
Destination
Nepal
Duration
33 Days
Best Weather
March, April, may, September, October & November
Max Altitude
7246
Accommodation
Hotel, Teahouse, and Camp
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Transportation
Private vehicle / Flights
Group
Min. 1 Pax
Difficulty
Strenuous
Activities
Peak Climbing
Overview
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition offers one of Nepal’s most rewarding mountaineering adventures, combining remote wilderness, cultural richness, and the thrill of high-altitude climbing. Standing tall at 7,246 meters (23,772 feet), Putha Hiunchuli, also known as Dhaulagiri VI, is the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri range. This magnificent mountain marks the dramatic end of the snow-capped Himalayas, with Annapurna South and Ganesh Himal lying further to the east. Unlike the more frequented giants of Nepal, Putha Hiunchuli remains a rarely climbed gem, making it an ideal choice for climbers seeking an off-the-beaten-path expedition filled with raw natural beauty and genuine adventure.
Located in the remote Dolpa region, often referred to as Nepal’s “Wild West,” this area rose to fame through Peter Matthiessen’s iconic book The Snow Leopard. The journey to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp itself is a remarkable adventure—passing through rugged landscapes, traditional villages, and untouched highlands that few trekkers or climbers ever see. This untouched setting provides an authentic Himalayan experience where nature, culture, and solitude come together in perfect harmony.
Putha Hiunchuli offers two primary climbing routes: a steep, technical ridge first attempted by Japanese climbers in the early 1970s, and a more gradual northern slope averaging 35°, which provides a safer and more accessible ascent for experienced mountaineers. Alpine Club of Himalaya leads its expeditions via this northern route, ensuring a secure and well-managed climb with professional guidance, high-quality equipment, and a strong focus on safety and acclimatization.
The adventure begins with two scenic mountain flights—from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, and then onward to Juphal. From there, a six-day trek leads to Base Camp (4,575m/15,009ft), offering a perfect balance between adventure and acclimatization. The trekking route passes through remote valleys, alpine meadows, and culturally rich Magar and Dolpo villages, giving participants a unique opportunity to experience local traditions and breathtaking landscapes.
While the Putha Hiunchuli climb is considered moderate in technical difficulty, it requires strong physical endurance and mental resilience. The route involves long days of ascent between camps, challenging weather conditions, and high-altitude exposure. Therefore, it is recommended for climbers with prior experience on at least two 6,000m peaks, multiple high-pass treks, and formal mountaineering training.
This 33-day expedition with Alpine Club of Himalaya is designed for serious climbers aiming to summit a 7,000m peak in a remote and pristine environment. It offers the ideal balance of challenge, safety, and adventure—perfect for those looking to expand their high-altitude mountaineering experience and embrace the spirit of Nepal’s wild western Himalayas.
Facts of the Trip – Putha Hiunchuli Expedition (7,246m / 23,772ft)
Highest Access: 7,246m / 23,772ft
Duration: 33–37 Days
Coordinates: 28°44'50"N / 83°08'55"E
Country: Nepal
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Accommodation: Tourist standard to five-star hotels in Kathmandu (as requested); tea house and camping during the trek and climb
Transportation: Car, Jeep, and Domestic Flights
Major Activity: Trekking and Mountaineering
Culture: Tibetan and Sherpa Influences
Climbing Route: North Face
First Ascent: 1954 by Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa
Group Size: 2–10 People per group
Location: Dhaulagiri Himal Range, Dolpa Region
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Peu Difficile (Easy) – Moderate technical difficulty
Meals: Bed & Breakfast plan in Kathmandu; Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner during the trekking and climbing period
Best Season: Spring (April–May) and Autumn (September–October)
Included Activity: Scenic flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Juphal
Mode of Travel: Combination of Tea House and Camping
Himalayan Sights: Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Manaslu, and Mt. Fishtail (Machhapuchhre)
Organized by Alpine Club of Himalaya, this expedition offers the perfect combination of remote adventure, cultural exploration, and technical mountaineering in one of Nepal’s most untouched Himalayan regions.
Trekking to Base Camp: Days 1–6
The adventure begins with scenic flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and then to Juphal, followed by a six-day trek to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4,575m / 15,009ft). The trek passes through pristine Dolpa valleys, high alpine meadows, and traditional villages, giving climbers a chance to experience the culture of Tibetan and Magar communities. Villages like Dho and Dunai showcase local traditions, while the surrounding landscapes provide spectacular views of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges. This gradual trek is designed to aid acclimatization, ensuring that climbers are well-prepared for the summit attempt.
Climbing Putha Hiunchuli: Days 7–27
The climb to the summit of Putha Hiunchuli is conducted via the northern route, considered safer and less technically demanding than the steep ridge. This phase is ideal for climbers with prior experience on 6,000-meter peaks and high-altitude treks. The ascent is physically demanding and requires mental focus due to long days of climbing, glacier travel, and snow slopes averaging 35°.
