Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass – 21 Days

Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass – 21 Days is a challenging yet highly rewarding adventure that takes you deep into the heart of the Everest region. This unique Himalayan expedition combines the thrill of summiting Mera Peak (6,476m)—the highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal—with the technical experience of crossing the remote and spectacular Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,846m). Designed for trekkers and climbers seeking a remote, off-the-beaten-path route with awe-inspiring alpine landscapes, this trip will test your endurance, elevate your mountaineering skills, and leave you with a profound sense of achievement.

Organized by Alpine Club of Himalaya, a trusted name in Himalayan trekking and climbing, this 21-day journey is perfect for adventurers looking to experience Nepal’s untouched wilderness while exploring both popular and rarely visited high-altitude terrain. Along the way, you'll be treated to breathtaking views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Ama Dablam, and traverse through some of the most pristine valleys, glaciers, and high passes in the Khumbu region.

Our adventure begins with a cultural exploration of Kathmandu Valley, where you'll have time to prepare for the climb and tour UNESCO World Heritage Sites. After all gear checks and necessary arrangements, we take a scenic flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region. Unlike the classic Everest Base Camp trek, our route takes us away from the busy trail and into the tranquil wilderness of Chutanga, where lush forests and peaceful Sherpa villages mark the beginning of our journey.

We allow plenty of time for acclimatization, following a carefully designed itinerary that ensures your body adjusts properly to the rising altitudes. Our first major ascent is over Zatrwa La Pass (4,600m), which offers stunning views and leads us into the secluded Hinku Valley. From here, the trail follows the glacier-fed Hinku River, passing through Khote and Thagnak, before reaching Khare (5,045m)—our base for acclimatization and climbing preparation.

In Khare, our professional climbing guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya will conduct a pre-climb training session, introducing essential rope skills, ice axe techniques, and crampon use. After a short hike to Mera Peak Base Camp, we push higher to High Camp (5,780m), carefully pacing ourselves for summit day. An early morning ascent leads us to the top of Mera Peak, where a 360-degree Himalayan panorama greets you—featuring Everest (8,848m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Cho Oyu (8,188m).

After summiting, we descend into the remote Honku Valley, a wild and breathtaking glacial basin dotted with frozen lakes like Seto Pokhari. From here, we prepare to cross the technical Amphu Laptsa Pass, which involves fixed ropes and careful footwork on icy terrain. This section of the trek is physically demanding and visually dramatic, often regarded as one of the most beautiful yet challenging passes in the Himalayas.

On the other side of the pass, we reconnect with the classic Everest route at Chhukung, and gradually descend through Pangboche, Tengboche Monastery, Namche Bazaar, and finally to Lukla. From Lukla, we take a flight back to Kathmandu where a farewell dinner marks the successful conclusion of your Himalayan expedition.

Why Choose Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass?

Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass is the ideal expedition for adventure seekers looking to take their high-altitude trekking to the next level. This 21-day journey offers the rare opportunity to summit Mera Peak (6,476m)—the highest trekking peak in Nepal—while also crossing the technically demanding Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,846m). The route takes you through the remote and untouched Hinku and Honku Valleys, offering solitude, pristine landscapes, and up-close views of five of the world's tallest peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga. Guided by licensed and experienced climbing professionals from Alpine Club of Himalaya, you’ll receive hands-on training in essential mountaineering techniques, making it an excellent choice for physically fit trekkers aiming to gain mountaineering experience in a safe, structured, and awe-inspiring environment.

Is This Trip for You?
Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass – 21 Days is a physically and mentally demanding expedition best suited for experienced trekkers who are eager to take on a more technical adventure in the Himalayas. This trip involves sustained trekking at high altitudes, glacier crossings, and one of Nepal’s most technical high passes. Prior experience at elevations above 4,000 meters is highly recommended, as you will be spending extended time above 5,000 meters—including the summit push to Mera Peak at 6,476 meters and crossing the Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5,846 meters.

While formal mountaineering experience is not a strict requirement, you should be familiar with basic alpine equipment such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes. Physical preparation is essential. You’ll need strong endurance, core strength, and the ability to hike for 6–8 hours per day over steep, rugged, and icy terrain—sometimes in freezing temperatures and changing weather conditions. That said, this climb is also an excellent entry point into Himalayan mountaineering. With comprehensive support, on-the-spot training, and expert guidance, fit and motivated trekkers can safely complete the journey, even without prior climbing credentials.

