Lobuche East & Island Peak Climbing – 17 Days

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Destination

Nepal

Duration

17 Days

Best Weather

March, April, may, September, October & November

Max Altitude

6189

Accommodation

Hotel, Teahouse, and Camp

Meals

Full Board during Trek and Breakfasts, Welcome and Farewell meals in Kathmandu

Transportation

Private vehicle / Flights

Group

Min. 1 Pax

Difficulty

Strenuous

Activities

Peak Climbing

Overview

The Lobuche East and Island Peak Climbing – 17 Days expedition is a thrilling Himalayan adventure that combines two of Nepal’s most sought-after trekking peaks. This challenging journey offers a perfect balance of high-altitude trekking, technical climbing, cultural exploration, and breathtaking scenery. Organized by Alpine Club of Himalaya, this trip is designed for climbers who want to test their endurance and mountaineering skills while experiencing the rich Sherpa culture of the Everest region.

Your journey begins with an exciting flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu region. The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River and passes through Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, Buddhist monasteries, and stunning mountain landscapes. After proper acclimatization in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche, the expedition leads first to the ascent of Lobuche East Peak (6,119m), which provides incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and the Khumbu Glacier. Once successful on Lobuche East, the adventure continues to Island Peak (6,189m), one of Nepal’s most popular climbing peaks. With its steep ice and snow headwall, crevasses, and rope sections, Island Peak offers a thrilling climb and serves as excellent preparation for future expeditions to higher Himalayan summits.

This 17-day climbing program not only provides technical mountaineering experience but also ensures cultural immersion. You’ll interact with the Sherpa community, visit Tengboche Monastery, and walk through the heart of the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With expert guidance, proper acclimatization days, and full climbing support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, this adventure guarantees both safety and success. Whether you are a seasoned trekker seeking a greater challenge or an aspiring climber aiming to scale iconic Himalayan peaks, this expedition delivers the ultimate Himalayan climbing experience.

About Lobuche East Peak

Lobuche East Peak (6,119m) is one of the most popular trekking peaks in the Khumbu region, standing majestically near the Khumbu Glacier and offering awe-inspiring views of some of the tallest mountains in the world. Although Lobuche East is lower than Everest and Lhotse, the climb is technically demanding and requires the use of climbing equipment such as crampons, harnesses, fixed ropes, and ice axes. The peak consists of rocky ridges, snow slopes, and a steep summit ridge that leads climbers to breathtaking panoramic views.

From the top of Lobuche East, climbers are rewarded with unforgettable vistas of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Pumori, and several other Himalayan giants. The climb serves as a fantastic introduction to technical Himalayan mountaineering, making it popular among climbers who want to gain experience before attempting higher peaks. With professional guidance and logistical support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can safely take on the challenges of steep ice sections and enjoy the unforgettable satisfaction of standing atop this remarkable summit.

About Island Peak

Island Peak (6,189m), also known locally as Imja Tse, is one of the most famous trekking peaks in Nepal. Its name was given by early British climbers because the peak appears like an island rising from the surrounding glaciers when viewed from Dingboche. Island Peak is widely recognized as the perfect introductory climbing peak for those preparing for higher expeditions such as Everest, Cho Oyu, or Lhotse, due to its challenging but achievable routes.

The climb involves trekking through moraine fields, glacier crossings, steep ice headwalls, and crevasses, requiring technical climbing techniques and the use of ropes and ladders. The final section of the ascent is the most demanding, with a steep climb to the narrow summit ridge. Once at the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking 360-degree views of Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and other towering Himalayan peaks.

Island Peak’s popularity comes from its accessibility, rewarding summit experience, and its role as a training ground for aspiring mountaineers. With the experienced team and guides of Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers can take on the challenges of this technical ascent with confidence, ensuring both safety and the best chance of success.

Best Time for Climbing

The best time to climb Lobuche East (6,119m) and Island Peak (6,189m) is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons. These two windows provide the most favorable weather conditions, stable temperatures, and clear skies for both trekking and climbing.

  • Spring (March to May):
    This is considered one of the most popular seasons for climbing in Nepal. The weather is generally stable, with warmer daytime temperatures at lower altitudes. The visibility is excellent, offering crystal-clear views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam. Spring also brings blooming rhododendron forests, adding vibrant colors to the trekking trails. The snow conditions on Lobuche East and Island Peak are typically ideal for climbing during this time.
  • Autumn (September to November):
    Another excellent season for peak climbing, autumn is marked by stable weather and dry conditions after the monsoon. The skies remain clear, providing outstanding mountain panoramas. The temperature is cool but comfortable for trekking and high-altitude climbing. This season is also one of the busiest, as climbers from around the world head to Nepal to attempt peaks.
  • Winter (December to February):
    Although possible, winter climbs are much more challenging due to extremely cold temperatures, heavy snow, and unpredictable weather. Only highly experienced climbers with advanced gear attempt Lobuche East and Island Peak during this period.
  • Monsoon (June to August):
    The monsoon months bring heavy rainfall, slippery trails, and poor visibility. This is generally not recommended for climbing, although some experienced teams attempt off-season expeditions.