Base Camp to Camp I:
The route begins at Base Camp, moving across moraine and snow slopes toward Camp I. Climbers navigate rocky terrain and glacial ridges while taking in panoramic views of surrounding peaks like Annapurna South, Ganesh Himal, and Kanjiroba.
Camp I to Camp II:
From Camp I, the trail ascends gradually along the northern flank, crossing snowfields and gentle ridges. Camp II serves as a key resting point for acclimatization and preparation for higher camps.
Camp II to Camp III:
The climb from Camp II involves traversing icy slopes and moderate snow ridges. Climbers encounter steeper sections that require careful use of crampons and ice axes, with Camp III situated at a higher elevation for the final summit push.
Camp III to Summit:
The final ascent from Camp III involves navigating snow and ice slopes, gradually approaching the summit. The northern route provides a manageable slope while offering breathtaking views of the Dhaulagiri Himal and the remote Dolpa wilderness. Reaching the summit of Putha Hiunchuli rewards climbers with panoramic Himalayan vistas and a profound sense of accomplishment in one of Nepal’s least-visited regions.
Descent: Returning to Juphal and Kathmandu
After celebrating the summit, climbers descend via the same route to Camp III, Camp II, and Camp I, before returning to Base Camp. The trek back to Juphal allows for reflection on the incredible scenery and cultural experiences encountered along the way. From Juphal, scenic flights take participants to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu, concluding the expedition.
Best Time for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
The best time to climb Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) is during the spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) seasons.
- Spring (April–May):
This is the most popular and favorable season for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition. The weather is generally stable with clear skies, mild temperatures at lower elevations, and excellent visibility at high altitudes. Snow conditions are also ideal for climbing, making it safer and more enjoyable. The surrounding valleys bloom with wildflowers, adding beauty to the approach trek through Dolpa. - Autumn (September–October):
The post-monsoon months offer another excellent window for climbing. The air is crisp and clear, providing superb mountain views and comfortable trekking conditions. The trails are dry, and the weather remains stable, minimizing the risks of heavy snowfall or storms. This period also provides rich cultural experiences as many local festivals take place in the Dolpa region.
Both these seasons provide the best combination of stable weather, good visibility, and favorable climbing conditions, ensuring a higher success rate and a safer expedition experience with Alpine Club of Himalaya.
Difficulty Level
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition (7,246m) is considered a moderate to challenging climb, depending on individual experience and preparation. While the northern route followed by Alpine Club of Himalaya is less technical compared to other 7,000m peaks, it still involves climbing on snow and ice slopes of around 30–35°, using fixed ropes, and enduring long ascents between camps. The real challenge lies in the altitude, cold temperatures, and remote location of the Dolpa region, which requires both physical strength and mental endurance.
Trekkers must be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day for several consecutive days while carrying a personal backpack. The high camps above Base Camp involve steep terrain, glacier crossings, and exposure to extreme weather conditions. Therefore, Putha Hiunchuli is best suited for climbers who already have experience with high-altitude trekking or previous climbs above 6,000 meters.
With proper fitness, technical readiness, and professional guidance from the Alpine Club of Himalaya team, climbers can safely and successfully reach the summit of this stunning Himalayan peak.
Physical Fitness and Requirements
Climbing Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) demands excellent physical fitness, endurance, and mental determination. Although the expedition follows a non-technical route via the northern flank, the altitude, weather, and long approach trek make it a serious high-altitude challenge. Participants should be in top physical condition and capable of carrying out sustained effort for several weeks in remote mountain terrain.
To join the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition with Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers should:
- Have prior experience climbing at least two peaks above 6,000 meters.
- Be familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, harness, and fixed rope techniques.
- Have completed multiple high-altitude treks or high-pass routes (above 5,000m).
- Be free from serious health issues such as high blood pressure, diabetes, or chronic respiratory problems.
- Possess a strong mental attitude, teamwork spirit, and the ability to handle demanding mountain conditions.
The expedition involves long days of trekking, high camp setups, and climbing on snow and ice terrain, often in cold and windy conditions. Proper fitness and preparation significantly increase the chances of a safe and successful summit.
Preparations and Training
Proper preparation is key to succeeding on Putha Hiunchuli. Since the climb requires both endurance and technical knowledge, participants are encouraged to begin their training at least 4–6 months before the expedition.
Recommended physical and technical preparations include:
- Cardiovascular training: Engage in running, swimming, cycling, or hiking for at least 4–5 days a week to build stamina and lung capacity.
- Strength training: Focus on building core, leg, and upper-body strength through squats, lunges, deadlifts, and resistance exercises.
- Endurance hikes: Take long hikes with a loaded backpack (10–15kg) to simulate trekking conditions and improve endurance.
- Altitude exposure: If possible, participate in other high-altitude climbs or treks to get used to thin air and acclimatization processes.
- Technical skills practice: Refresh or enhance mountaineering skills such as walking with crampons, rope handling, and self-arrest techniques on snow or ice.
- Mental preparation: Develop patience, resilience, and focus—essential qualities for handling extended stays at altitude and unpredictable weather conditions.