Mental preparedness is equally important. The trail leads through some of the most remote valleys in eastern Nepal—Hinku and Honku Valleys—where lodges are basic or unavailable, and camping becomes essential. The terrain is rugged, the temperatures can be extreme, and conditions may change unexpectedly. You’ll be required to stay calm, flexible, and focused, especially during summit and pass-crossing days that start before dawn. However, the sense of achievement upon reaching the summit of Mera Peak and completing the technical traverse of Amphu Laptsa makes the effort more than worthwhile.

Safety, Support & Logistics
At Alpine Club of Himalaya, your safety and success are our top priorities. We have over two decades of experience guiding climbers in Nepal’s high-altitude regions and have earned a reputation for professionalism, expertise, and care. This expedition is carefully designed with built-in acclimatization days, contingency days for bad weather or health-related delays, and access to professional climbing support every step of the way.

Our licensed and insured climbing guides are UIAA-trained, experienced in high-altitude rescue, and intimately familiar with the route, including both Mera Peak summit and Amphu Laptsa Pass. Before your summit attempt, we organize a thorough pre-climb training session at Khare, where you’ll practice using ropes, ice axes, crampons, and harnesses on snow or ice under the supervision of your climbing guide. This session boosts your technical confidence and ensures you’re well-prepared for the challenges ahead.

We maintain a high guide-to-client ratio to ensure personalized attention and support. In addition to certified climbing guides, our team includes skilled porters, cooks, and logistics coordinators to ensure a smooth experience from start to finish. We use tested, high-quality mountaineering gear and provide all necessary safety equipment, including ropes, ice screws, and emergency oxygen (when applicable).

In remote regions such as Honku Valley and Amphu Laptsa, where lodge facilities are unavailable, fully equipped camping support is arranged. Our team sets up tents, prepares warm and nutritious meals, and monitors your health daily to ensure your well-being. Satellite phones and two-way radios are carried for communication in emergency situations.

From the moment you land in Kathmandu to your final day in the Himalayas, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures every detail—from flights, permits, accommodations, and meals to safety checks, rescue access, and route navigation—is handled with utmost professionalism. Whether you're a first-time climber ready to step into alpine mountaineering or an experienced trekker looking for your next big Himalayan challenge, this expedition offers a secure and unforgettable path to the summit.

Best Time for Climbing

The best time for Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass – 21 Days is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons. These periods offer stable weather, excellent visibility, and safer trail and glacier conditions.

·       Spring Season (March to May):
Spring is one of the most preferred times for climbing Mera Peak and crossing Amphu Laptsa Pass. The weather gradually warms, and rhododendrons bloom in the lower regions. Snow conditions on the pass and summit are more predictable, and the skies remain mostly clear for spectacular Himalayan views.

·       Autumn Season (September to November):
Autumn offers the clearest skies and most stable conditions. The monsoon rains clear dust from the air, allowing crystal-clear views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, and surrounding giants. October is especially favorable, with cool temperatures, dry trails, and minimal snowfall.

·       Avoid the monsoon (June–August) due to frequent rain, landslides, and poor visibility. Winter (December–February) brings extreme cold, deep snow, and avalanche risks, making Amphu Laptsa Pass largely impassable during this time.

Difficulty Level

Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass – 21 Days is rated as challenging to strenuous, suitable for experienced trekkers and aspiring climbers. It combines high-altitude trekking with glacier travel and technical sections requiring the use of climbing equipment.

• Mera Peak (6,476m):
  Considered non-technical but physically demanding due to altitude and potential crevasse hazards. Summit day is long and cold, requiring proper stamina and pacing.
• Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,846m):
  One of Nepal’s most technical passes. Requires fixed ropes, ice axe, crampons, and guided glacier navigation. Steep ascents and descents involve ropework and crossing snowfields and crevassed areas.

This expedition is best suited for those with prior high-altitude experience and a strong physical condition. While no advanced mountaineering experience is required, basic familiarity with climbing gear is helpful.

Physical Fitness & Requirements

This high-altitude adventure demands excellent fitness, stamina, and mental resilience. Daily trekking involves walking 6–8 hours on average, with summit and pass-crossing days lasting 10–12 hours.

Key physical requirements include:

• Cardiovascular endurance for sustained climbs at altitude
• Leg and core strength for glacier and steep terrain
• Mental focus and determination, especially during long, cold summit pushes
• Previous high-altitude experience (above 4,500m) is strongly recommended
• Basic knowledge of ice axe, crampons, harnesses, and fixed ropes is beneficial

We recommend preparing with a dedicated training plan 8–12 weeks in advance, including hiking, strength training, and cardio workouts. Alpine Club of Himalaya also provides pre-trip guidance to help you get ready.

Weather Conditions and Forecast

Weather in the Khumbu and Hinku Valleys can be unpredictable, particularly above 5,000 meters. Understanding seasonal patterns helps with preparation.

