Ama Dablam Expedition 6,812m (22,334ft) – 28 Days

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Destination

Nepal

Duration

28 Days

Best Weather

March, April, may, September, October & November

Max Altitude

6812

Accommodation

Hotel, Teahouse, and Camp

Meals

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transportation

Private vehicle / Flights

Group

Min. 1 Pax

Difficulty

Strenuous

Activities

Peak Climbing

Overview

The Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m / 22,334ft) is one of the most iconic and rewarding climbing adventures in the Himalayas, offering a perfect combination of technical challenge, breathtaking scenery, and rich Sherpa culture. Often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” due to its stunning pyramid-shaped peak, Ama Dablam dominates the skyline above Tengboche and Pangboche villages in the Everest region. This 28-day expedition organized by Alpine Club of Himalaya provides climbers with an unforgettable mountaineering experience, blending professional guidance, safe logistics, and cultural immersion. The journey begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a classic trek through the Everest trail, passing Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, and Pangboche. These stops help climbers gradually acclimatize while enjoying breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Thamserku.

The actual climb starts from Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m), and the route typically includes three higher camps along the southwest ridge, known for its rock, snow, and ice climbing sections. With fixed ropes and guided technical support, climbers tackle steep ridges, exposed traverses, and icy slopes before reaching the spectacular summit that rewards them with panoramic views of the world’s highest peaks. The expedition is ideal for experienced climbers seeking a challenging yet achievable Himalayan ascent.

Supported by the experienced team of Alpine Club of Himalaya, participants can expect professional leadership, high-quality equipment, nutritious meals, and comprehensive safety measures throughout the climb. The Ama Dablam Expedition is more than just a mountaineering challenge—it is a journey into the heart of the Khumbu, combining adventure, culture, and the unparalleled beauty of Nepal’s most elegant mountain.

Facts of the Trip

·       Highest Access: 6,812m (22,334ft)

·       Duration: 33 Days (typically)

·       Coordinates: 27°51'42" N, 86°51'40" E

·       Country: Nepal

·       Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)

·       Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L, D during trekking and climbing

·       Transportation: Car, Jeep, and Flight

·       Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

·       Culture: Sherpa and Tamang

·       Climbing Route: Southwest and Northeast Ridge

·       First Ascent: 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill & Wally Romanes (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), and Mike Ward (UK)

·       Group Size: 1–10 persons per group

·       Location: Everest Region, Nepal

·       Nearest Airport: Kathmandu (Tribhuvan International Airport)

·       Grade: Mixed Alpine AD

·       Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L, D during trekking and climbing

·       Best Season: Spring (April–May) and Autumn (September–October)

·       Included Activity: Scenic flight to Lukla

·       Mode of Travel: Tea House and Camping

·       Himalayan Sights: Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, and Kongde

 

Ama Dablam South-West Route – Camp Details

1.     Base Camp (4,600m / 15,092ft):
Ama Dablam Base Camp is one of the most scenic and comfortable base camps in the Himalayas. Located on a grassy meadow surrounded by majestic peaks, it provides a rare and pleasant environment at this altitude. Climbers often enjoy recreational activities like volleyball or soccer to stay warm and active while acclimatizing. During both the spring and autumn climbing seasons, the base camp remains active for about 45 days, hosting around 7–10 expedition teams. The camp receives abundant sunlight throughout the day, making it warmer and more enjoyable than many other high-altitude camps. From here, climbers can admire magnificent views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. The Alpine Club of Himalaya team ensures a fully equipped and comfortable base camp, managing all logistics, climbing permits, and departures as per climbers’ schedules.

2.     Camp One (5,700m / 18,800ft) – 5 Hours:
The climb from Base Camp to Camp One follows a moderate trekking trail with a short section of easy rock scrambling of about 100 meters. The final approach to the camp involves a 60-degree slope, requiring careful footwork. Along the way, climbers pass large boulders and short fourth-class rock sections, but no fixed ropes are needed. Space at Camp One is quite limited, accommodating about 6–7 two-person tents and a similar number of single tents. Climbers often need to coordinate and share space due to the narrow and uneven terrain along the southwest ridge.

3.     Camp Two (5,950m / 19,521ft) – 3 Hours:
The stretch from Camp One to Camp Two is considered the most technical section of the route. Climbers traverse a rocky ridge featuring several towers and gendarmes with steep drop-offs on both sides, gaining about 300 meters of elevation. The rock here is of excellent quality, offering enjoyable climbing with superb exposure. Toward the end of the ridge, climbers ascend the famous Yellow Tower, a short but steep section graded as French 4th class (British Severe or YDS 5.5). Camp Two is situated on narrow ledges with limited space, creating a true high-mountain experience. Due to the camp’s exposed position, extra caution is required, especially during nighttime movements.

