Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera & Island Peak Climbing - 25 Days

The Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak Climbing is one of the most thrilling and scenic high-altitude expeditions in Nepal, offering the perfect combination of remote alpine trekking and peak climbing. This 25-day adventure, operated by the Alpine Club of Himalaya, takes you through the heart of the Khumbu region – home to Everest – and provides the opportunity to summit two of Nepal’s most iconic trekking peaks: Mera Peak (6,654m) and Island Peak (6,189m). The route also includes crossing the challenging Amphu Lapcha La Pass (5,845m), known for its spectacular glacier crossings and panoramic Himalayan views.

This expedition is designed for climbers and trekkers seeking a serious Himalayan challenge in a less crowded setting. It offers unforgettable views of five of the world’s highest mountains: Everest (8,848m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Kanchenjunga (8,586m) — all visible from the Mera and Island Peak summits.

Your journey begins with a scenic mountain flight to Lukla, the main gateway to the Everest region. From Lukla, the trail heads south and gradually ascend through beautiful Himalayan forests, alpine meadows, and remote Sherpa villages before arriving at Mera Peak Base Camp via the Mera La Pass.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal and is considered a non-technical climb, although it requires good physical fitness and some glacier travel experience. The slopes are mostly gentle, not exceeding 40 degrees, but hidden crevasses and the final steep push to the summit demand focus and stamina. From the summit of Mera Peak, climbers are rewarded with a panoramic Himalayan skyline that includes some of the highest mountains on Earth.

After summiting Mera, the route leads into the remote Honku Valley, one of the most secluded and beautiful areas in eastern Nepal. The journey through Panch Pokhari (Five Sacred Lakes) offers spiritual tranquility and mesmerizing natural beauty. From here, the route ascends to the Amphu Lapcha La Pass, one of the most technically challenging high passes in the region. The pass involves fixed rope usage, glacier travel, and a careful descent into the Chhukung Valley.

This valley leads to the base of Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, a favorite among those trekking to Everest Base Camp. Island Peak offers a steeper and more technical climb than Mera, with rock scrambling, snow climbing, and a final ice wall before reaching the summit. The rewards at the top are unmatched – with up-close views of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Everest rising above the clouds.

Why Choose Alpine Club of Himalaya?

With over two decades of expertise in high-altitude trekking and climbing, Alpine Club of Himalaya is one of Nepal’s most trusted names in mountaineering. Our professional Sherpa guides are trained in altitude safety, rope handling, and rescue techniques, ensuring your journey is both safe and successful. We prioritize acclimatization, customized service, and ethical tourism practices in every trip we operate.

Is This Expedition Right for You?

This 25-day trek and climbing expedition is ideal for adventure-seekers in excellent physical condition, with prior high-altitude trekking experience. While Mera Peak is suitable for strong beginners with basic glacier travel skills, Island Peak and the Amphu Lapcha Pass require technical climbing elements, including the use of ropes, crampons, and ice axes. If you're looking for a serious Himalayan challenge and want to avoid the crowds of the classic Everest Base Camp route, this expedition is perfect for you.

Best Time for Climbing

The best time to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak and cross the Amphu Lapcha Pass is during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. These periods offer the most stable weather, clearer skies, and ideal climbing conditions.

• Spring Season (March to May):
  Spring is one of the most popular times for high-altitude trekking and climbing in Nepal. The weather is generally stable, with increasing temperatures as the season progresses. Rhododendrons bloom in the lower regions, and snow conditions are more predictable on the high passes and peaks. Visibility is excellent, offering uninterrupted views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and other Himalayan giants.
• Autumn Season (September to November):
  Autumn is widely considered the best season for this expedition. The skies are crystal clear after the monsoon rains, trails are dry, and the weather is cool but stable. October is the most favored month for summiting both Mera and Island Peaks due to minimal snowfall and better visibility on glaciers and ridgelines.

Avoid the monsoon season (June to August) due to heavy rainfall, slippery trails, and poor mountain visibility. Winter (December to February) brings harsh cold, heavy snow, and increased avalanche risk, making the Amphu Lapcha Pass extremely challenging and often impassable.