·       Spring (March–May):
Lower altitudes range from 10°C to 15°C, while high camps can dip to -10°C to -20°C. Snow is common in the afternoons.

·       Autumn (September–November):
Clear skies, cool weather, and dry trails. Early mornings are cold, with temperatures at summit points reaching -25°C.

·       At High Altitude:
Expect severe cold, high winds, and occasional whiteouts at Mera Peak High Camp and Amphu Laptsa Pass. Alpine Club of Himalaya monitors forecasts daily via satellite updates to optimize safety and summit success.

Safety and Security

Safety is the top priority during Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa Pass. The route involves technical sections and remote terrain, so we implement advanced safety protocols throughout.

• Led by licensed, experienced Sherpa guides trained in high-altitude rescue
• High guide-to-client ratio ensures personalized support
• Daily monitoring with pulse oximeters to check oxygen levels
• Emergency oxygen, first aid kits, and satellite communication always on hand
• Real-time weather and risk assessment to manage avalanche or route conditions

The region is politically stable and safe from crime, but unpredictable weather and remote terrain make traveling with an experienced company like Alpine Club of Himalaya essential.

Altitude Sickness

Spending extended time above 5,000 meters makes Altitude Sickness (AMS) a real concern. Proper acclimatization is crucial for a safe journey.

Symptoms of AMS may include:

• Headache, nausea, fatigue
• Shortness of breath at rest
• Dizziness or poor sleep

If untreated, AMS can escalate to HAPE or HACE, which are life-threatening. To prevent this:

• Daily health checks with pulse oximeters
• Immediate descent for symptomatic trekkers
• Hydration and rest emphasized throughout the trek
• Emergency helicopter evacuation arranged if required

Our team is trained in first response and evacuation procedures to handle AMS efficiently.

Acclimatization Requirement for a Safe Climb

Our itinerary includes multiple acclimatization days, giving your body time to adjust to the rising altitude.

Key acclimatization strategies include:

• Rest days at Khare before Mera Peak and Seto Pokhari before Amphu Laptsa
• Climb high, sleep low practice on acclimatization hikes
• Gradual gain in elevation to allow for smooth adaptation

Following the acclimatization schedule is mandatory, as it dramatically improves summit success and minimizes health risks.

Facilities and Camp Setup

The 21-day route includes a mix of teahouse accommodation and full-service tented camps.

Teahouses:

• Available in villages like Lukla, Kothe, Thagnak, and Khare
• Twin rooms with shared bathrooms and basic bedding
• Warm meals served in communal dining areas

Tented Camps:

• Used in remote regions such as Mera High Camp, Amphu Laptsa Base, and in the Honku Valley
• Weather-proof tents with foam mats and sleeping insulation
• Kitchen, dining, and toilet tents managed by support staff
• All meals prepared by trained expedition cooks

Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures clean, safe, and organized accommodation throughout the journey.

Lukla Flight and Alternatives

The expedition begins with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, known for weather-related delays. We offer several alternatives:

1. Ramechhap to Lukla Flight:
   During peak seasons, flights operate from Manthali Airport (Ramechhap), a 4–5-hour drive from Kathmandu.
2. Helicopter Charter:
   Private or shared helicopter flights to Lukla or Khare (near Mera Peak) can be arranged for flexibility and scenic access.
3. Overland + Trek Route:
   Adventurous trekkers may opt to drive to Salleri or Jiri and trek into the Khumbu, adding 4–6 days to the itinerary.

Alpine Club of Himalaya handles all logistics, including rebookings due to weather-related flight cancellations.

Meals During the Trek and Climb

All meals are included and designed to fuel your body at altitude.

In teahouses:

• Breakfast: Porridge, eggs, pancakes, chapati, tea/coffee
• Lunch/Dinner: Dal Bhat, pasta, fried rice, soups, vegetables, noodles

In camps:

• Warm, energy-rich meals including soups, rice, potatoes, and snacks
• Special dietary needs accommodated upon request

Proper nutrition is key to endurance and altitude adaptation.

Drinking Water Availability

Safe drinking water is always provided:

• Boiled or filtered water in teahouses
• Boiled water supplied daily at camps
• Bring reusable bottles or hydration packs and avoid single-use plastics

Purification tablets or filters are good as a backup.

Accommodation

You’ll stay in a combination of teahouses and tented camps:

Teahouses:

• Twin-share rooms with mattresses
• Shared bathrooms and basic blankets
• Found in lower-altitude settlements

Tented Camps:

• Durable mountain tents (2-person)
• Dining, kitchen, and toilet tents for group use
• Comfortable and warm, even in sub-zero conditions

Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures high-quality lodging throughout.