4.     Camp Three (6,200m / 20,341ft) – 2 Hours:
The route from Camp Two to Camp Three transitions from rock to mixed ice and snow terrain, with fixed ropes set along the entire section. Climbers enjoy stunning views of the Base Camp area, Kusum Kanguru, and Kantega. This stretch includes the famous Mushroom Ridge (6,150m), a narrow snow-covered ridge that requires focus and balance. While some experienced climbers attempt to reach the summit directly from Camp Two, Alpine Club of Himalaya always establishes Camp Three for better safety and acclimatization. Due to the avalanche risk in this area, minimizing time at this camp is essential. Typically, climbers rest here for a few hours before making their summit push. The slope between the Yellow Tower and Camp Three averages about 55 degrees, demanding strong technical skills and endurance.

5.     Summit (6,812m / 22,349ft) – 10 Hours (Round Trip to Camp Two):
Summit Day is long and challenging but incredibly rewarding. The climb from Camp Three to the summit and return to Camp Two usually takes around 10 hours. The ascent begins with two steep pitches of snow and ice (around 40°), leading to the Dablam Glacier. From there, climbers move through fluted snow slopes (30°–50°) that gradually rise toward the magnificent summit. Reaching the top of Ama Dablam is a truly unforgettable moment—offering one of the most spectacular panoramic views in the Himalayas. From the summit, climbers can see Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Pumori, and Shishapangma—an awe-inspiring 360° panorama of the world’s highest peaks.

The Ama Dablam Expedition with Alpine Club of Himalaya combines technical climbing, breathtaking scenery, and a deep sense of accomplishment, making it one of Nepal’s most iconic and memorable mountaineering adventures.

Best Time for Ama Dablam Expedition

·       Spring Season (April to May)
Spring is one of the most favorable times for the Ama Dablam Expedition. The weather is generally stable with mild temperatures and longer daylight hours, allowing for smoother climbing days. The trails are beautifully decorated with blooming rhododendrons and lush greenery, adding charm to the trekking route. The snow and ice conditions on the mountain are ideal for technical climbing, making this season perfect for a safe and successful ascent.

·       Autumn Season (Late September to November)
Autumn is another excellent season for the Ama Dablam climb. The skies are crystal clear, offering outstanding visibility and breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and the surrounding Himalayan peaks. The weather is dry and stable, with moderate daytime temperatures and calm winds at higher elevations. This period is favored by many climbers for its excellent mountain conditions and vibrant cultural atmosphere in the Khumbu region.

·       Other Seasons (Winter and Monsoon)
Winter (December to February) brings extreme cold and heavy snowfall, while the monsoon season (June to August) is marked by heavy rain, slippery trails, and poor visibility. These conditions make climbing difficult and risky. Hence, they are not recommended for the Ama Dablam Expedition.

For the best climbing experience, Alpine Club of Himalaya recommends planning your Ama Dablam Expedition in either spring (April–May) or autumn (late September–November).

Difficulty Level

The Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m / 22,349ft) is considered a technical and challenging climb, suitable for experienced mountaineers with previous high-altitude climbing experience. The route, especially along the southwest ridge, involves steep rock, snow, and ice climbing that demands solid technical skills, endurance, and mental strength. Climbers must be comfortable using equipment such as crampons, ascenders, descenders, and ice axes while moving on fixed ropes. Sections like the Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge require advanced rock and ice climbing techniques, along with excellent balance and rope-handling skills.

Weather conditions in the high Himalayas can change rapidly, adding to the difficulty level. High winds, low temperatures, and exposure to altitude make the climb demanding both physically and mentally. Although Ama Dablam is not among the highest peaks in Nepal, its technical nature and exposure make it a serious expedition suitable only for well-prepared and confident climbers.

Physical Fitness and Requirements

A high level of physical fitness and mountaineering experience is essential for the Ama Dablam Expedition. Climbers should have prior experience at altitudes above 5,500m and be proficient in using climbing gear such as harnesses, carabiners, jumars, and ice tools. Training for the expedition should include aerobic conditioning, strength training, and endurance exercises like running, cycling, swimming, or stair climbing to build stamina.

Participants must also train for core strength and flexibility, as the climb involves long days of carrying loads over technical terrain. Acclimatization plays a key role, and climbers should be prepared to spend several weeks at high altitudes to adapt properly.

Good mental resilience is equally important, as the expedition requires focus, patience, and determination in challenging weather and remote mountain conditions.

The Alpine Club of Himalaya provides thorough pre-expedition briefings, acclimatization schedules, and professional guidance to ensure climbers are physically and mentally ready to take on one of Nepal’s most iconic and rewarding peaks.

Preparations and Training

Proper preparation is essential for successfully completing the Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m / 22,349ft). Since the climb involves both technical mountaineering skills and high-altitude endurance, participants are encouraged to begin training at least 4–6 months before the expedition. Adequate physical conditioning and technical readiness greatly increase the chances of a safe and successful summit.