With the expert guidance and logistical support of Alpine Club of Himalaya, along with adequate training and preparation, climbers can confidently take on the challenge of summiting Putha Hiunchuli, one of Nepal’s most remote and rewarding 7,000-meter peaks.
Acclimatization
Acclimatization is a crucial part of the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition and is carefully built into the itinerary by Alpine Club of Himalaya. The trek to Base Camp at 4,575m takes around six days, allowing your body to gradually adjust to the thinning air. Additional rest days and slow ascents between camps help prevent altitude-related issues and ensure a safer, more enjoyable climb.
During acclimatization days, climbers rest, hydrate, and take short hikes to higher altitudes before returning to sleep at lower elevations. This gradual process helps increase oxygen efficiency in the body and prepares climbers for higher camps and summit push.
Why You Need Acclimatization
Acclimatization is essential because, as altitude increases, the oxygen level in the air decreases, making it harder for the body to function normally. Without proper adaptation, climbers risk developing Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or more severe conditions like High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)—all of which can be life-threatening.
Proper acclimatization allows the body to:
- Produce more red blood cells to carry oxygen efficiently.
- Gradually adapt to lower oxygen levels and reduced air pressure.
- Prevent altitude sickness and related complications.
- Maintain energy levels and improve performance at higher elevations.
- Increase the overall success rate of the expedition.
By following a well-planned ascent schedule, staying hydrated, eating nutritious meals, and listening to your guides, climbers can safely adjust to the altitude. The experienced team at Alpine Club of Himalaya prioritizes acclimatization and health monitoring throughout the expedition to ensure a safe and successful climb to the summit of Putha Hiunchuli.
Altitude Sickness and Preparation by the Company
Altitude sickness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), is one of the most common challenges faced by climbers during high-altitude expeditions like Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m). It occurs when the body fails to adapt quickly enough to reduced oxygen levels at high elevations. Symptoms may include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, loss of appetite, and shortness of breath. If not managed properly, AMS can progress into more severe and life-threatening conditions such as High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE).
To minimize the risk of altitude sickness, Alpine Club of Himalaya prioritizes a well-structured acclimatization and health management plan throughout the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition.
Company Preparations and Safety Measures
1. Gradual Ascent and Acclimatization Schedule
The expedition itinerary is carefully designed to allow enough time for acclimatization. The six-day trek to Base Camp and scheduled rest days give climbers time to adjust to altitude gradually. The ascent from one camp to another is done in a controlled and steady manner to ensure safety.
2. Experienced and Trained Guides
All climbing guides and Sherpa leaders from Alpine Club of Himalaya are professionally trained in high-altitude first aid and rescue techniques. They are skilled at identifying early symptoms of altitude sickness and take immediate action if a climber shows any signs of distress.
3. Regular Health Monitoring
Throughout the expedition, the team conducts daily health checks, including monitoring oxygen levels, heart rate, and overall condition of each participant. Any signs of AMS are treated promptly, and climbers are advised to rest, descend, or use supplementary oxygen if required.
4. Use of Medical Equipment and Oxygen Support
The company provides all essential medical equipment such as oxygen cylinders, oximeters, first aid kits, and Gamow bags (portable altitude chambers) at high camps and Base Camp. These tools are vital for emergency response and altitude management.
5. Emergency Evacuation Support
In case of severe altitude sickness or other medical emergencies, Alpine Club of Himalaya maintains arrangements for immediate helicopter evacuation from lower camps or Base Camp to Kathmandu or the nearest medical facility.
6. Pre-Expedition Guidance
Before the expedition begins, climbers receive detailed information on how to prepare for altitude—covering topics like hydration, nutrition, medication (such as Diamox), and recognizing early symptoms of altitude sickness.
7. Focus on Hydration and Nutrition
Proper hydration and a balanced diet are crucial for high-altitude performance. The company’s expedition cooks prepare nutritious meals rich in carbohydrates and fluids to maintain energy and reduce altitude-related fatigue.
Why Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition (7,246m/23,772ft) is a perfect opportunity for mountaineers looking to experience a true high-altitude climb in one of Nepal’s most remote and unspoiled regions. Known as Dhaulagiri VI, Putha Hiunchuli is the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri range and offers a rare blend of wilderness, cultural richness, and achievable climbing challenges. Here’s why this expedition stands out among other Himalayan climbs:
1. Rarely Climbed and Peaceful Route
Unlike the busy peaks of Everest and Annapurna, Putha Hiunchuli remains largely untouched by mass tourism. The solitude of the Dolpa region ensures a peaceful and authentic Himalayan experience far from crowded trails.
2. Ideal for Aspiring 7,000m Climbers
The northern route of Putha Hiunchuli, used by Alpine Club of Himalaya, is less technical and ideal for climbers transitioning from 6,000m peaks to higher altitudes. The average slope of 30–35° offers a manageable yet challenging ascent suitable for moderately experienced mountaineers.
3. Untouched Beauty of Dolpa Region
Located in western Nepal’s remote Dolpa district, the route passes through traditional Magar and Tibetan villages, high pastures, and stunning mountain landscapes. This region, often called Nepal’s “Wild West,” offers both cultural depth and natural magnificence.