In summary, the best time for Lobuche East and Island Peak Climbing is spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November), when the weather is clear, stable, and the climbing conditions are most favorable. With expert guidance from Alpine Club of Himalaya, these seasons maximize your chance of a safe and successful summit experience.

Difficulty Level of Lobuche East and Island Peak Climbing

Climbing Lobuche East (6,119m) and Island Peak (6,189m) is considered moderately challenging to strenuous in terms of Himalayan mountaineering. Both peaks are classified as “trekking peaks” by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), but they require more than just trekking skills. Climbers must navigate steep snow slopes, rocky ridges, and icy sections where fixed ropes, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses are necessary.

  • Lobuche East Peak involves a combination of rocky terrain and steep ice sections near the summit. It is technically demanding but achievable with the right training and guidance.
  • Island Peak is slightly more technical, especially near the final headwall before the summit. Climbers must use fixed ropes on a steep ice slope and may need to cross ladders over crevasses depending on the season.

The expedition requires stamina, mental resilience, and the ability to handle challenging high-altitude environments. Proper acclimatization days are built into the itinerary by Alpine Club of Himalaya to minimize the risk of altitude sickness and ensure your body adapts well before the summit attempts.

Physical Fitness Requirements

Both Lobuche East and Island Peak demand excellent physical fitness and preparation. You do not need to be a professional mountaineer, but previous high-altitude trekking or basic climbing experience is highly beneficial. Climbers should be able to walk 6 to 8 hours per day on steep trails with a backpack, often in cold, windy conditions.

Fitness requirements include:

  • Endurance: Strong cardiovascular health is essential. Activities such as long-distance hiking, cycling, or running help prepare for long trekking days.
  • Strength: Leg strength is crucial for uphill climbs. Core and upper body fitness are also needed for handling climbing gear and pulling yourself on fixed ropes.
  • Flexibility & Balance: These help with stability on uneven rocky terrain and glacier crossings.
  • Mental Preparedness: Climbing at high altitude requires determination, patience, and the ability to stay positive under physically demanding conditions.

Preparation for the Climb

To increase your chances of success and make the journey more enjoyable, Alpine Club of Himalaya recommends a 3–6 month training program before your climb:

  • Cardio Training: Running, cycling, swimming, or stair climbing 4–5 times a week to build endurance.
  • Strength Training: Squats, lunges, deadlifts, planks, and push-ups to strengthen legs, core, and upper body.
  • Hiking Practice: Regular hikes with a weighted backpack to simulate trekking conditions and get used to long hours on the trail.
  • Altitude Training (if possible): Trekking or hiking in higher altitudes before the expedition helps the body adjust to lower oxygen levels.
  • Climbing Skills: Basic training with crampons, harnesses, and ice axes is recommended. Alpine Club of Himalaya also provides on-site training at base camps and high camps before summit attempts.
  • Mental Preparation: Meditation, yoga, or mental resilience exercises can help with focus and positivity during tough sections of the climb.

Comprehensive Guiding Services

Climbing two iconic Himalayan peaks requires more than just determination — it demands proper guidance, logistics, and safety measures. With Alpine Club of Himalaya, you are supported every step of the way by a team of experienced professionals.

  • Expert Climbing Guides: Our guides are licensed, highly experienced, and have successfully led multiple expeditions to Lobuche East, Island Peak, and other Himalayan summits. They provide technical training on the use of crampons, harnesses, ice axes, and fixed ropes, ensuring that even climbers with limited prior experience can attempt the peaks with confidence.
  • Sherpa Support Team: Skilled Sherpa climbers and porters accompany you throughout the trek and climb, handling logistics, carrying equipment, and ensuring your safety on steep or icy sections.
  • Pre-Climb Training: At both Lobuche High Camp and Island Peak Base Camp, your guides conduct practical training sessions to review rope handling, glacier travel, and climbing techniques.
  • Safety Measures: Alpine Club of Himalaya prioritizes safety with proper acclimatization days, oxygen support if needed, first aid kits, and emergency evacuation arrangements.
  • Personalized Support: With small group sizes, our team ensures personalized guidance and encouragement, helping climbers adapt physically and mentally to high-altitude conditions.