Recommended physical and technical preparations include:

• Cardiovascular training: Engage in running, cycling, swimming, or hiking at least 4–5 days a week to build stamina, lung capacity, and overall endurance for long climbing days.
Strength training: Focus on building leg, core, and upper-body strength through squats, lunges, planks, deadlifts, and resistance exercises to handle steep ascents and carry gear efficiently.
Endurance hikes: Participate in long hikes carrying a loaded backpack (10–15 kg) to simulate trekking and climbing conditions while improving endurance.
Altitude exposure: If possible, take part in other high-altitude treks or climbs above 5,000 meters to get used to low oxygen conditions and acclimatization.
Technical skills practice: Refresh your mountaineering techniques, such as using crampons, ascenders, descenders, ice axes, and rope-handling skills, including self-arrest and abseiling on snow or ice.
Mental preparation: Develop patience, focus, and resilience—key qualities for dealing with harsh weather, challenging terrain, and extended periods at altitude.

With the expert guidance, logistics, and support provided by Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can approach the Ama Dablam Expedition with confidence. Proper preparation ensures better performance, safety, and an enjoyable climbing experience on one of Nepal’s most beautiful and technically demanding peaks.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is a critical aspect of the Ama Dablam Expedition, and the itinerary designed by Alpine Club of Himalaya incorporates a gradual ascent to help the body adjust safely to the thinning air. The trek from Lukla to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m) takes several days, passing through Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche—providing plenty of time for proper altitude adaptation.

Once at Base Camp, climbers follow the “climb high, sleep low” approach, moving up and down between higher camps to improve oxygen efficiency. Rest and rotation days are built into the schedule to minimize the risk of altitude sickness and enhance overall climbing success. During acclimatization, climbers are encouraged to stay hydrated, eat nutritious meals, and take short hikes to higher points before resting at lower elevations.

Why Acclimatization Is Important

As elevation increases, the air becomes thinner and oxygen levels drop, making it harder for the body to function efficiently. Without proper acclimatization, climbers risk developing Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or more severe conditions like High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE).

Proper acclimatization helps to:
• Stimulate the production of more red blood cells to carry oxygen efficiently.
• Allow the body to gradually adapt to lower oxygen levels and air pressure.
• Reduce the risk of AMS, HAPE, and HACE.
• Maintain energy levels and physical performance at higher altitudes.
• Increase the overall safety and success rate of the expedition.

By following a well-paced ascent schedule, maintaining hydration, and adhering to professional guidance, climbers can safely adjust to high altitude and perform effectively throughout the expedition.

Altitude Sickness and Company Preparation

Altitude sickness is one of the most common challenges faced during high-altitude expeditions like Ama Dablam. It occurs when the body cannot adapt quickly to reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. Symptoms may include headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness, and shortness of breath. Without proper management, AMS can escalate into severe and life-threatening conditions such as HAPE or HACE.

To minimize these risks, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures a comprehensive acclimatization and health management plan for every participant.

Company Preparations and Safety Measures:
  1. Gradual Ascent and Acclimatization Schedule
    The Ama Dablam itinerary is carefully structured to allow adequate time for adaptation. The trek to Base Camp and subsequent climbs between camps are designed for slow and steady elevation gain, minimizing the risk of altitude-related complications.
  2. Experienced and Trained Guides
    All expedition leaders and Sherpa guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya are professionally trained in high-altitude first aid, rescue operations, and mountain safety. They can identify early symptoms of altitude sickness and take immediate action when necessary.
  3. Regular Health Monitoring
    Daily health checks are conducted throughout the trek and climb, including monitoring oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and overall physical condition. Any climber showing signs of AMS is given proper care, rest, or descent if needed.
  4. Medical Equipment and Oxygen Support
    The team carries essential medical equipment such as oxygen cylinders, pulse oximeters, first aid kits, and Gamow bags (portable altitude chambers) at Base Camp and higher camps. These tools are crucial for managing altitude-related emergencies.
  5. Emergency Evacuation Support
    In case of severe illness or injury, Alpine Club of Himalaya maintains arrangements for helicopter evacuation from Base Camp or lower camps to Kathmandu or the nearest medical center.
  6. Pre-Expedition Health Guidance
    Before the expedition, climbers receive detailed information on high-altitude preparation, including hydration strategies, nutrition, medication (such as Diamox), and early symptom recognition.
  7. Hydration and Nutrition Focus
    Proper diet and hydration are vital for maintaining strength and preventing altitude issues. The company’s skilled cooks prepare well-balanced meals rich in carbohydrates and fluids to ensure climbers stay energized and healthy throughout the expedition.

With these careful safety measures and experienced guidance from Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can approach the Ama Dablam Expedition with confidence, knowing that their health, safety, and acclimatization are professionally managed at every stage of the journey.

Why Ama Dablam Expedition?

The Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m / 22,349ft) is one of the most iconic and visually stunning climbing adventures in the Himalayas. Known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” Ama Dablam stands as a symbol of elegance, adventure, and technical challenge. Its sharp ridges and pyramid-shaped summit offer climbers one of the most beautiful and rewarding experiences in Nepal’s Everest region. Here are the main reasons why this expedition is a top choice among mountaineers worldwide:

1. Iconic and Aesthetic Peak
Ama Dablam is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Its graceful, steep ridges and perfect symmetry attract climbers and photographers alike. Reaching its summit is a proud achievement and a lifetime memory for any mountaineer.

2. Perfect Technical Challenge
The southwest ridge route offers a perfect blend of rock, ice, and snow climbing—making it an ideal mountain for those seeking a technically challenging but achievable Himalayan peak. Climbers use fixed ropes, traverse narrow ridges, and scale sections like the Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge, which test both skill and endurance.

3. Breathtaking Panoramic Views
From the summit, climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of the world’s highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Pumori. The panorama from Ama Dablam’s summit is among the finest in all of Nepal.

4. Rich Sherpa Culture and Scenic Trek
The expedition begins with a classic trek through the Everest region, passing vibrant Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche. Along the way, climbers experience warm Sherpa hospitality, visit ancient monasteries, and witness the deep-rooted Buddhist culture of the Khumbu Valley.

5. Professional Guidance and Safety
With Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers benefit from a highly experienced team of guides, Sherpas, and support staff who ensure safety, comfort, and success. The company handles all logistics—from permits and base camp setup to health monitoring and emergency planning—allowing climbers to focus on the adventure.

6. Ideal Step Toward Higher Peaks
Ama Dablam serves as an excellent preparation climb for those aspiring to tackle higher 8,000-meter mountains such as Everest, Lhotse, or Makalu. Its technical nature helps climbers refine their alpine skills in a true high-altitude environment.

7. Adventure of a Lifetime
Combining natural beauty, technical difficulty, cultural richness, and Himalayan grandeur, the Ama Dablam Expedition delivers one of the most fulfilling mountaineering experiences on earth.

With expert support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can take on this remarkable challenge safely and confidently, achieving not just a summit but a journey that embodies the very spirit of Himalayan adventure.

Comprehensive Guiding Services and Equipment

The Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m / 22,349ft) is a technically demanding climb that requires expert planning, professional guidance, and high-quality equipment. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides comprehensive expedition services to ensure climbers have a safe, comfortable, and well-supported experience while navigating the challenging high-altitude environment of Nepal’s Everest region.

Guiding and Support Services:

·       Professional Expedition Leaders and Sherpa Guides: Certified and experienced guides with a proven track record on 6,000m–8,000m peaks lead every expedition, providing expert route guidance, technical support, and safety oversight.

·       Climbing Support Team: Skilled Sherpas, porters, and high-altitude assistants manage logistics, carry loads, fix ropes, and set up camps to ensure smooth and efficient climbing operations.

·       High-Quality Base and High Camp Equipment: Spacious tents, insulated sleeping mats, kitchen and dining tents, and all essential camping gear are provided at Base Camp and higher camps to maximize comfort and safety.

·       Technical Climbing Equipment: The expedition supplies fixed ropes, anchors, ice screws, snow bars, ladders, and other shared technical gear. Personal gear such as crampons, harnesses, helmets, and ice axes can be arranged upon request.
Communication and Safety Equipment: Satellite phones, radios, and GPS systems maintain constant communication between Base Camp and climbing teams for coordinated and safe operations.

·       Medical Backup: First-aid kits, supplementary oxygen, and Gamow bags (portable altitude chambers) are available at Base Camp and higher camps for emergencies.
Logistics and Permits: All climbing permits, Sagarmatha National Park fees, and cargo arrangements are managed by Alpine Club of Himalaya, allowing climbers to focus entirely on the expedition.

Weather and Climate

Ama Dablam’s location in the Everest region creates a high-altitude Himalayan climate with cold nights, strong winds, and rapidly changing conditions.

Best Seasons:

·       Spring (April–May): Mild temperatures, stable weather, and clear skies make spring one of the most favorable climbing seasons. Snow conditions are generally reliable, and the trekking trails are lush and scenic.

·       Autumn (September–November): Post-monsoon clarity offers dry air, moderate temperatures, and spectacular mountain visibility, making it an excellent time for the climb.

Other Seasons:

·       Winter (December–February): Extremely cold with heavy snowfall and strong winds, making climbing risky and challenging.

·       Monsoon (June–August): Heavy rainfall and potential landslides reduce safety, visibility, and climbing feasibility.

·       Weather Challenges:
Even in the best seasons, climbers may face:
• Sudden snowstorms and strong winds at higher camps.
• Extreme cold above 6,000 meters.
• Whiteouts, reduced visibility, and unstable snow conditions.
• Risk of frostbite or hypothermia without proper precautions.