4. Excellent Acclimatization and Trekking Route
The approach to Base Camp involves a gradual six-day trek, providing ample time for acclimatization. This slow ascent increases summit success rates while allowing climbers to enjoy the scenic beauty and cultural encounters along the way.
5. Safer Climbing Route with Alpine Club of Himalaya
The expedition follows the northern flank—considered the safest and most reliable route to the summit. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides professional Sherpa guides, high-quality equipment, and full logistical support, ensuring a safe and well-managed climb.
6. Breathtaking Mountain Panoramas
From the summit and throughout the trek, climbers are rewarded with stunning views of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Manaslu, Mt. Fishtail, and other snow-capped peaks of western Nepal.
7. A True Himalayan Adventure
Reaching Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp itself is a remarkable journey—requiring two scenic flights and a trek through wild terrain rarely visited by outsiders. It’s an expedition that combines adventure, exploration, and achievement in one unforgettable experience.
8. Perfect Balance of Challenge and Reward
While the climb demands endurance and skill, it doesn’t require extreme technical ability, making it accessible for dedicated mountaineers aiming to conquer their first 7,000m peak.
With the expert guidance and full logistical support of Alpine Club of Himalaya, the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition offers the ideal balance between adventure, safety, and cultural immersion—an exceptional choice for those who dream of standing atop a majestic Himalayan summit in one of Nepal’s most untouched regions.
Comprehensive Guiding Services and Equipment
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition (7,246m) is a demanding adventure that requires expert planning, professional support, and top-quality equipment. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides complete guiding and logistical services to ensure climbers have the best possible experience while maintaining safety and comfort in remote mountain conditions.
Services provided include:
- Professional Expedition Leader and Sherpa Guides: Experienced, government-licensed mountain guides and Sherpas with proven success records on 7,000m and 8,000m peaks.
- Climbing Support Team: Skilled cooks, porters, and high-altitude support staff ensure smooth logistics throughout the trek and climb.
- High-Quality Camping Gear: Spacious tents, insulated sleeping mats, kitchen tents, dining tents, and all necessary camping equipment at Base Camp and higher camps.
- Climbing Equipment: Fixed ropes, anchors, ice screws, snow bars, and group technical gear are provided. Personal climbing gear such as harness, crampons, helmet, and ice axe can be arranged upon request.
- Communication and Safety Equipment: Satellite phones, radios, and GPS systems for continuous communication between teams and the support base.
- Medical Backup: Comprehensive first-aid kits, Gamow bag (portable altitude chamber), and oxygen cylinders are available at Base Camp for emergencies.
- Logistics and Permits: All climbing permits, national park fees, and cargo arrangements are handled by Alpine Club of Himalaya, allowing climbers to focus entirely on their expedition.
Weather and Climate
The Dolpa region lies in the rain-shadow area of the Dhaulagiri range, giving it a unique and dry Himalayan climate. The weather in Putha Hiunchuli varies significantly depending on altitude and season.
- Spring (April–May):
Mild temperatures, stable weather, and excellent visibility make spring one of the best times to climb. Snow conditions are favorable, and the lower valleys are lush and colorful. - Autumn (September–October):
Clear skies, dry air, and moderate temperatures characterize the autumn season. Post-monsoon freshness offers spectacular visibility and crisp mountain panoramas. - Winter (November–March):
Extremely cold and harsh, with heavy snowfall and strong winds, making expeditions difficult and unsafe. - Summer (June–August):
Monsoon rains affect lower elevations, and the risk of landslides increases, making it less suitable for climbing.
Weather Challenges
Weather at high altitudes can be unpredictable and change rapidly. Even during the best climbing seasons, climbers may face challenges such as:
- Sudden snowstorms and strong winds at higher camps.
- Extremely low temperatures, especially above 6,000 meters.
- Risk of whiteouts, reduced visibility, and unstable snow conditions.
- Potential for frostbite or hypothermia if proper precautions are not taken.
Alpine Club of Himalaya prepares climbers for these challenges through careful acclimatization, high-quality cold-weather gear, and flexible climbing schedules that prioritize safety over speed.
Environment
The Putha Hiunchuli region is part of Nepal’s remote and ecologically fragile Himalayan ecosystem. The area is rich in biodiversity, including blue sheep, Himalayan tahr, snow leopards, and various alpine plants. To preserve this pristine environment, Alpine Club of Himalaya strictly follows Leave No Trace principles and promotes eco-friendly climbing practices.
Environmental initiatives include:
- Responsible waste management and disposal at all camps.
- Using fuel-efficient stoves and minimizing firewood use.
- Carrying all non-biodegradable waste back to designated disposal sites.
- Supporting local communities through fair employment and sustainable tourism practices.
By climbing responsibly, participants contribute to the long-term conservation of Dolpa’s untouched natural beauty.