Choosing Alpine Club of Himalaya guarantees a professional guiding service that maximizes your chances of summit success while minimizing risks.

Weather and Climate

Understanding the weather and climate of the Everest region is crucial for a successful climb of Lobuche East and Island Peak. Conditions vary with the seasons, and planning your climb during the right window enhances both safety and enjoyment.

  • Spring (March to May): This is one of the most favorable seasons for climbing. Days are warmer at lower altitudes, while snow conditions remain stable at higher elevations. Clear skies provide excellent visibility, and temperatures at base camps range between -5°C to -10°C at night.
  • Autumn (September to November): Another ideal season, autumn offers dry weather, clear skies, and stable climbing conditions. Nights are colder than in spring, but the visibility is outstanding. Base camp temperatures can drop to -10°C to -15°C at night.
  • Winter (December to February): Temperatures drop significantly, often reaching -20°C or lower at higher camps. Snow accumulation and harsh winds make climbing much more challenging. Only experienced mountaineers attempt the peaks during this season.
  • Monsoon (June to August): Heavy rainfall, cloud cover, and poor trail conditions make this the least favorable season for climbing. However, the post-monsoon season often clears up with stunning landscapes and fresh mountain views.

Weather Challenges

Even in the best seasons, climbers should be prepared for unpredictable weather in the Himalayas. At altitudes above 5,000 meters, conditions can change rapidly, and preparation is essential.

  • Sudden Snowfall: Even in spring and autumn, unexpected snowstorms can occur at higher camps, making trails slippery and climbs more technical.
  • Strong Winds: High winds are common above 5,500 meters, especially on summit ridges. Gusts can make climbing physically demanding and require careful rope use.
  • Low Temperatures: Nighttime temperatures at high camps can drop below -15°C, and wind chill makes it feel even colder. Proper gear, including insulated clothing and high-quality sleeping bags, is essential.
  • Altitude-Related Risks: Cold weather combined with thin air increases the risk of altitude sickness, frostbite, and dehydration. Careful acclimatization and constant monitoring by guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya help reduce these risks.
  • Visibility Issues: Clouds and fog can roll in quickly, limiting visibility on glaciers and summit routes, which requires climbers to rely on the experience of their guides.

Despite these challenges, careful planning, proper gear, and the expertise of Alpine Club of Himalaya ensure that climbers are prepared to face changing conditions safely.

Weather Forecast

The weather in the Everest region can be unpredictable, especially at altitudes above 5,000 meters. While spring and autumn are the most reliable seasons for clear skies and stable conditions, climbers must always stay updated with the latest forecasts. Reliable weather predictions help determine the best time to move from base camps to high camps and plan safe summit pushes for both Lobuche East Peak (6,119m) and Island Peak (6,189m).

Professional climbing guides from Alpine Club of Himalaya continuously monitor local and international mountain weather services, including forecasts on wind speed, snowfall, and temperature. This ensures summit attempts are made during safe weather windows. Even small shifts in wind or storm systems can affect climbing conditions, making accurate and timely updates essential for a successful ascent.

General Tips for Tracking Weather

Since mountain weather can change quickly, climbers are encouraged to be flexible with their schedules and always follow the guidance of their expedition leaders. Here are some useful tips for tracking weather during your climb:

  • Follow Local Forecasts: Check updates from sources like the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology of Nepal and global mountain forecast platforms before and during your expedition.
  • Observe the Sky: Cloud build-up, rapid wind movements, or sudden drops in temperature can signal a change in weather conditions.
  • Listen to Your Guides: The experienced climbing guides of Alpine Club of Himalaya are trained to read mountain weather signs and will make informed decisions about climbing safety.
  • Use Technology Wisely: Apps and satellite devices like Garmin or inReach can provide real-time weather data in remote areas.
  • Stay Flexible: Always be prepared for schedule changes. Extra acclimatization or rest days are sometimes added if weather delays occur.

By staying alert and prepared, you can avoid unnecessary risks and increase your chance of a successful summit.

Safety and Security

Safety is the top priority on high-altitude climbs like Lobuche East (6,119m) and Island Peak (6,189m). With the professional support of Alpine Club of Himalaya, climbers receive thorough safety protocols and guidance throughout the expedition.