Wi-Fi and Electricity Availability

Wi-Fi:

• Available in Lukla, Thagnak, Khare via paid services
• No access at high camps or remote valleys

Electricity:

• Charging is available at teahouses (extra charge per device)
• No power at high-altitude camps—carry power banks or solar chargers

Connectivity is limited, especially near Amphu Laptsa Pass and high camps.

Guide and Porter Support

Your expedition team includes:

Climbing Guides and Sherpas:

• Government-certified, English-speaking experts
• Trained in high-altitude rescue, first aid, and technical climbing
• Responsible for glacier navigation and summit safety

Porters:

• Carry your duffel bags (up to 20kg)
• Provided with fair wages, meals, insurance, and equipment

A strong and experienced support team is essential for a safe and successful climb.

Climbing Permits and Entrance Fees

All necessary permits are arranged by Alpine Club of Himalaya:

1. Mera Peak Climbing Permit (NMA):

• Spring: USD 250
• Autumn: USD 125
• Winter/Summer: USD 70

2. Sagarmatha National Park Entry:

• NPR 3,000 (~USD 23)

3. Makalu Barun National Park Entry:

• NPR 3,000 (~USD 23)

4. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Fee:

• NPR 3,000 (~USD 25)

5. TIMS Card (if applicable):

• USD 25 per person

Note: Permit rates are subject to change. Alpine Club of Himalaya will keep you informed and handle all documentation.

Travel Insurance

Comprehensive travel insurance is mandatory for all participants joining the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera Peak climbing. Your insurance must cover high-altitude trekking and mountaineering up to at least 6,500 meters, which includes medical emergencies, evacuation by helicopter, trip cancellations, personal accidents, and loss or theft of belongings. Without valid insurance, you will not be allowed to participate in the expedition. We recommend choosing a provider that specializes in adventure travel insurance and offers 24/7 emergency assistance. Alpine Club of Himalaya can provide guidance on selecting a reliable travel insurance company suited for Nepal expeditions.

Passport and Visa Requirements

To enter Nepal, foreign nationals must hold a valid passport with at least six months' validity from the date of entry. A tourist visa is required and can be obtained on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu or through your nearest Nepalese embassy or consulate. Most trekkers opt for the 30-day visa, which costs USD 50, and can be extended if necessary. It’s essential to carry passport-sized photos and complete the visa application form upon arrival. Ensure you make a few photocopies of your passport and visa for trekking permits and emergency use during the expedition.

Final Notes

Before beginning your Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa, it is essential to thoroughly test all your personal gear to ensure proper fit and functionality. Ill-fitting boots, malfunctioning headlamps, or missing gear can significantly impact your performance and safety, especially when operating in high-altitude, glaciated environments.

While you are expected to bring most of your personal clothing and equipment, some technical climbing gear—such as ropes, carabiners, and group equipment—may be provided by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we strongly recommend confirming with the team in advance which items are included in your package and which need to be brought or rented separately.

This expedition crosses two major peaks and a technical alpine pass, requiring a high level of physical preparation, mental resilience, and properly functioning equipment. Arriving well-prepared ensures not only your success but also the safety of the team.

Cancellation Policy

Participant-Initiated Cancellations

If you choose to cancel your Mera Peak Climbing with Amphu Laptsa please inform Alpine Club of Himalaya in writing as early as possible. The following cancellation charges apply:

• Cancellations made 60 days or more prior to the scheduled departure will incur a 20% cancellation fee of the total trip cost.
• Cancellations made 30 to 59 days before departure will result in a 50% cancellation fee.
• Cancellations made less than 30 days before the scheduled departure date will result in forfeiture of the entire payment.

No refunds will be provided for unused services, missed days, or early return from the expedition due to personal choice, altitude sickness, or other health-related reasons.

Organizer-Initiated Cancellations

In the rare event that Alpine Club of Himalaya must cancel the expedition—due to extreme weather conditions, natural disasters, political instability, or safety concerns—you will be given the following options:

• A full refund of all payments made, or
• The option to reschedule your expedition for a future available date at no additional cost.

Every effort will be made to notify you of such cancellations well in advance.

Force Majeure Clause

Alpine Club of Himalaya shall not be held liable for any losses, delays, or additional costs incurred due to force majeure events, which include but are not limited to:

• Natural disasters (e.g., earthquakes, landslides, avalanches, or floods)
• Extreme weather or unforeseen climatic events
• Political unrest, strikes, or government-imposed restrictions
• Health emergencies or pandemics
• Delays or cancellations of flights or other transportation

These circumstances are beyond the control of the organizer, and participants are strongly advised to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that covers trip cancellation, medical evacuation, and high-altitude trekking and climbing.