Alpine Club of Himalaya prepares climbers through acclimatization, high-quality cold-weather gear, and flexible schedules that prioritize safety over speed.

Environment and Eco-Friendly Practices

Ama Dablam is located in a fragile Himalayan ecosystem, rich in flora and fauna. Alpine Club of Himalaya follows eco-friendly practices to minimize environmental impact:

• Responsible waste management and disposal at all camps.

• Use of fuel-efficient stoves and minimal firewood consumption.

• Carrying non-biodegradable waste back to designated disposal points.

• Supporting local Sherpa communities through fair employment and sustainable tourism.

By climbing responsibly, participants help preserve the pristine beauty of the Khumbu region.

Safety and Security

  • Experienced Leadership: Certified guides with extensive Himalayan experience lead all expeditions, trained in high-altitude rescue and first aid.
  • Health Monitoring and Acclimatization: Daily checks for oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and overall health are conducted. Rest days are scheduled to prevent altitude sickness.
  • Emergency Communication: Satellite phones, radios, and GPS devices maintain constant communication between Base Camp and climbing teams.
  • Medical and Rescue Support: Oxygen cylinders, Gamow bags, and comprehensive first-aid kits are available at all camps. Pre-arranged helicopter evacuation is in place for emergencies.
  • Weather and Risk Assessment: Daily updates on weather and mountain conditions guide safe ascent schedules.
  • Trained Support Team: All Sherpas and staff are skilled in high-altitude first aid, rope rescue, and emergency response.
  • Permits and Insurance: Climbers are required to have comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude rescue, while all climbing permits and legal documentation are handled by the company.

Team Composition for the Expedition

  • Expedition Leader / Guide: Oversees safety, route decisions, and overall expedition management.
  • High-Altitude Sherpa Climbers: Assist with camp setup, rope fixing, and load carrying; each climber is typically supported by a Sherpa.
  • Base Camp Manager / Sirdar: Coordinates logistics, supplies, and communication between camps and the support team.
  • Cook and Kitchen Staff: Prepare nutritious meals to maintain climbers’ energy and aid acclimatization.
  • Porters and Support Crew: Carry gear and supplies during the approach trek and throughout the expedition.
  • Medical Officer / First-Aid Personnel (on larger teams): Provides emergency care and monitors altitude-related health issues.
  • Kathmandu Operations Team: Manages permits, flight arrangements, and emergency coordination from the company office

Transportation

  • Flights: Kathmandu to Lukla provides stunning aerial views of the Himalayas and quick access to the Everest trail.
  • Trekking to Base Camp: From Lukla, a multi-day trek passes through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche before arriving at Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m).
  • Porters and Local Support: Porters carry expedition gear while climbers carry personal backpacks, making the trek safer and more efficient.

With professional guidance, technical support, and well-organized logistics from Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can focus entirely on the challenge and beauty of Ama Dablam, confident in their safety, comfort, and preparation throughout the expedition.

Meals

During the Ama Dablam Expedition, climbers are provided with full board meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) at Base Camp and higher camps. The meals are high-energy and nutritious, designed to support endurance, acclimatization, and recovery at high altitude. Along the trekking route, tea houses serve a variety of local Nepalese and continental dishes. Additionally, snacks, energy bars, and hot drinks are supplied during climbing rotations and summit pushes to maintain energy levels.

Drinking Water

Safe drinking water is available throughout the expedition. Water is boiled, filtered, or treated with purification tablets before consumption to ensure safety. Climbers are encouraged to stay well-hydrated, which is essential to prevent altitude sickness and maintain physical performance. Extra water is carried by guides and support staff to higher camps where natural sources are limited.

Accommodation

Accommodation varies by location:

·       Kathmandu: Comfortable hotels on a bed-and-breakfast (B/B) basis before and after the expedition.

·       Trekking Route to Base Camp: Tea houses and lodges provide clean and simple lodging along the trail.

·       Base Camp and Higher Camps: Fully equipped expedition tents, including insulated sleeping mats and dining tents, are set up and managed by Alpine Club of Himalaya.

These arrangements ensure climbers are well-fed, hydrated, and rested, supporting performance, acclimatization, and safety throughout the Ama Dablam Expedition.

Guides, Porters, and Mules

The Ama Dablam Expedition is supported by a highly skilled and experienced team of guides, Sherpas, porters, and pack animals to ensure climbers have a safe and smooth experience. Certified guides with extensive Himalayan climbing experience lead the expedition, providing technical guidance, route navigation, and safety oversight at all stages of the climb. High-altitude Sherpas assist climbers during the technical sections, including rope fixing, camp setup, load carrying, and summit rotations, offering invaluable support that enhances safety and efficiency on challenging terrain.