  • Experienced Guides: Licensed climbing guides monitor your progress, adjust pace for safety, and provide technical support on ropes, glaciers, and ice slopes.
  • Equipment and Gear: Use of helmets, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, and fixed ropes ensures secure movement on technical sections.
  • Emergency Preparedness: Base camps and high camps are equipped with first-aid kits. The team has evacuation plans for altitude sickness or injuries, including coordination with helicopters if necessary.
  • Risk Management: Weather conditions, route safety, and trail assessments are constantly evaluated to minimize hazards.

By adhering to these safety measures, climbers can focus on the adventure while minimizing potential risks.

Preparations and Training

Proper preparation is essential for a successful ascent of Lobuche East and Island Peak. Physical, mental, and technical readiness all contribute to a safe and enjoyable experience.

  • Physical Training: Focus on cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, and core stability through running, hiking, cycling, and gym workouts.
  • Climbing Skills: Learn basic mountaineering techniques such as rope handling, glacier travel, ice axe use, and crampon walking. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides practical training at base camps before summit attempts.
  • Mental Preparation: High-altitude climbing requires resilience, patience, and the ability to remain calm under stress. Meditation, visualization, and goal-setting can be useful tools.
  • Gear Familiarity: Know how to use personal and technical gear efficiently, including layering systems, harnesses, and climbing equipment.

Well-prepared climbers are more likely to achieve summits safely and enjoy the journey.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is one of the most common risks at high elevations. Both Lobuche East and Island Peak are above 6,000 meters, where oxygen levels are significantly lower. Symptoms can include headaches, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. Severe cases may progress to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which require immediate medical attention.

Preventive measures include:

  • Gradual ascent and proper acclimatization days.
  • Staying hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet.
  • Avoiding alcohol and smoking at high altitudes.
  • Communicating symptoms promptly to guides for immediate response.

With careful monitoring and support from Alpine Club of Himalaya, risks associated with altitude sickness are minimized.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is critical for safely reaching the summits of Lobuche East and Island Peak. The itinerary includes multiple rest and acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, and Chhukung to help the body adjust to lower oxygen levels.

  • Gradual Ascent: Climbing schedules are designed to increase altitude slowly, reducing stress on the body.
  • Short Hikes: Optional hikes to nearby peaks or ridges allow the body to adapt while providing scenic views.
  • Monitoring Health: Guides check for early signs of altitude sickness and adjust the itinerary as needed.
  • Rest and Hydration: Adequate sleep, balanced meals, and fluid intake support proper acclimatization.

By following a structured acclimatization plan, climbers can safely tackle high-altitude technical climbs and enjoy the spectacular Himalayan landscapes.

Facilities and Camp Setup

Climbing Lobuche East (6,119m) and Island Peak (6,189m) involves spending several nights at high-altitude base camps and high camps. Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures that all camps are professionally set up with safety, comfort, and efficiency in mind.

1. Base Camp Facilities

  • Tent Accommodation: At both Lobuche East and Island Peak base camps, climbers stay in high-quality, 4-season expedition tents designed to withstand cold, wind, and occasional snowfall. Each climber has a personal tent for privacy and rest.
  • Dining Arrangements: A separate mess tent provides meals prepared by experienced cooks, offering a mix of nutritious Nepali and Western dishes to maintain energy levels at high altitudes.
  • Rest and Relaxation Areas: Camps include designated areas for stretching, warming up, and organizing gear before climbs.
  • Sanitation: Eco-friendly toilet tents are set up near camps, and waste management protocols follow Leave No Trace principles to preserve the environment.

2. High Camp Facilities

  • Summit Preparation: High camps are strategically located closer to the summit routes for both peaks, allowing climbers to start early and minimize fatigue during summit attempts.
  • Tent Setup: Sturdy 4-season tents are used, capable of withstanding strong Himalayan winds and low temperatures. Each climber has their personal sleeping tent.
  • Meal Services: High camp meals are simple but calorie-rich, including porridge, soups, pasta, and energy snacks. Hot drinks are provided to maintain hydration and body warmth.
  • Gear Storage and Preparation: Space is allocated to organize climbing equipment, ropes, and ice axes, ensuring smooth movement during the climb.

3. Safety Measures in Camps

  • Emergency Equipment: First-aid kits, oxygen cylinders, and communication devices are available at both base and high camps.
  • Trained Staff: Guides and Sherpa climbers continuously monitor weather, altitude symptoms, and camp conditions.
  • Secure Camp Layout: Tents are arranged to minimize risk from wind, avalanches, or rockfall, with designated pathways for safe movement.

4. Comfort and Support

  • Porter Assistance: Porters handle heavy luggage, allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and climbing.
  • Hydration and Nutrition: Hot water, tea, and meals are prepared regularly to maintain energy levels in extreme conditions.
  • Rest and Recovery: High-quality sleeping bags and proper tent insulation ensure a warm and comfortable night, crucial for high-altitude performance.