Weather Forecast
Before and during the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, Alpine Club of Himalaya monitors detailed weather forecasts from trusted meteorological services to ensure informed decision-making during the climb. Regular updates help the team identify the best summit window and avoid dangerous conditions such as heavy snowfall or strong winds.
Satellite communication allows the Base Camp and climbing team to receive real-time weather reports, ensuring timely adjustments to the climbing plan for safety and success.
Through a combination of expert guidance, reliable forecasts, and flexible planning, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that climbers face the mountain with confidence, preparation, and maximum safety.
Safety and Security
Safety and security are the top priorities during the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition (7,246m). Climbing in a remote and high-altitude region like Dolpa requires careful coordination, risk management, and constant monitoring. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures every participant’s safety through professional planning, experienced leadership, and advanced safety measures at every stage of the expedition.
Key Safety Measures:
- Experienced Leadership: All expeditions are led by highly trained and licensed climbing guides who have years of experience on 7,000m and 8,000m Himalayan peaks. They are certified in mountaineering, rescue operations, and high-altitude first aid.
- Health and Acclimatization Monitoring: Regular health checks are conducted to track climbers’ oxygen saturation, pulse rate, and overall condition. Extra acclimatization days are included in the itinerary to prevent altitude-related complications.
- Emergency Communication: The team is equipped with satellite phones, radios, and GPS devices to maintain constant contact between Base Camp and climbing teams. This ensures quick communication in case of emergencies.
- Medical and Rescue Support: Comprehensive medical kits, supplementary oxygen, and a Gamow bag (portable altitude chamber) are available at Base Camp and high camps. Helicopter evacuation services are pre-arranged for emergency rescue operations if necessary.
- Weather and Risk Assessment: Daily weather updates and mountain condition reports are reviewed to determine safe climbing schedules. The team avoids unnecessary risks by following flexible ascent plans.
- Trained Support Team: All Sherpas, guides, and staff are trained in mountain safety, first aid, and rope rescue techniques to respond effectively in critical situations.
- Insurance and Permits: All climbers are required to have comprehensive travel and medical insurance that covers high-altitude rescue and evacuation. The company also handles all legal permits and climbing documentation.
With these safety protocols in place, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that every climber experiences a well-organized, secure, and successful expedition while minimizing risks at high altitude.
Team Composition for the Expedition
The success of the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition greatly depends on teamwork, coordination, and professional expertise. Alpine Club of Himalaya carefully assembles a highly skilled and experienced team to provide technical guidance, logistical support, and personalized care throughout the journey.
Typical Team Composition Includes:
- Expedition Leader / Climbing Guide:
A certified, English-speaking mountain guide with extensive experience in 7,000m and 8,000m Himalayan climbs. Responsible for overall expedition management, route decisions, and safety oversight. - High-Altitude Sherpa Climbers:
Skilled Sherpas assist with route fixing, load carrying, camp setup, and client support above Base Camp. Each climber is supported by at least one high-altitude Sherpa for maximum safety. - Base Camp Manager / Sirdar:
Coordinates logistics, communication, and supplies between Base Camp and the climbing team. Ensures smooth operation and timely support. - Cook and Kitchen Staff:
Experienced cooks prepare hygienic and nutritious meals at Base Camp and during the trekking phase. Proper nutrition is essential for maintaining energy and acclimatization at high altitude. - Porters and Support Crew:
Local porters help carry expedition gear, food, and personal luggage during the approach trek. They are essential for managing logistics in remote regions where vehicle access is limited. - Medical Officer or First-Aid Responder (on large expeditions):
For bigger teams, a trained medical personnel may accompany the group to handle minor injuries, altitude sickness, or health concerns. - Office Support Team (Kathmandu-based):
The Alpine Club of Himalaya operations team handles permits, flight arrangements, customs clearance for cargo, and emergency coordination from Kathmandu.
This well-balanced team structure ensures that every aspect of the expedition—from logistics and safety to food and climbing support—is managed efficiently. With Alpine Club of Himalaya’s experienced professionals and strong teamwork, climbers can focus on achieving their ultimate goal: a safe and successful summit of Putha Hiunchuli, one of Nepal’s most remote and rewarding 7,000-meter peaks.
Transportation
The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition involves a combination of air, road, and trekking transportation to access the remote Dolpa region. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures safe, comfortable, and well-organized travel throughout the journey.
- Flights:
Ø Kathmandu to Nepalgunj: Scenic domestic flight that provides views of the Terai plains and lower Himalayan foothills.
Ø Nepalgunj to Juphal: Small Mountain aircraft flies over the rugged Dolpa landscape, offering breathtaking aerial views and direct access to the expedition start point.
- Ground Transportation:
Ø Private or shared jeeps and vehicles are arranged depending on group size and requirement.
Ø Vehicles handle transfers between airports, towns, and trailheads efficiently.
Ø The company ensures safe, reliable, and comfortable transportation in the region where road conditions may be rough.
- Trekking to Base Camp:
Ø From Juphal, the journey continues on foot along a six-day trek to Base Camp (4,575m).
Ø Porters are provided to carry expedition gear, while climbers carry personal backpacks with essentials.