Porters are employed along the approach trekking route to carry personal gear, food supplies, and expedition equipment, reducing the physical burden on climbers so they can conserve energy for high-altitude climbing. In addition, mules are used in lower sections of the trail where terrain allows, carrying heavier loads such as kitchen equipment, fuel, and base camp supplies. This combination of human and animal support ensures that climbers can focus on the technical demands of Ama Dablam without logistical distractions. The teamwork between guides, Sherpas, porters, and mules is a crucial factor in the success and safety of the expedition

WiFi and Electricity

Connectivity and power are limited in the Everest region due to its remote high-altitude location. In Kathmandu, hotels and lodges provide reliable electricity and WiFi, allowing climbers to prepare, communicate, and stay in touch before starting their trek. Along the trekking route to Base Camp, some tea houses offer basic charging facilities for electronic devices, though availability is intermittent and often comes at a small fee.

At Ama Dablam Base Camp and higher camps, power is generated primarily through solar panels or portable generators, mainly for essential communications, weather monitoring, and limited device charging. Climbers are strongly advised to carry high-capacity power banks to ensure their phones, GPS devices, or cameras remain operational throughout the expedition. While connectivity is limited, this allows climbers to fully immerse themselves in the natural beauty and high-altitude experience without distractions.

Permits and Requirements

Climbing Ama Dablam requires several permits and compliance with local regulations, all of which are handled professionally by Alpine Club of Himalaya.

  • Ama Dablam Climbing Permit: Issued by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, this official permit is mandatory for all climbers.
  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: Required for trekking and climbing in the Everest region, this permit ensures climbers contribute to conservation efforts and follow park regulations.
  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Fee: Local entry permits or area fees are required for trekking through villages and protected zones.
  • Insurance: Comprehensive travel and medical insurance covering high-altitude rescue, helicopter evacuation, and medical emergencies is mandatory for all participants.

Alpine Club of Himalaya manages all documentation, payments, and official processes, allowing climbers to focus entirely on training, acclimatization, and the climb itself. By handling these administrative requirements professionally, the company ensures compliance with local laws while providing peace of mind to climbers. These permits not only allow safe access to the mountain but also support local communities, conservation initiatives, and the sustainable development of Nepal’s Everest region.

Online Briefing

Before the Ama Dablam Expedition begins, Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a comprehensive online briefing for all participants. This session covers essential topics such as expedition itinerary, high-altitude safety, acclimatization strategies, technical climbing skills, equipment requirements, and weather considerations. Participants also receive guidance on packing, nutrition, and fitness preparation, ensuring they are fully informed and ready for the journey. The online briefing allows climbers to ask questions directly to the expedition leaders, clarify doubts, and familiarize themselves with logistical arrangements before departing for Nepal. This preparation step enhances safety, confidence, and overall expedition readiness.

Last-Minute Booking

For those making last-minute decisions, Alpine Club of Himalaya accommodates late bookings based on availability of permits, guides, and logistical support. The company ensures that even short-notice participants receive full expedition support, including permits, flights, accommodation, gear arrangements, and technical guidance. Climbers opting for last-minute bookings are advised to have their fitness, equipment, and insurance prepared in advance. Despite limited lead time, the company’s experienced team manages all logistics efficiently, ensuring participants can join the Ama Dablam Expedition safely and without compromise on preparation or safety.

Final Notes

Before beginning the Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m/22,334ft), climbers should ensure that all personal gear and equipment are thoroughly tested, properly fitted, and comfortable. High-altitude climbing demands reliable clothing, footwear, and technical gear capable of withstanding extreme weather conditions, sub-zero temperatures, and physically demanding terrain. Untested or inappropriate gear can compromise both safety and performance, making proper preparation essential.

Alpine Club of Himalaya provides several key expedition facilities, including Base Camp tents, high-altitude ropes, cooking facilities, and select climbing hardware. Climbers should verify with the company which items are included in the package and ensure that their personal gear complements the provided equipment. Adequate preparation, physical fitness, mental readiness, and attention to gear details greatly enhance the chances of a safe and successful summit.

Participants are encouraged to maintain hydration, nutrition, and proper acclimatization practices throughout the expedition. In addition, climbers should follow the instructions and guidance of the licensed Alpine Club of Himalaya guides and Sherpa team, prioritize safety at all times, and remain flexible in response to weather and mountain conditions.

Cancellation Policy

Cancellation by Participant

Participants who need to cancel their Ama Dablam expedition should notify Alpine Club of Himalaya immediately. Refunds are processed according to the following schedule:

  • 60 days or more before departure: 20% of the total expedition cost retained as an administrative fee.
  • 30 to 59 days before departure: 50% of the total expedition cost retained.
  • Less than 30 days before departure: Full payment is non-refundable.
Cancellation by Organizer

If Alpine Club of Himalaya cancels the expedition due to unforeseen circumstances such as extreme weather, natural disasters, or safety concerns, participants are entitled to:

  • A full refund of all paid fees, or
  • The option to reschedule the expedition for a later date.