By providing well-equipped base and high camps, Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures climbers experience a safe, organized, and comfortable environment throughout the expedition, allowing them to concentrate fully on achieving the summits of Lobuche East and Island Peak.

Lukla Flights and Alternatives

The trek begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu (or Ramechhap) to Lukla, which is the gateway to the Everest region. However, due to air traffic congestion at Kathmandu airport, especially during peak trekking seasons (spring and autumn), flights to Lukla are often rerouted to depart from Ramechhap Airport (Manthali), about a 4–5-hour drive from Kathmandu.

Key Points:

  • Flights are weather-dependent, and delays or cancellations due to poor visibility are common.
  • Morning flights are generally more reliable.
  • Alpine Club of Himalaya manages all logistics, including transport to Ramechhap if necessary.

Alternatives to Lukla Flights:

  • Helicopter Charter to Lukla: A quicker, more flexible but expensive option, especially useful in the event of delays.
  • Drive and Trek via Jiri or Phaplu: Adds several days to the itinerary but avoids flights altogether—ideal for those wanting a longer cultural approach to Everest.

Choosing the flight option or its alternatives depends on your schedule, budget, and flexibility. Alpine Club of Himalaya will always assist in selecting the safest and most efficient route to begin your trek.

Entry Permits & Requirements for Island Peak

To climb Island Peak, trekkers and climbers are required to obtain the following permits:

  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
    Available at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu or at Monjo Park entrance.

1.     Fee: NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals / NPR 1,500 for SAARC citizens

2.     Required: Passport or copy

  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit
    Must be obtained in Lukla, at the rural municipality counter.

1.     Fee: NPR 2,000 per person

  • Island Peak Climbing Permit
    This climbing permit is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the cost depends on the season:

1.     Spring (March–May): USD 250

2.     Autumn (September–November): USD 125

3.     Off-season (December–February, June–August): USD 70

If starting your trek from Jiri, an additional Gaurishankar Conservation Area Project (GCAP) permit (NPR 2,000) is required. This can be arranged at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu.

Entry Permits & Requirements for Lobuche East

For Lobuche East Peak Climbing, climbers must secure the following official permits:

  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
    Issued at the Nepal Tourism Board or Monjo entry point.

·        Fee: NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals / NPR 1,500 for SAARC citizens

·        Required: Passport or photocopy

  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit
    Acquired at Lukla before starting the trek.

1.     Fee: NPR 2,000 per person

  • Lobuche East Peak Climbing Permit
    This special permit is required for climbing and is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The cost varies by season:

1.      Spring (March–May): USD 250

2.      Autumn (September–November): USD 125

3.      Off-season (December–February, June–August): USD 70

Just like for Island Peak, if you're trekking from Jiri, a GCAP Permit (NPR 3,000) is also required.

Note: Permit rates are subject to change. All permit arrangements will be handled by the Alpine Club of Himalaya, ensuring a hassle-free experience.

WiFi and Electricity

While trekking and climbing in the high Himalayas, modern amenities like electricity and WiFi are limited but thoughtfully managed.

  • Electricity: Base camps and high camps are equipped with solar-powered or generator-based electricity for essential needs. Climbers can charge small electronic devices like cameras, GPS devices, or headlamps, usually during designated hours to conserve power.
  • WiFi Connectivity: Internet access is limited to certain lodges in Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche. High camps typically do not have WiFi, allowing climbers to fully immerse themselves in the Himalayan experience.
  • Mobile Connectivity: Some areas have limited mobile network coverage, mostly through local SIM cards. Climbers are advised to inform family and friends in advance about connectivity limitations.

Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures climbers are prepared for limited connectivity and provides alternatives like satellite communication at high camps for emergencies.

Guide and Porter Services for Climbing

Professional guiding and porter services are essential for a safe and successful high-altitude expedition. Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a fully trained team to support climbers throughout the journey:

  • Climbing Guides: Licensed and experienced guides lead both Lobuche East and Island Peak climbs, offering technical support, route navigation, and safety oversight. They also conduct practical sessions on rope work, crampon usage, and ice axe techniques before summit attempts.
  • Sherpa Support: Skilled Sherpa climbers accompany climbers during ascents, assisting with carrying loads, setting fixed ropes, and ensuring safe passage across challenging terrain.
  • Porters: Porters carry personal luggage and camping gear, reducing physical strain and allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and summit preparation.
  • Personalized Attention: Small group sizes ensure each climber receives individual guidance, encouragement, and supervision, increasing the chances of successful summits.