Difficulty Level

The Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak climbing is rated as challenging to strenuous. It is a high-altitude expedition that requires proper acclimatization, physical conditioning, and basic mountaineering skills. While Mera Peak is considered non-technical, Island Peak and the Amphu Lapcha Pass involve moderate to technical climbing with ropes, ice axes, crampons, and harnesses.

• Mera Peak (6,654m):
  Technically straightforward, with gradual slopes, but high elevation and crevasses demand alertness and stamina. Summit day can be long and physically demanding.
• Island Peak (6,189m):
  More technical than Mera. Includes steep rock scrambling, glacial traverses, ladder crossings, and a 100-meter ice wall near the summit. Prior experience with fixed ropes is beneficial.
• Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m):
  This pass is one of the most technical trekking passes in Nepal, requiring rope support and glacier travel. Descents on both sides involve use of fixed lines and guided navigation through ice and crevasse-prone areas.

Due to the combination of high-altitude trekking and technical alpine climbing, this expedition is best suited for experienced trekkers or novice climbers with previous high-altitude experience.

Physical Fitness & Requirements

Completing the 25-day Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak Climbing demands excellent physical fitness, endurance, and mental resilience. This is a strenuous, high-altitude expedition where trekkers regularly walk 6–8 hours per day, and summit days can stretch up to 10–12 hours of continuous movement over snow, ice, and rock.

Key physical requirements include:

• Cardiovascular endurance: The ability to hike for long hours at altitude with a loaded backpack
• Leg and core strength: For climbing steep ascents and navigating technical terrain
• Mental determination: Vital during summit days and glacier crossings
• Altitude experience: Prior trekking above 4,500m is highly recommended
• Technical familiarity: Basic training with ice axe, crampons, and harness is beneficial, especially for Island Peak and Amphu Lapcha Pass

We recommend a training plan 8–12 weeks before departure, including hiking, strength training, cardio, and flexibility work. If you’re unsure, Alpine Club of Himalaya also offers pre-trip guidance and altitude training support.

Weather Conditions and Forecast

The weather in the Khumbu and Hinku Valley regions, where Mera and Island Peaks lie, is notoriously unpredictable at high altitudes. Even during the best climbing seasons, conditions on the glaciers and passes can change rapidly, so understanding the typical weather patterns is crucial for safety and planning.

• Spring (March–May):
  Daytime temperatures at lower elevations range from 10°C to 15°C, but drop to -10°C to -20°C at high camps. Mornings are generally clear, while afternoons may see occasional snowfall.
• Autumn (September–November):
  The clearest weather of the year, with cold, crisp mornings and stable climbing conditions. Expect similar temperatures as in spring, with slightly colder nights in October and November.
• At High Altitude:
  At altitudes above 5,000m, temperatures can drop to -25°C, especially on summit days and during early mornings. High winds and whiteout conditions are possible near Amphu Lapcha Pass and the summits of both peaks.
• Forecast Monitoring:
  Alpine Club of Himalaya closely monitors weather forecasts through satellite updates and local contacts. We adjust climb schedules accordingly to ensure maximum safety and summit success.

Safety and Security 

Safety and security are the highest priorities during the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak climbing. Given the technical nature of the expedition and the remoteness of the route, Alpine Club of Himalaya maintains strict safety protocols and employs experienced guides to minimize risk at every stage of the journey.

• All treks and climbs are led by licensed, government-certified climbing Sherpas with years of high-altitude experience.
• We maintain a high guide-to-client ratio, ensuring personalized attention and proper monitoring of each participant’s condition.
• Satellite communication is available in emergency situations, along with first aid kits, oxygen cylinders, and pulse oximeters to track oxygen levels at altitude.
• Routes are constantly monitored for weather changes, avalanche risk, or pass closures.
• All climbers are given thorough briefings on safety procedures, including glacier travel, rope handling, and use of crampons, harnesses, and ice axes.

The region is considered safe from theft or political unrest. However, remote terrain and unpredictable weather are natural risks, which is why choosing a professional and experienced operator like Alpine Club of Himalaya is critical.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), is one of the most serious health concerns during high-altitude expeditions like the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak. As this trip involves extended time above 5,000 meters, proper understanding and management of AMS is essential.