Force Majeure

Alpine Club of Himalaya is not responsible for additional expenses arising from force majeure events, including natural disasters, political unrest, strikes, or health emergencies. Participants are strongly encouraged to obtain comprehensive travel insurance covering unforeseen circumstances, including high-altitude rescue and evacuation, for complete protection.

At the Alpine Club of Himalaya, your safety is our highest priority. We reserve the right to cancel the trip or alter the itinerary whenever necessary to ensure the well-being of all participants. Given the unpredictable nature of remote mountainous regions, various factors—such as adverse weather conditions, the health of group members, and natural disasters—can necessitate these changes. In such situations, we ask for your understanding and full cooperation with the designated group leader appointed by our team. Rest assured, we will strive to adhere to the planned itinerary as closely as possible while prioritizing your safety and comfort. Your trust and collaboration are vital as we navigate the challenges of high-altitude expeditions together.

Detail Itineraries

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, you will be greeted by our representative from Alpine Club of Himalaya and transferred to your hotel. After check-in, take some time to rest and recover from your flight. Kathmandu, situated at 1,350m (4,430ft), is the gateway to the Himalayas and offers an introduction to Nepalese culture, bustling streets, and historic architecture. In the evening, you can explore local markets or simply relax at the hotel in preparation for the expedition.

Duration

Arrival day

Accommodation

Hotel in Kathmandu

Meals

Breakfast not included, Lunch & Dinner on your own

Trip Highlight

  • Stunning ascent of Ama Dablam, one of Nepal’s most beautiful and technically striking peaks.
  • Perfect blend of adventure, culture, and natural beauty in the Everest region.
  • Scenic mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, offering spectacular views of the Himalayas.
  • Trek through famous Sherpa villages such as Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche.
  • Close cultural encounters with the Sherpa community and visits to ancient monasteries.
  • Breathtaking panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and other surrounding peaks from the summit.
  • Gradual acclimatization through the classic Everest Base Camp trail for better altitude adaptation.
  • Technical climbing experience with fixed ropes, steep ridges, ice, and rock sections.
  • Professional guidance and full expedition support from Alpine Club of Himalaya.
  • Fully equipped base camp with comfortable tents, nutritious meals, and safety management.
  • Rewarding sense of accomplishment upon standing atop one of the most iconic mountains in the world.

Cost Include and Exclude

  • Airport transfers for both domestic and international flights as per the itinerary, including assistance at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu.

  • Four nights’ accommodation at Yak and Yeti Hotel or a similar standard in Kathmandu on a bed and breakfast (B&B) basis.

  • Services of an experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide throughout the trekking and expedition period.

  • Scheduled Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu flights for all climbing members, Sherpa guides, liaison officers, and kitchen staff.

  • Comprehensive trekking and mountaineering equipment, including kitchen tents, storage tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils at Base Camp and Camp Two.

  • Full support of chef and kitchen assistant at Ama Dablam Base Camp.

  • Meals: Three meals daily (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) with tea/coffee during trekking in tea houses, lodges, and hotels. Fresh three meals daily at Base Camp and Camp Two.

  • Baggage allowance of 30 kg per person during trekking to Base Camp, carried by porters or yaks.

  • Daily weather report services from a Seattle, Washington-based meteorological company.

  • Trekking permits, including Everest National Park entry fees and TIMS (Trekking Information Management System) card.

  • Expedition royalty and climbing permit issued by the Government of Nepal for Ama Dablam (6,812m).

  • Government royalties and fees applicable in Nepal.

  • Wages, equipment, and medical and accident insurance for all staff involved during trekking and climbing.

  • Equipment allowances and wages for cooks, kitchen staff, and government liaison officers.

  • First-aid medical kits for both climbers and staff.

  • Satellite phone carried by guides, available to clients at $3 USD per minute.

  • Heater provided at Base Camp for dining facilities.

  • Emergency oxygen, masks, and regulators available upon request (additional charges apply).

  • Individual expedition tents for all members at Base Camp.

  • Solar panels for lighting and battery charging.

  • Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chambers) for high-altitude safety.

  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high-altitude kitchen staff.

  • Assistance with cargo clearance and duties.

  • Freshly prepared meals at Base Camp.

  • Trekking and climbing maps of Ama Dablam.

  • Generator for backup lighting and charging electronic devices.

  • Transportation of food supplies from Kathmandu to Base Camp via cargo to Lukla and porters/yaks to Base Camp.

  • Service charges and government taxes levied in Nepal.

  • Complete pre-departure information and flight reconfirmation assistance.

  • Visa extension procedures, if required.

  • Farewell dinner in a traditional Nepali restaurant with cultural program in Kathmandu.