This professional support system allows climbers to safely experience the technical challenges of Himalayan peaks with confidence.

Rules and Regulations

Climbing Lobuche East and Island Peak requires compliance with both Nepalese government regulations and mountaineering safety protocols:

  • Permits: Trekkers and climbers must obtain Sagarmatha National Park entry permits and trekking peak permits from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These are arranged by Alpine Club of Himalaya.
  • Environmental Regulations: Climbers must follow the Leave No Trace principle, dispose of waste responsibly, and respect protected areas within Sagarmatha National Park.
  • Altitude Guidelines: Summit attempts are allowed only after proper acclimatization to minimize the risk of altitude sickness. Guides monitor health and may adjust schedules accordingly.
  • Climbing Safety Rules: Use of fixed ropes, harnesses, crampons, and helmets is mandatory during technical sections. Safety briefings and gear checks are conducted regularly.
  • Local Customs: Respect for Sherpa culture, monasteries, and local communities is expected at all times. Photography should be done considerately, and interactions should honor local traditions.

By following these rules and regulations, climbers ensure both their own safety and the preservation of the Himalayan environment. Alpine Club of Himalaya guides enforce these standards while providing expert support throughout the expedition.

Last Minute Booking

Alpine Club of Himalaya accommodates climbers who wish to join the Lobuche East & Island Peak expedition at short notice. While high-altitude climbing requires preparation, last-minute bookings are possible under certain conditions:

  • Availability Check: Climbers should contact the team to confirm space, permits, and required guides/porters.
  • Expedited Permits: Sagarmatha National Park entry permits and Island Peak trekking peak permits can be processed quickly for urgent bookings.
  • Gear and Logistics: The team ensures that high-quality climbing gear, tents, and porter support are arranged in time, even for late arrivals.
  • Flexibility: Flight schedules to Lukla and accommodations can be adjusted to accommodate last-minute itineraries, allowing climbers to experience the adventure without delay.

This flexibility ensures that even climbers with limited planning time can safely join the expedition while enjoying the full Himalayan experience.

Online Briefing

To ensure climbers are fully prepared, Alpine Club of Himalaya provides a comprehensive online briefing before arrival in Kathmandu:

  • Itinerary Overview: Detailed explanation of the trekking and climbing schedule, including acclimatization days, summit attempts, and rest days.
  • Gear Instructions: Guidance on essential clothing, technical climbing equipment, and packing tips tailored to Lobuche East and Island Peak.
  • Safety Protocols: Instructions on high-altitude safety, use of crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and emergency procedures.
  • Health and Fitness: Advice on physical preparation, altitude sickness prevention, hydration, and nutrition.
  • Q&A Session: Participants can ask questions about the expedition, weather conditions, local culture, or technical climbing aspects.

This online briefing ensures that climbers arrive in Kathmandu confident, informed, and ready, maximizing safety and enjoyment during the expedition.

Final Notes

Before beginning your climbing, ensure all your gear is thoroughly tested and fits comfortably. Properly fitting equipment and reliable functionality are essential for your safety and success at high altitudes. While most personal gear will need to be brought by you, some technical climbing equipment may be provided as part of the expedition package. We recommend confirming with Alpine Club of Himalaya beforehand which items are included to avoid any last-minute surprises.

Cancellation Policy

Participant-Initiated Cancellations

If you decide to cancel your climbing, please notify Alpine Club of Himalaya as early as possible to minimize penalties. The cancellation charges are as follows:

·       Cancellations made 60 days or more prior to the scheduled departure will incur a 20% cancellation fee of the total trip cost.

·       Cancellations made between 30 and 59 days before departure will result in a 50% cancellation fee.

·       Cancellations made less than 30 days before the trip departure date will result in forfeiture of the entire payment.

Organizer-Initiated Cancellations

In rare cases where Alpine Club of Himalaya must cancel the Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition—due to extreme weather conditions, natural disasters, political instability, or safety concerns—participants will be offered either a full refund or the option to reschedule their climb for a later date without penalty.

Force Majeure Clause

Alpine Club of Himalaya cannot be held responsible for any additional expenses or losses incurred as a result of force majeure events. These include natural disasters (such as earthquakes or floods), political unrest, health emergencies, or other unforeseeable circumstances beyond the control of the organizer.