Common symptoms include:

• Headache
• Nausea or vomiting
• Loss of appetite
• Shortness of breath at rest
• Fatigue or weakness
• Dizziness or sleep disturbances

If ignored, AMS can progress to more severe conditions like HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) or HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema).

At Alpine Club of Himalaya:

• Our guides are trained in altitude illness recognition and emergency response.
• We use pulse oximeters daily to monitor blood oxygen levels.
• Climbers showing symptoms are immediately assessed, and if necessary, descended to a lower altitude.
• In severe cases, emergency evacuation by helicopter is arranged.

Prevention is key. Climbers are advised to ascend gradually, stay hydrated, avoid alcohol, and follow the recommended acclimatization plan.

Acclimatization Requirement for a Safe Climb

The acclimatization process is a critical component of a successful high-altitude expedition. During the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak Climbing, the body needs time to adapt to lower oxygen levels at elevations exceeding 5,000 meters.

To ensure safe altitude gain and improve summit success, the Alpine Club of Himalaya’s 25-day itinerary is specifically designed with acclimatization days and gradual ascents. Key strategies include:

• "Climb high, sleep low" technique: Short acclimatization hikes from base camps before ascending further.
• Rest days at key elevations, especially around Khare (before Mera Peak) and Chhukung (before Island Peak).
• Sufficient time for hydration, rest, and gradual exposure to elevation changes.

Skipping acclimatization days or pushing too quickly increases the risk of altitude-related illness. Our guides enforce the schedule strictly, balancing ambition with safety.

Facilities and Camp Setup

During this 25-day adventure through remote and rugged Himalayan terrain, you will experience a mix of teahouse accommodations and fully equipped tented camps, depending on the region.

Teahouse Accommodation:

• Available in lower-elevation areas such as Lukla, Kothe, Thagnak, and Chhukung.
• Rooms are simple, twin-shared, with basic beds and blankets.
• Communal dining areas serve warm meals (Dal Bhat, pasta, soup, and hot drinks).
• Some locations may offer paid Wi-Fi or solar charging.

Tented Camp Setup:

• Used in remote sections like Mera High Camp, Amphu Lapcha Base Camp, and Island Peak High Camp.
• Alpine Club of Himalaya provides high-quality, weather-resistant mountain tents (2-person sharing).
• A kitchen tent, dining tent, and toilet tent are set up for group use.
• All meals are prepared by our trained trekking cooks and include hot drinks, soups, carbohydrates, and energy-rich snacks.
• Sleeping mats and foam insulation are provided for warmth.

Our support team handles all logistics, including camp setup, porters, kitchen staff, and waste management, ensuring a comfortable and responsible trekking experience even in high-altitude wilderness.

Lukla Flight and Alternatives

The trek to Mera and Island Peaks typically begins with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, a small mountain airstrip known as the gateway to the Everest region. However, weather conditions in Lukla are notoriously unpredictable, especially during early mornings and monsoon months.

To ensure smoother operations, Alpine Club of Himalaya offers the following options:

1. Kathmandu to Lukla Flight (via Ramechhap in peak seasons):
During peak seasons (spring and autumn), flights are rerouted to Manthali Airport (Ramechhap), about 4–5 hours from Kathmandu by road. From there, it’s a short 20-minute flight to Lukla.

2. Helicopter Option:
Private or shared helicopter flights can be arranged directly from Kathmandu to Lukla or even to Khare (near Mera Peak) for those wanting to bypass the busy domestic airports. This is a more expensive but faster and more scenic alternative.

3. Trekking from Jiri or Salleri (Drive + Trek):
Adventurous trekkers can opt for an overland journey starting with a jeep drive to Jiri or Salleri, followed by a 4–6-day trek to reach Lukla or Kothe. This route adds days to your trek but offers a quieter, more cultural approach route.

Alpine Club of Himalaya manages all logistics for Lukla flights, including rebookings due to delays or cancellations, ensuring a smooth start to your Himalayan expedition.

Meals During the Trek and Climb

All meals during the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak climbing are carefully planned to provide high energy and proper nutrition needed for high-altitude trekking and climbing.