  • Alpine Club of Himalaya T-shirt and duffel bags

Equipment and Packaging List

Expedition Gear and Packing List

1. Clothing

Proper layering is essential for high-altitude climbing. Recommended clothing includes:

  • Base layers: Thermal top and bottom (moisture-wicking)
  • Mid-layers: Fleece jacket or insulated down jacket
  • Outer layers: Waterproof and windproof shell jacket and pants (Gore-Tex or equivalent)
  • Insulated down suit for summit push
  • Trekking pants and shirts for lower-altitude trekking
  • Softshell jacket and pants for flexibility on climbs
  • Gloves: Lightweight liner gloves, warm insulated gloves, and waterproof outer gloves
  • Hat/Beanie for warmth
  • Balaclava or neck gaiter for face protection
  • Sun hat and sunglasses for high-altitude sun exposure
  • Trekking socks and high-altitude socks (several pairs)
  • Gaiters to protect boots from snow and debris

2. Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots (double-layered, insulated)
  • Trekking boots for approach and lower-altitude trekking
  • Camp shoes or sandals for evenings at Base Camp

3. Climbing Equipment

Alpine Club of Himalaya provides group technical gear, but personal items include:

  • Climbing harness
  • Crampons (compatible with boots)
  • Helmet
  • Ice axe
  • Ascender (jumar) and descender
  • Carabiners, slings, and prusiks
  • Personal climbing ropes (if required)
  • Trekking poles for approach trek

4. Camping Equipment

Provided at Base Camp and high camps:

  • Individual expedition tent
  • Insulated sleeping mat
  • Sleeping bag rated for extreme cold
  • Personal headlamp with extra batteries
  • Water bottles and hydration system (minimum 2–3 liters)

5. Accessories

  • Sunglasses with high UV protection (category 4 recommended)
  • Sunscreen (high SPF for face and lips)
  • Lip balm
  • Personal first-aid kit (bandages, blister treatment, painkillers, altitude medication like Diamox)
  • Personal toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, biodegradable soap)
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Camera or smartphone for photography
  • Notebook or journal

6. Optional Items

  • Satellite phone (available from guides at $3/min)
  • Personal water purification tablets
  • Lightweight camp towel
  • Extra dry bags for organizing gear and keeping items dry
  • Snacks, energy bars, or personal nutrition

7. Packing Tips

  • Use a large duffel bag for main expedition gear (up to 30kg)
  • Carry a daypack (30–40L) for trekking and approach hikes
  • Pack items in dry sacks or waterproof bags
  • Keep essential items like medications, documents, and electronics in your carry-on bag

Required Documents

For a smooth and hassle-free Ama Dablam expedition, climbers must prepare and carry the following documents:

1. Passport

  • A valid passport with at least six months’ validity from the date of entry into Nepal.
  • Ensure that there are enough blank pages for visas, permits, and immigration stamps.

2. Nepal Visa

  • Tourist visa for Nepal, obtainable on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport or online (e-visa).
  • Required documents: Passport, visa fee (cash in USD or local currency), and a passport-sized photo.
  • Visa duration: 15, 30, or 90 days depending on your plan.

3. Climbing Permits

  • Ama Dablam climbing permit issued by the Government of Nepal.
  • Everest National Park Entry Permit (Sagamartha National Park Permit) for the Khumbu region.
  • TIMS (Trekking Information Management System) card, mandatory for all trekkers in Nepal.

4. Travel and Rescue Insurance

  • Proof of comprehensive travel insurance covering high-altitude trekking, mountaineering, medical emergencies, and helicopter evacuation.
  • Alpine Club of Himalaya recommends carrying a copy for verification.

5. Medical and Health Documents

  • Recent medical certificate confirming fitness for high-altitude trekking and climbing.
  • Proof of vaccinations (if applicable) or any ongoing medication prescriptions.
  • List of personal medical history and emergency contacts.

6. Flight and Travel Documents

  • Copies of international flight tickets to and from Nepal.
  • Domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu) will be arranged by Alpine Club of Himalaya, but it is recommended to carry copies.

7. Photographs

  • 4–6 passport-sized photos, required for permits and visa processing.

8. Expedition Agreement and Waiver

  • Signed expedition contract/waiver form provided by Alpine Club of Himalaya, acknowledging risks and agreeing to company terms.

9. Emergency Contacts

  • List of family members or emergency contacts to provide to the expedition team.

Important Notes:

  • Carry both original and photocopies of all documents.
  • Keep documents in a waterproof folder or pouch to prevent damage during trekking and climbing.
  • Some permits and permits may require pre-submission of scanned copies before departure; Alpine Club of Himalaya will guide clients accordingly.

Note: Alpine Club of Himalaya provides base camp tents, dining tents, cooking equipment, group technical gear, and porter support. Participants are expected to bring personal climbing gear, clothing, and essentials listed above.

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