Meals
During the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, climbers enjoy carefully planned meals to maintain energy, stamina, and overall health at high altitude. In Kathmandu, guests are accommodated on a Bed & Breakfast (B/B) plan at selected tourist-standard or five-star hotels, providing comfort before the expedition begins. During the driving and trekking phase, climbers receive Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner (B, L, D) prepared by the expedition cook team, featuring a balanced mix of Nepali, Tibetan, and international dishes. At Base Camp and higher camps, the team focuses on nutritious, high-energy meals designed for high-altitude performance, including adequate carbohydrates, proteins, and hydration, ensuring climbers remain strong and well-fueled for the climb.
Drinking Water
Maintaining proper hydration is essential for acclimatization and high-altitude performance. Throughout the expedition, safe drinking water is provided and treated using purification tablets, filters, or boiling to ensure cleanliness. Climbers are encouraged to drink frequently to prevent dehydration and altitude-related issues. At higher camps, the expedition team prepares bottled or melted snow water hygienically, making sure climbers have a continuous supply of safe drinking water even in remote areas.
Accommodation
Accommodation during the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition is carefully planned to ensure comfort and rest at every stage of the journey. In Kathmandu, climbers stay in tourist-standard to five-star hotels based on preference. Along the trekking route to Base Camp, the expedition utilizes tea houses or lodges in local villages, offering basic amenities, warm meals, and traditional hospitality. At Base Camp and high camps, climbers stay in high-quality expedition tents equipped with insulated sleeping mats and dining arrangements. These tents are built for durability and warmth, designed to withstand extreme high-altitude weather. The team also ensures proper sanitation, hygiene, and comfortable tent layouts at all camps, providing a safe and secure environment for rest and recovery.
Guides, Porters, and Mules
For the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a well-trained support team to assist climbers throughout the trek and climbing phases. Guides and Sherpas lead the route, manage camp setups, and ensure safety at high altitudes. Porters and mules are employed to carry trekking and climbing gear, personal luggage, food supplies, and camping equipment, reducing the physical load on climbers and allowing them to focus on acclimatization and the summit attempt. This support system is essential for a safe, organized, and comfortable expedition, especially in the remote and rugged terrain of the Dolpa region.
WiFi and Electricity
Connectivity in the Dolpa region is limited due to its remote location. At Base Camp and higher camps, electricity is typically supplied via solar panels or generators to power essential equipment, lighting, and charging small devices. WiFi and internet services are generally unavailable or extremely limited at high-altitude camps, so climbers should plan accordingly.
In villages and tea houses along the trekking route, some locations may provide basic electricity and occasional WiFi, but these services are not guaranteed and may be intermittent. Alpine Club of Himalaya advises climbers to focus on the expedition experience and use technology sparingly, ensuring safety and immersion in the Himalayan environment.
Permits and Requirements for Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
Climbing Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m / 23,772ft) in Nepal requires several official permits and documentation to legally access the remote Dolpa region. Alpine Club of Himalaya assists climbers in obtaining all necessary permits, ensuring a smooth and hassle-free process so participants can focus on the trek and summit attempt.
· Climbing Permit:
A climbing permit is mandatory for all peaks above 6,000 meters and is issued by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Mountaineering and Archaeology. The cost of the permit varies based on the season, the specific peak, and the size of the climbing group.
· National Park Permit:
Since Putha Hiunchuli is located in a protected region, climbers must obtain a Shey Phoksundo National Park permit. This permit helps preserve the environment and supports conservation efforts in Dolpa.
· TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System):
All trekkers are required to have a TIMS card, which allows authorities to track trekkers for safety and emergency purposes. This is a standard requirement for trekking in most regions of Nepal.
· Local Permits:
Certain areas within Dolpa require additional local permits or permissions from district authorities. These permits help regulate tourism in remote villages and support local communities.
· Insurance Requirements:
Climbers must have comprehensive travel and high-altitude insurance, which covers medical emergencies, high-altitude evacuation, and rescue operations. This is crucial due to the remoteness, extreme weather, and altitude-related risks of the expedition.
· Identification:
A valid passport and Nepal visa are required. In some cases, climbers may also need to provide proof of prior climbing experience or certificates for verification.
By managing all permits, documentation, and legal formalities, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that climbers can focus entirely on the expedition, including trekking, acclimatization, and the summit push, without worrying about administrative obstacles. This careful preparation guarantees a safe, organized, and fully compliant high-altitude climbing experience in the Dolpa region.
Online Briefing
Alpine Club of Himalaya provides an online briefing for all climbers prior to the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition. This briefing covers essential details about the trek, climbing routes, weather conditions, gear requirements, safety protocols, and acclimatization strategies. It also includes guidance on nutrition, hydration, and emergency procedures at high altitude. The online session allows climbers to ask questions directly to the expedition leader and Sherpa team, ensuring they are fully prepared and confident before departure.
This digital briefing is especially valuable for international participants, helping them understand the logistics, expectations, and challenges of the expedition well in advance. It also ensures smooth coordination, reducing confusion during the initial days of the trek and climb.