In teahouse lodges, you’ll enjoy freshly cooked, warm meals served three times a day. Common menu items include:

• Breakfast: Porridge, pancakes, toast, omelets, boiled eggs, chapati, and tea/coffee
• Lunch & Dinner: Dal Bhat (rice, lentils, vegetables), pasta, noodles, potatoes, fried rice, soup, and seasonal greens

In tented camps (high camps), our expedition cook prepares hot and energizing meals. This includes soups, rice, pasta, lentils, and snacks designed to keep your energy up in extreme altitudes.

Special dietary requirements (vegetarian, gluten-free, etc.) can be accommodated upon request. Staying well-fed is vital for performance and recovery on such a physically demanding expedition.

Drinking Water Availability

Safe and sufficient hydration is essential at altitude. During the trek and climb, drinking water is always available and included in the package.

• In teahouse areas, boiled or filtered drinking water is provided.
• At higher altitudes and in tented camps, boiled water is supplied each day.
• Trekkers are encouraged to carry reusable water bottles or hydration bladders, along with water purification tablets or filters for backup.

Avoid bottled water to help preserve the fragile mountain environment and minimize plastic waste.

 Accommodation

Accommodation throughout the 25-day expedition is a mix of mountain teahouses and fully supported tented camps, depending on the location and altitude.

Teahouse Lodging:

• Twin-sharing rooms with basic beds and mattresses
• Shared bathrooms (western or squat toilets)
• Blankets provided (bring your own sleeping bag for warmth)
• Found in villages like Lukla, Kothe, Thagnak, Khare, and Chhukung

Tented Camps:

• High-quality 2-person expedition tents at high camps (Mera and Island Peak) and Amphu Lapcha base
• Sleeping mats and foam insulation provided
• Separate dining tent, kitchen tent, and toilet tent for group use
• Comfortable, warm, and organized by our experienced support team

The Alpine Club of Himalaya ensures clean, safe, and well-managed accommodation throughout the expedition.

Wi-Fi and Electricity Availability

Internet and electricity access are available in lower and mid-altitude areas, but become limited or unavailable as you approach high passes and base camps.

Wi-Fi:

• Available in teahouses in Lukla, Thagnak, and Chhukung (via Everest Link or similar paid services)
• Internet speed is basic—suitable for messaging or checking weather but not for streaming or uploads
• No Wi-Fi available at Mera High Camp, Amphu Lapcha base, or Island Peak High Camp

Electricity/Charging:

• Charging is available in teahouses for a small fee (usually $2–$5 per device)
• Power is usually solar or generator-based; bring a power bank or solar charger for backup
• No charging facilities at high-altitude tented camps—prepare accordingly

Staying connected is possible in the early days, but expect a digital detox at higher altitudes.

Guide and Porter Support

Every expedition with Alpine Club of Himalaya includes the support of a licensed mountain guide, climbing Sherpa(s), and porters to carry gear and logistics.

Guide and Climbing Sherpa:

• English-speaking, government-certified trekking and climbing guides
• Trained in high-altitude safety, first aid, rope techniques, glacier navigation, and rescue procedures
• Provide route navigation, instruction on climbing equipment, and summit guidance

Porters:

• Porters carry your duffel bag (up to 20kg), leaving you free to trek with a light daypack
• Ethical treatment of porters is a priority: fair wages, proper equipment, meals, and insurance provided

Having a strong, experienced support team is critical for success on a demanding trek like this.

Climbing Permits and Entrance Fees

Several official climbing permits and entry fees are required for the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing. All necessary permits are included in your package and are handled entirely by Alpine Club of Himalaya, so you don’t need to worry about paperwork or logistics.

