Lhotse Expedition – 62 Days

Nestled at the border of Tibet and Nepal, Mt. Lhotse stands as a majestic behemoth, with its three summits – the main summit (8,516 meters/27,940 feet), Lhotse Middle (8,414 meters/27,605 feet), and Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters/27,503 feet) – beckoning the boldest of mountaineers to embrace the ultimate challenge.

The chronicle of mountaineering history resonates with the story of Lhotse’s conquest, which unfolded on May 18th, 1956, when Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland became the first to reach its summit. This historic achievement paved the way for future expeditions to test their mettle against this formidable peak.

Lhotse South Col Route Camps:

Khumbu Icefall:

While the Lhotse Expedition offers a demanding yet manageable trekking route beyond the Khumbu Icefall, this initial segment presents a formidable technical challenge. The icefall, characterized by steep glaciers, imposing crevasses, and unstable seracs, demands precise navigation amidst the constant threat of falling ice. Climbers also contend with high-altitude sickness risks and unpredictable mountain weather. Skilled climbing Sherpas, known as “Icefall enactors,” play a pivotal role, installing safety ladders across crevasses and serac walls. Early morning ascents are recommended for stability, as the icefall’s western aspect can heighten its difficulty later in the day.

Base Camp (5,200 Metes/17,060 Feet)

Situated at an elevation of 5,200 meters above sea level, Lhotse’s Base Camp serves as the pivotal starting point for the remarkable journey ahead. Here, mountaineers will reside for a basic as well as advance training. The Base Camp exudes a captivating beauty, framed by the towering peaks of Pumori, Lola, and Nuptse.

Camp I (5,900 Meters/19,357 Feet)

The journey to Camp I marks a pivotal phase in the ascent of the Southside route, and it necessitates specialized expertise due to the formidable Khumbu Icefall that lies in its path. Spanning 2,000 feet, this frozen expanse is a constantly shifting landscape, replete with treacherous deep crevasses, towering ice seracs, and the looming specter of avalanches cascading from Everest’s western shoulder.

During the active climbing period, the strategy revolves spending nights at Camp I to facilitate crucial acclimatization.

Camp II (6,400 Meters/20,998 Feet)

Nestled within a lateral moraine, Camp II emerges as a strategically positioned sanctuary at the base of Lhotse’s formidable West edge. This location offers exceptional protection and seclusion, all while providing awe-inspiring vistas of the grandeur that is Lhotse.

During the critical climbing period, every expedition organization establishes its primary climbing camp here. The camp boasts a comprehensive infrastructure, featuring individual tents for climbers, well-equipped kitchen facilities, and spacious dining tents. Camp II plays a pivotal role as the primary acclimatization hub, serving as the bridge between the Base Camp and higher altitudes.

Camp III (7,100 Meters/23,294 Feet)

The journey to Camp III presents a formidable challenge, especially considering the effects of high altitude experienced by climbers who have yet to utilize supplemental oxygen. Scaling the Lhotse Face demands a combination of skill and endurance, as this imposing ice wall features steep gradients and unyielding ice surfaces.

The well-established rope routes are indispensable for navigation, while the inclines can range from 30 to 45 degrees, demanding precision, and perseverance. The ascent to Camp III is a lengthy endeavor, one that necessitates prior acclimatization before embarking on the summit push.

Camp IV (7,925 Meters/ 25,984 Feet)

Camp IV welcomes climbers to an otherworldly realm, resembling the moon’s surface—a flat expanse adorned with loose rock and encircled by the imposing presence of Lhotse to the South. As the final camp on this arduous ascent, it is a destination accessible to a majority of climbers without the need for supplementary oxygen.

The journey to Camp IV is a test of determination and agility, involving two distinctive rock sections to conquer. First, there is the enigmatic Yellow Band, characterized by layers of marble, phyllite, and semi-schist rock formations. Next, climbers encounter the Geneva Spur, a strikingly anvil-shaped rib of black stone. Both of these challenging terrains are meticulously equipped with fixed ropes, enabling climbers to navigate these formidable obstacles safely and efficiently.

Summit: (8,516 Meters/27, 940 Feet)

The final leg of the ascent, spanning from Camp III to Camp IV, marks a grueling 11-16 hour passage. This section is where the Lhotse Face reveals its formidable character, with gradients ranging from 40 to 45 degrees, occasionally punctuated by challenging 80-degree bulges. Skilled climbing Mountaineering guides play a pivotal role in securing fixed ropes along this icy wall, ensuring the safety of climbers and porters. The route to the true summit features a moderate snow slope. 

