided by solar panels or small generators. Climbers are advised to bring portable power banks and extra batteries for essential devices such as headlamps, cameras, and communication equipment.
• WiFi and Connectivity:
  WiFi is available at some lodges in larger villages like Namche Bazaar and Lukla, but connectivity may be slow and inconsistent. At high camps and remote villages, there is generally no WiFi, so climbers should plan accordingly for communication with family or work. Satellite phones or local SIM cards with high-altitude coverage can be used for emergency communication.
• Energy Management:
  Climbers are encouraged to use devices sparingly to conserve battery life, especially at high altitudes where charging facilities are limited. Keeping devices fully charged before leaving larger villages ensures continuous access to essential communication and navigation tools.

By preparing for limited electricity and WiFi access, climbers can focus on acclimatization, summit preparation, and enjoying the natural beauty of the Everest region. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides guidance on managing connectivity and power needs efficiently throughout the expedition.

Guide and Porter Services

Professional guide and porter services are essential for a safe and successful Island Peak climb via Salleri. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides experienced climbing guides and trained Sherpa support throughout the expedition.

• Climbing Guides: Guides are certified and highly experienced in high-altitude mountaineering, including glacier travel, rope techniques, and summit strategy. They monitor climbers’ health, manage acclimatization schedules, and lead the summit push while ensuring safety protocols are strictly followed.
• Porter Services: Porters carry heavy luggage, camping gear, and communal supplies, allowing climbers to focus on trekking and climbing. They are trained in high-altitude logistics and are familiar with local trails, ensuring smooth and efficient movement along the route.
• Safety and Support: Both guides and porters assist in emergency situations, including altitude sickness management, minor medical care, and evacuation if required. Their presence enhances the overall safety, comfort, and success rate of the expedition.

Why Choose Island Peak Climb via Salleri?

Choosing to climb Island Peak via Salleri offers a unique and enriching Himalayan experience compared to the standard Lukla route. This route is ideal for trekkers and climbers seeking a more scenic, less crowded, and culturally immersive expedition.

1. Gradual Acclimatization: Starting the trek from Salleri, located at a lower altitude than Lukla, allows your body to adapt naturally to higher elevations. The gradual ascent reduces the risk of altitude sickness and ensures a safer and more comfortable climbing experience.
2. Scenic and Diverse Landscapes: The Salleri route passes through lush mid-hill forests, terraced fields, and traditional Sherpa villages before entering the Everest region. You experience the stunning transition from tropical valleys to snow-capped Himalayan peaks, offering incredible photographic opportunities along the way.
3. Cultural Immersion: Unlike the busier Lukla trail, the Salleri route lets trekkers interact with local communities, witness rural life, and explore less-visited villages. This authentic experience provides insight into Sherpa culture, traditional architecture, and local customs.
4. Less Crowded Trails: The Salleri approach is less crowded than the Lukla route, giving you a more peaceful trekking experience. You can enjoy the journey at your own pace without long lines at teahouses or trails.
5. Extended Trekking Experience: The route adds extra trekking days, making it perfect for those who want longer exposure to the Himalayas, build stamina, and enjoy more scenic trekking days before reaching the high-altitude sections.
6. Better Prepared for the Summit: By the time you reach Island Peak Base Camp via Salleri, your body is better acclimatized, physically prepared, and mentally ready for the summit push. This increases your chances of a successful and safe climb.
7. Flexible Logistics with Alpine Club of Himalaya: Choosing this route with Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures seamless transportation, permit arrangements, professional guides, porters, and climbing support, making your expedition smooth and stress-free from Kathmandu to the summit and back.
8. Spectacular Himalayan Views: The Salleri route provides breathtaking panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Island Peak itself, combined with the serene landscapes of the Khumbu region and surrounding valleys.

Overall, the Island Peak climb via Salleri is perfect for climbers and trekkers who want a safer, scenic, culturally immersive, and less-crowded adventure while maximizing acclimatization and summit success.

Last Minute Booking

Alpine Club of Himalaya accommodates climbers who wish to join the Island Peak expedition via Salleri at short notice. While high-altitude climbing requires preparation, last-minute bookings are possible under certain conditions:

• Availability Check: Climbers should contact Alpine Club of Himalaya to confirm space on the trek, availability of permits, and required guides and porters.
• Expedited Permits: Sagarmatha National Park entry permits and Island Peak climbing permits can be processed quickly for urgent bookings.
• Gear and Logistics: The team ensures that high-quality climbing gear, tents, and porter support are arranged in time, even for climbers joining at the last minute.
• Flexibility: Road transport to Salleri, trekking schedules, and accommodations along the route can be adjusted to accommodate late arrivals, allowing climbers to fully experience the expedition without delay.

This flexibility ensures that even climbers with limited planning time can safely join the Island Peak climb via Salleri while enjoying a complete Himalayan adventure.

Online Briefing

To ensure climbers are fully prepared, Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a comprehensive online briefing before arrival in Kathmandu:

• Itinerary Overview: Detailed explanation of the Salleri route, trekking days, acclimatization stops, summit attempts, and rest periods.
• Gear Instructions: Guidance on essential clothing, technical climbing equipment, and packing tips tailored specifically for Island Peak via Salleri.
• Safety Protocols: Instructions on high-altitude safety, use of crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and emergency procedures.
• Health and Fitness: Advice on physical preparation, altitude sickness prevention, hydration, and nutrition to ensure optimal performance.
• Q&A Session: Climbers can ask questions regarding trekking conditions, weather, cultural insights, or technical aspects of the climb.

This online briefing ensures that participants arrive in Kathmandu informed, confident, and fully prepared, maximizing safety and enjoyment during the Island Peak expedition via Salleri.

Gear Rental in Kathmandu

If you prefer to travel light, Alpine Club of Himalaya offers high-quality climbing gear for rent, including mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and helmets. Renting is a practical and cost-effective option for many climbers.

Final Notes

Before starting your Island Peak climb via Salleri, it is essential to ensure that all your gear is properly tested and fits comfortably. Well-fitted and reliable equipment is critical for safety, performance, and overall success at high altitudes. While most personal climbing and trekking gear must be brought by participants, some technical climbing equipment—such as tents, ropes, ice screws, crampons, and harnesses—may be provided as part of the expedition package. Alpine Club of Himalaya recommends confirming in advance which items are included to avoid last-minute issues and ensure full preparedness.

Cancellation Policy

Participant-Initiated Cancellations:

If you need to cancel your Island Peak expedition, it is important to notify Alpine Club of Himalaya as soon as possible to reduce financial penalties. The cancellation charges are structured as follows:

·       Cancellations made 60 days or more prior to departure will incur a 20% cancellation fee of the total trip cost.

·       Cancellations made 30–59 days before departure will incur a 50% cancellation fee.

·       Cancellations made less than 30 days before departure will result in forfeiture of the entire payment.

Organizer-Initiated Cancellations:

In rare cases where Alpine Club of Himalaya must cancel the expedition—due to extreme weather, natural disasters, political instability, or safety concerns—participants will be offered either a full refund or the option to reschedule their climb for a later date without penalty.

Force Majeure Clause:

Alpine Club of Himalaya is not responsible for additional expenses, losses, or disruptions caused by events beyond its control. This includes natural disasters (earthquakes, floods, landslides), political unrest, health emergencies, flight delays, or other unforeseen circumstances that may affect the expedition schedule.

Alpine Club of Himalaya prioritizes safety, clear communication, and flexibility, ensuring climbers can focus on their adventure with confidence and peace of mind while tackling Island Peak via Salleri.