Detail Itineraries

Your Himalayan adventure begins as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. A friendly representative from Alpine Club of Himalaya will welcome you at the airport and assist you with all formalities before transferring you to your hotel in the heart of the city. After a refreshing rest, you will meet your climbing guide for a detailed briefing about the upcoming expedition. The orientation will cover your trekking route, daily schedules, safety protocols, altitude considerations, and essential gear required for the climbs. In the evening, you will enjoy a welcome dinner at a traditional Nepali restaurant, where you can sample authentic local cuisine and get to know your team members.

Max. Elevation

1,300m

Meals

Welcome Dinner

Trip Highlight

  • Scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, offering breathtaking views of the Himalayan range.
  • Trek through traditional Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, and prayer-flag-filled trails in the Khumbu region.
  • Stay in Namche Bazaar, the vibrant trading hub of the Everest region with rich Sherpa culture.
  • Visit Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual center of the Khumbu, surrounded by panoramic Himalayan views.
  • Acclimatization hikes in Namche and Dingboche with excellent viewpoints of Everest, Ama Dablam, and Lhotse.
  • Summit of Lobuche East Peak (6,119m) with spectacular views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and surrounding peaks.
  • Technical climbing experience using ropes, crampons, and ice axes under professional guidance.
  • Summit of Island Peak (6,189m), one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, with a thrilling ice headwall ascent.
  • Breathtaking panoramic views from Island Peak of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Baruntse.
  • Trek through the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its biodiversity and natural beauty.
  • Professional support and climbing expertise provided by Alpine Club of Himalaya for safety and success.
  • Immersive cultural experience with Sherpa traditions, monasteries, and Himalayan hospitality.
  • Opportunity to achieve two Himalayan summits in one expedition, ideal for aspiring climbers preparing for higher peaks.

Cost Include and Exclude

  • All airport and hotel pick-ups and drop-offs will be provided in a private vehicle.

  • 2 nights of comfortable lodging in Kathmandu at a 3- star hotel under a BB plan

  • A round-trip flight for Kathmandu Lukla and Lukla Kathmandu along with all departure taxes.

  • Experienced English-Speaking Trekking Guide and porter (2 trekkers-1 Porter) throughout the trekking

  • Three times meals at comfortable lodging in tea houses or lodges throughout the trek, offering a cozy retreat after your daily hikes.

  • All required permits for the trek, including Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and TIMS permits, ensuring compliance with regulations.

  • Experienced, government-authorized (licensed) high-altitude trekking/climbing Sherpa guide throughout the trekking and climbing period.

  • Clean, nutritious breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee from the tea house menu during the trek.

  • Twin-sharing tents for climbing member at advanced base camp

  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator available (charges may apply)

  • Helicopter rescue insurance for climbing staff.

  • Medical consultation services available at the base camp through the HRA clinic.

  • First aid medical kits provided for both the group and staff.

  • Allowance of up to 40 kg of personal climbing equipment per person, carried by porter/yak/mules during the flight and trekking.

  • Lobuche East and Island Climbing royalty and climbing permit charged by the Nepal government (issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association).

  • Wages, clinical, equipment, and accidental insurance for all staff involved in the climbing

  • First aid medical kits for the group and staff, ensuring health safety during the trek.

  • Clean, nutritious food at the advanced base camp, including high-altitude nutritional packages for those requiring high camps.

  • Medical, helicopter evacuation, and treatment insurance for all involved staff with a reputable insurance company.

  • Maps related to trekking and peak climbing.

  • Assistance with departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation, and visa extension procedures at no extra charge.

  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a cultural show in Kathmandu

  • Appreciation certificate from the Nepal Mountaineering Association for each participant.

  • T-shirt and appreciation certificate from Alpine Club of Himalaya

Equipment and Packaging List

Essential Climbing Equipment and Gear List

Clothing and Layering System

A proper layering system is essential for staying warm, dry, and protected throughout the Lobuche east and Island Peak expedition. Weather conditions can vary greatly between the lower trekking sections and the high-altitude summit.

Base Layers (Moisture-Wicking)

  • Two to three thermal tops (synthetic or merino wool recommended)
  • Two thermal bottoms

Mid Layers (Insulation)

  • One to two fleece or softshell jackets
  • One insulated jacket (down or synthetic) for cold conditions

Outer Layers (Waterproof and Windproof)

  • One waterproof and windproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or equivalent)
  • One pair of waterproof overpants (preferably with side zips for easy layering)

Climbing Layers for Summit Push

  • One expedition-grade down jacket (essential for summit night)
  • Down or insulated pants (recommended for additional warmth at high altitudes)

Footwear

Proper footwear is critical for both trekking and the technical climbing section of Island Peak.