Last-Minute Booking
Alpine Club of Himalaya accommodates last-minute bookings for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, subject to availability of permits, flights, and expedition logistics. However, climbers are encouraged to book as early as possible to secure:
- Necessary climbing permits and national park approvals.
- Domestic flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and onward to Juphal.
- Adequate allocation of guides, Sherpas, porters, and camping equipment.
- Preparation time for pre-expedition online briefing, gear checks, and acclimatization recommendations.
Even with late bookings, the company ensures that climbers receive full support and guidance, including logistical arrangements, high-altitude safety briefings, and equipment preparation, allowing a smooth and successful expedition experience.
Final Notes
Before embarking on the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, climbers should ensure that all personal gear and equipment are tested, properly fitted, and comfortable. High-altitude climbing demands reliable clothing, footwear, and technical gear to cope with extreme weather and physical challenges. Improper or untested gear can compromise safety and performance.
Some essential equipment, such as tents, ropes, high-altitude cooking facilities, and select climbing hardware, are provided by the expedition team of Alpine Club of Himalaya. Climbers should verify with the team which items are included in the package and ensure that personal gear complements the provided equipment. Proper preparation, fitness, and attention to gear details significantly enhance the chances of a safe and successful summit.
Cancellation Policy
Cancellation by the Participant
Participants are requested to notify Alpine Club of Himalaya immediately if they need to cancel the expedition. Refunds are processed according to the following schedule:
- 60 days or more before departure: 20% of the total expedition cost retained as administrative fee.
- 30 to 59 days before departure: 50% of the total expedition cost retained.
- Less than 30 days before departure: Full payment is non-refundable.
Cancellation by the Organizer
If Alpine Club of Himalaya cancels the expedition due to unforeseen circumstances, such as extreme weather, natural disasters, or safety concerns, participants are entitled to a full refund of paid fees or the option to reschedule the expedition for a later date.
Force Majeure
Alpine Club of Himalaya is not responsible for additional expenses arising from force majeure events, including natural disasters, political unrest, strikes, or health emergencies. Participants are encouraged to obtain travel insurance covering unforeseen circumstances for full protection.
Detail Itineraries
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, you will be warmly welcomed by the team from Alpine Club of Himalaya and transferred to your hotel. Today is dedicated to rest and acclimatization after international travel. Take the time to relax, enjoy the city atmosphere, and prepare for the days ahead. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is a vibrant city rich in culture, temples, and bustling markets. In the evening, climbers can review their gear and discuss the expedition plan with guides.
Max. Elevation
1,350m / 4,429ft.
Duration
Arrival day
Accommodation
Hotel in Kathmandu
Meals
Dinner included in the hotel
Trip Highlight
- Climb one of Nepal’s least-explored 7,000m peaks, known as Dhaulagiri VI, in the remote Dolpa region.
- Experience the untouched wilderness of western Nepal, often called the “Wild West” of the Himalayas.
- Follow the scenic and safer northern route with gentle slopes averaging 35°, ideal for moderate technical climbers.
- Enjoy breathtaking aerial views during flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Juphal.
- Trek through remote Magar and Dolpo villages, rich in traditional culture and Himalayan lifestyle.
- Gradual six-day trek to Base Camp (4,575m/15,009ft) ensures excellent acclimatization.
- Stunning views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Kanjiroba, and other surrounding peaks throughout the expedition.
- Professionally guided expedition organized by Alpine Club of Himalaya with a strong focus on safety and success.
- Ideal expedition for climbers seeking a 7,000m summit experience without extreme technical difficulty.
- Perfect blend of adventure, culture, and solitude in one of Nepal’s most pristine mountain regions.
Cost Include and Exclude
All arrival and departure transfers to and from Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, and all necessary surface transport as per the itinerary.
Assistance at Kathmandu airport by Alpine Club of Himalaya during arrival and departure.
4-night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a Bed & Breakfast (B/B) basis.
Experienced and government-licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guides throughout the expedition.
Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period.
Kathmandu–Nepalgunj–Juphal return flights for all climbing members, Sherpa guides, and liaison officers, including all departure taxes.
Kathmandu–Nepalgunj bus transportation for kitchen staff and expedition support.
All Alpine Club of Himalaya facilities at Base Camp, including kitchen tents, storage tents, dining tents, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils.
Common climbing equipment: ropes, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bars.
Three meals a day (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) including tea and coffee.
Accommodation at hotel, lodge, guest house, or tent camps during the trekking period.
All camping accommodation for clients and staff during trekking and climbing periods; sharing of sleeping quarters with one other member.
All food and fuel at Base Camp.
30kg baggage allowance per person during trekking, carried by porters or mules.
Daily weather reports from a Seattle, Washington-based service.
Services of chef and kitchen assistants at Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp.
Trekking permits (Shey Phoksundo National Park / Dolpa region entry).
TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
Expedition royalty and Nepal government permits to climb Putha Hiunchuli.
Wages, equipment, medical and accident insurance for all expedition staff during trekking and climbing.