Mt. Lhotse’s reputation as a formidable challenge has grown over the years, with its South Face gaining legendary status. This monumental face rises a staggering 3.2 kilometers and spans 2.25 kilometers in width, making it the steepest face of such dimensions globally. Its sheer verticality has earned it a place as one of the most rarely attempted climbs in the world.

Preparing for the Lhotse Expedition is an endeavor in itself. The journey begins with a scenic flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu region. From there, trekkers follow the well-trodden path through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, Lobuche, and finally Gorak Shep before reaching the Everest/Lhotse Base Camp at 5,200 meters.

The summit push typically follows a grueling schedule, starting from Base Camp, advancing through Camps I, II, III, and IV, culminating in a triumphant ascent to Lhotse’s pinnacle, and then descending back to Camp IV, III, II, I and finally, to Base Camp.

Embrace the challenge, face the awe-inspiring South Face, and etch your name among the brave people who have scaled Lhotse’s heights. The Lhotse Expedition is a test of skill, endurance, and determination, offering an unparalleled experience in the realm of high-altitude mountaineering.

For those who dare, Lhotse awaits – a formidable adversary, a stunning spectacle, and a testament to the indomitable spirit of human exploration. Be a part of this Expedition with the Alpine Club of Himalaya and turn your dreams into reality.

Entry Permits and Requirements:

The Lhotse Expedition requires the following permits:

1) Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and

2) Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit.

The Nepal Tourism Boards’ office in Kathmandu or the park’s entrance gate in Monjo can provide you with Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit for NRS 3000.

The fee for citizens of SAARC nations is NRS 1500.

You must complete the permission application and present your passport or a copy of your passport. You must be in Lukla to obtain the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit. The permission costs NRS 2000 and may be acquired at the rural municipality counter on the outskirts of the settlement.

3) Lhotse Expedition Climbing Fee: 

• Spring =  $ 11,000
• Autumn = $ 5,500
• Winter/ Summer = $ 2,750

You won’t have to worry about waiting for permits since the Alpine Club of Himalaya or our guides will take care of everything.

Meals and Drinking Water:

Everest region Trek is one of the most facilitatedtrekking destinations in the country, providing basic to luxury ones.

In this trial, you’ll be provided with a variety of cuisine to choose from. Nepali, Tibetan, Indian, western as well as continental meals. As the region has small tea houses to luxury hotels the facilities, they provide are basic to grandeur according to your budget. Try various traditional cuisine and popular snacks and delicacies renowned in the region.

Similarly, drinking water is accessible with natural water supplies which are untreated, so direct use of the water is not recommended, you may refill boiling water or cold filter water from any of the teahouses. However, if you buy a water purification tablet, chlorine drops or utilize SODIS (sunlight assisted) filtration procedures for further assurance, saving money and reducing plastic pollution.

Accommodation:

Accommodations are available in trekking lodges, and teahouses as well as several hotels all along the trail, providing basic well-maintained, reasonably luxury 5-star ones with additional needs according to your budget. Tea houses on the trail vary in quality and price, depending on the amenities they feature.

The tea house’s rooms have shared beds and some basic furniture like a small table or a chair. Normally, beds contain pillows and sheets and almost all tea houses provide extra blankets as it will be freezing at night. Usually, hot showers are available throughout the trek.

For trekkers who want to Camp, various campsites are available along the. From Base Camp, you will be accommodated in makeshift camps. 

Best Time to Visit?

The best season for trekking to Everest region is during the season of autumn and spring, the months of September, October, November, March, April, and May.

During the autumn season, the months of September, October, and November the weather is clear with warm temperatures and the visibility is great. As the weather is mild it’s very easy to get around the region.

The spring season of March, April, and May is also the best time to visit the Everest region, marking the end of the winter, the spring season brings a change in the topography of the region and the destination comes to life with endless rows of different colored rhododendron, moss, and orchid draped trees, colorful undergrowth stretching for miles and the snowy white mountains peaks on the backdrop of clear blue skies. 

Monsoon season is not favorable for trekking as the weather gets harsh and it’s hard to get around the country with frequent landslides and floods. So usually, monsoon season is avoided by trekkers.

In the winter season, the area receives a high amount of snowfall, covering most of the trail and access is denied to most of the regions of Everest, making it impossible to trek.

Travel Insurance:

All clients participating in any activity must have travel insurance. Personal injury, death, hospital expenditures, repatriation fees, and helicopter rescue. Any other disease covered by the insurance plan will be given. We highly advise you to acquire a comprehensive insurance plan from a trustworthy insurance company.

Passport and Visa:

Every client must have a valid passport from the return date with a 6-month prior validity by the Nepalese consulate in your country or the immigration office at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.