  • Well-broken-in trekking boots with ankle support (waterproof)
  • Mountaineering boots (double boots highly recommended for summit day)
  • Lightweight shoes or sandals for use in teahouses and camps
  • Four to five pairs of warm wool or synthetic socks
  • Gaiters to prevent snow and debris from entering your boots

Headwear and Hand Protection

Protecting your head, hands, and face from cold, sun, and wind is essential at altitude.

  • Warm wool or fleece beanie
  • Sun hat or wide-brim trekking hat
  • Neck gaiter or Buff for wind and sun protection
  • Headlamp with extra batteries (a must for the early morning summit push)
  • High-quality UV-protection sunglasses (glacier-rated)
  • Ski goggles (optional, for high winds or snowfall during the summit)
  • Lightweight inner gloves
  • Insulated outer gloves or mittens for summit day

Technical Climbing Equipment

Technical gear is required for the glacier crossing and final ascent on fixed ropes. Most of this can be rented from Alpine Club of Himalaya in Kathmandu.

  • Climbing harness (mountaineering-specific and adjustable)
  • Helmet (UIAA or CE-certified)
  • Ice axe (sized appropriately for your height, typically 55–70 cm)
  • Crampons (compatible with your boots, anti-balling plates recommended)
  • Ascender (jumar) with safety leash
  • Belay or rappel device (e.g., figure 8 or ATC)
  • Two locking carabiners (screwgate or auto-lock)
  • One non-locking carabiner
  • Climbing sling or personal anchor system
  • Prusik cord or mechanical backup for fixed lines

Backpacks and Storage

Your gear will be split between what you carry and what is transported by porters or yaks.

  • Trekking backpack (50–65 liters) or a large duffel bag (porters carry this)
  • Daypack (30–40 liters) for carrying essentials and summit day gear
  • Dry bags or waterproof stuff sacks for organizing gear
  • Rain cover for your backpack

Sleeping Gear

Proper sleeping equipment ensures comfort and warmth at high-altitude camps.

  • Four-season sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C (-4°F), preferably -30°C
  • Sleeping bag liner (adds warmth and keeps your bag clean)
  • Inflatable or foam sleeping mat (Base Camp mats may be provided)

Hydration and Nutrition

Staying hydrated and fueled is key to performance and acclimatization.

  • Two to three water bottles (1-liter capacity, wide-mouth for freezing temps)
  • Insulated water bottle cover
  • Water purification tablets or filter (iodine, chlorine dioxide, or UV)
  • Thermos flask for hot drinks during summit night
  • Personal snacks like energy bars, dried fruit, trail mix, and gels

Personal Hygiene

Cleanliness and hygiene are essential for maintaining health during long expeditions.

  • Toothbrush and small toothpaste
  • Biodegradable soap and hand sanitizer
  • Wet wipes (no showers above Namche)
  • Quick-dry trekking towel
  • Lip balm with SPF
  • Sunscreen (SPF 50+ strongly recommended)
  • Toilet paper (must carry your own)
  • Pee bottle for cold nights (optional but convenient)

First Aid and Medication

Always carry personal medical supplies in addition to the group kit provided by your guides.

  • Diamox (Acetazolamide) for altitude acclimatization (consult your doctor)
  • Ibuprofen or paracetamol for headaches and muscle pain
  • Blister care (moleskin, Compeed, or blister plasters)
  • Rehydration salts or electrolyte tablets
  • Personal medications with copies of prescriptions
  • Basic first-aid kit (band-aids, antiseptic, tape)

Important Documents and Travel Essentials

Carry all required documentation and items needed for travel and permits.

  • Valid passport (must be valid for at least 6 months)
  • Nepal tourist visa (can be obtained on arrival or in advance)
  • Four passport-sized photos (required for trekking permits)
  • Travel insurance policy (must include high-altitude evacuation coverage)
  • Copies of passport, visa, and insurance
  • Cash in Nepali rupees (for lodges, tips, and purchases en route)
  • Small lockable bag for valuables at the hotel or Base Camp

Optional but Recommended Items

These items are not essential but can greatly enhance your comfort and safety.

  • Trekking poles (collapsible and adjustable)
  • Lightweight book, journal, or Kindle
  • Solar charger or power bank
  • Small sewing and repair kit
  • Lightweight binoculars
  • Earplugs for noisy teahouses
  • Camp shoes or slippers
  • Extra ziplock bags or garbage bags for organizing gear

Gear Rental in Kathmandu

If you prefer to travel light, Alpine Club of Himalaya offers high-quality climbing gear for rent, including mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and helmets. Renting is a practical and cost-effective option for many climbers.

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