Helicopter rescue insurance for all expedition staff.
Medical consultation services at Base Camp via HRA clinic.
Equipment allowances and wages for chefs, kitchen assistants, and liaison officers.
First aid medical kits for group and staff.
Satellite phone available upon request ($3 USD per minute).
Heater at Base Camp for the dining tent.
Emergency oxygen masks and regulators for clients if needed (appropriate charge applies).
Individual tents for each expedition member at Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp.
Solar panels for lights and electronics charging.
Gamow Bags (portable hyperbaric chambers) for altitude sickness.
Sherpa tents, food, and insurance during climbing.
Assistance with cargo clearance and duties.
Transportation of food supplies from Kathmandu to Base Camp via porters/mules.
Service charge and government taxes in Nepal.
Complete pre-departure information, including flight reconfirmation and visa extension assistance.
Farewell dinner in Kathmandu at a traditional Nepali restaurant with cultural show.
Alpine Club of Himalaya T-shirt for each participant.
Equipment and Packaging List
Expedition Gears and Packing List
Personal Clothing
- Base Layers: Moisture-wicking thermal tops and bottoms for high-altitude comfort.
- Insulating Layers: Fleece or down jackets for warmth during cold conditions.
- Outer Layer: Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants (Gore-Tex or similar) to protect from snow and rain.
- Climbing Pants: Durable, lightweight, and suitable for layering.
- Trekking Pants and Shirts: Comfortable clothing for trekking sections.
- Gloves and Mittens: Thin liner gloves, insulated gloves, and waterproof mittens.
- Headwear: Warm hat or balaclava, sun hat, and neck gaiter or scarf.
- Socks: Moisture-wicking trekking socks, insulated socks for high camps.
- Footwear: Sturdy trekking boots for approach and base camp, insulated mountaineering boots for high-altitude climbing.
- Gaiters: To prevent snow and debris from entering boots.
Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Harness (adjustable and comfortable for long hours).
- Helmet suitable for mountaineering.
- Ice Axe for technical sections.
- Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots.
- Carabiners and Ascenders for rope climbing and glacier travel.
- Belay Device and locking carabiners.
- Prusik Loops or Mechanical Ascenders for safety.
- Trekking Poles for stability during approach trek.
Sleeping and Camping Gear
- Sleeping Bag: High-altitude rated (-20°C or lower).
- Insulated Sleeping Mat: Lightweight and durable for Base Camp and high camps.
- Personal Tent (optional above Base Camp): Provided for clients by Alpine Club of Himalaya.
- Headlamp with Extra Batteries for night trekking and camping.
Personal Accessories
- Backpack: 40–60L for personal gear during trekking.
- Duffel Bag / Expedition Kitbag: 70–80L, to be carried by porters or mules.
- Daypack: For summit day essentials and water.
- Sunglasses: High UV protection and glacier glasses.
- Sunscreen and Lip Balm: SPF 50+ recommended.
- Water Bottles / Hydration System: Minimum 2–3 liters capacity.
- Personal Toiletries: Biodegradable soap, toothpaste, toothbrush, hand sanitizer.
- Personal Medical Kit: Include personal medications, blister care, painkillers, altitude sickness tablets.
- Camera / Phone: Extra batteries or power banks (solar charging available at Base Camp).
Optional Items
- Satellite Phone or Walkie-Talkie for emergencies (Alpine Club of Himalaya provides satellite phone access at Base Camp at a small fee).
- Gamow Bag (portable hyperbaric chamber)—available on request from the expedition team.
- Snacks and Energy Bars for summit day.
- Notebook / Journal to record expedition experiences.
Packing Tips from Alpine Club of Himalaya
· Layering is Key: Prepare for temperatures ranging from mild trekking days to extreme cold at 7,246m.
· Minimize Weight: Only carry essential items in your personal bag; porters and mules carry the rest.
· Label Your Gear: Clearly mark all personal items for easy identification during the expedition.
· Waterproofing: Ensure duffel bags and personal gear are packed in waterproof liners.
· Acclimatization Gear: Bring extra warm layers for higher camps; temperatures can drop significantly.
Documents Required
· Passport: Valid for at least six months beyond your travel dates.
· Nepal Visa: Obtainable on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, or online before arrival.
· Climbing Permit: Required for Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m), issued by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Mountaineering and Archaeology. Alpine Club of Himalaya handles all permit processing.
· National Park Permit: Shey Phoksundo National Park permit required for trekking and climbing in Dolpa region.
· TIMS Card (Trekking Information Management System): Mandatory for trekking in most regions of Nepal.
· Insurance Documents: Proof of comprehensive travel and high-altitude climbing insurance, including helicopter evacuation coverage.
· Medical Records: Any personal medical reports or prescriptions for chronic conditions.
· Climbing Experience Certificates: Alpine Club of Himalaya may request prior high-altitude climbing proof for verification.
· Emergency Contact Information: Updated contacts for family or medical support.
· Acclimatization Gear: Bring extra warm layers for higher camps; temperatures can drop significantly.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Question)
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