Below is a breakdown of all required permits and their seasonal costs:

1. Mera Peak Climbing Permit (Issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association - NMA)

The permit cost for Mera Peak varies based on the season:

• Spring (March – May): USD 250
• Autumn (September – November): USD 125
• Winter (December – February): USD 70
• Summer/Monsoon (June – August): USD 70

2. Island Peak Climbing Permit (Also issued by NMA)

Similar to Mera, Island Peak permit fees are season-dependent:

• Spring (March – May): USD 250
• Autumn (September – November): USD 125
• Winter (December – February): USD 70
• Summer/Monsoon (June – August): USD 70

3. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

• NPR 3,000 (Approx. USD 23) per person
• Required for all trekkers entering the Everest (Khumbu) region

4. Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit

• NPR 3,000 (Approx. USD 23) per person
• Required for the Hinku Valley and Mera Peak approach

5. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Fee

• NPR 3,000 (Approx. USD 25) per person
• Collected by the local government for development and maintenance

6. TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System)

• USD 25 (Individual Trekkers)

Note: TIMS is sometimes waived for the Khumbu region, depending on current local policies. Your Alpine Club of Himalaya guide will handle this based on current regulations.

Note: Permit rates are subject to change based on decisions made by the Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), and other relevant tourism authorities.

Travel Insurance

Comprehensive travel insurance is mandatory for all participants joining the Amphu Lapcha Pass Trek with Mera and Island Peak climbing. Your insurance must cover high-altitude trekking and mountaineering up to at least 6,500 meters, which includes medical emergencies, evacuation by helicopter, trip cancellations, personal accidents, and loss or theft of belongings. Without valid insurance, you will not be allowed to participate in the expedition. We recommend choosing a provider that specializes in adventure travel insurance and offers 24/7 emergency assistance. Alpine Club of Himalaya can provide guidance on selecting a reliable travel insurance company suited for Nepal expeditions.

Passport and Visa Requirements

To enter Nepal, foreign nationals must hold a valid passport with at least six months' validity from the date of entry. A tourist visa is required and can be obtained on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu or through your nearest Nepalese embassy or consulate. Most trekkers opt for the 30-day visa, which costs USD 50, and can be extended if necessary. It’s essential to carry passport-sized photos and complete the visa application form upon arrival. Ensure you make a few photocopies of your passport and visa for trekking permits and emergency use during the expedition.

Final Notes

Before beginning your Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Expedition via Amphu Lapcha, it is essential to thoroughly test all your personal gear to ensure proper fit and functionality. Ill-fitting boots, malfunctioning headlamps, or missing gear can significantly impact your performance and safety, especially when operating in high-altitude, glaciated environments.

While you are expected to bring most of your personal clothing and equipment, some technical climbing gear—such as ropes, carabiners, and group equipment—may be provided by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we strongly recommend confirming with the team in advance which items are included in your package and which need to be brought or rented separately.

This expedition crosses two major peaks and a technical alpine pass, requiring a high level of physical preparation, mental resilience, and properly functioning equipment. Arriving well-prepared ensures not only your success but also the safety of the team.

Cancellation Policy

Participant-Initiated Cancellations

If you choose to cancel your Mera Peak and Island Peak Expedition via Amphu Lapcha, please inform Alpine Club of Himalaya in writing as early as possible. The following cancellation charges apply:

• Cancellations made 60 days or more prior to the scheduled departure will incur a 20% cancellation fee of the total trip cost.
• Cancellations made 30 to 59 days before departure will result in a 50% cancellation fee.
• Cancellations made less than 30 days before the scheduled departure date will result in forfeiture of the entire payment.

No refunds will be provided for unused services, missed days, or early return from the expedition due to personal choice, altitude sickness, or other health-related reasons.

Organizer-Initiated Cancellations

In the rare event that Alpine Club of Himalaya must cancel the expedition—due to extreme weather conditions, natural disasters, political instability, or safety concerns—you will be given the following options:

• A full refund of all payments made, or
• The option to reschedule your expedition for a future available date at no additional cost.

Every effort will be made to notify you of such cancellations well in advance.

Force Majeure Clause

Alpine Club of Himalaya shall not be held liable for any losses, delays, or additional costs incurred due to force majeure events, which include but are not limited to:

• Natural disasters (e.g., earthquakes, landslides, avalanches, or floods)
• Extreme weather or unforeseen climatic events
• Political unrest, strikes, or government-imposed restrictions
• Health emergencies or pandemics
• Delays or cancellations of flights or other transportation

These circumstances are beyond the control of the organizer, and participants are strongly advised to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that covers trip cancellation, medical evacuation, and high-altitude trekking and climbing.