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Short climb to Island Peak- 4 Days

Special Tour 4 days
Kathmandu 44600, Nepal Peak Climbing in 7000m, Nepal

Short climb to Island Peak: Trip Introduction

This 4 days trip is one of shortest climb to Island Peak designed for budget climbers from Chukhung to Island Peak and vice versa. Is a well-prepared itinerary including Island Peak base camp and high camp set up for two night before summit. It guarantees any climbers to achieve their dream expedition of Island Peak or known as Imja Tse, at 6189m, the famous peak in the Everest region of Nepal. If you wish for solo trekking trek to Everest BC or not planning for a full 15 days Island Peak expedition with Everest BC trek listed in our itinerary, you have this option to reach Island Peak.

You will meet our sherpa guide at Chukhung, at one of lodge mentioned to you before your trip starts from Kathmandu. Arrangement for climbing permit, sherpa and full board 3 days short expedition begins in Chukhung. We will provide camping accommodation, 3 meals, hot drinks, climbing ropes and sherpa to take you to the top of Island Peak. You can also hire full climbing gears set at Chukhung at one of the lodges at reasonable price ranging from USD 80-100 for all gears.

Mountaineering will be provided at Chhukung with detailed experienced as we are here to help you achieve your lifetime dream. At the top mark of your footprint, Island Peak is one of the best adventure dreams. It offers a great opportunity for people aged 18-75 years old, climbing 6173 meters. The difficult part is a mixture of rock and ice wall, after reaching the camp high on the hillside about 45 degrees and use crampons before the narrow crest. Nevertheless, Island Peak is definitely the right rewards for your great efforts.

From Jhu, Phaplu, Lukla after a long journey, Chhukung Island’s Peak can be added into any corner of the Everest region through different channels, such as Renjo La channels (5338m, Chola Pass 5420m, Kala Patthar 5545 and Kongma 5535 m), as well as the adventure mountain trekking, you also can see the villages and Sherpa monasteries that always in calm where you can have a clear memory of a walk before.

Find our team in Chhukung:
Before leaving Kathmandu, we will give you the mountaineering permit and also the details of the name of our staff waiting for you in Chhukung. Upload licenses and details of your name that will also be published by email so you can easily identify them.

Can you rent climbing equipments in Chhukung?
Yes, most people are able to rent climbing gears in Chhukung. Our staff will provide you assistance to climb the island, but the general mountain gears such as crampons, harness, ice axe, will provide the helical gear carabiners.

Include in the Cost

  • Island Peak Climbing guide service for 4 days
  • 2 lunch, 2 dinner, 3 breakfast, tea/coffee and two night tented camp, camping equipment with sleeping mattress
  • Climbing permit, garbage documents, a climbing certificate from NMA (Nepal Management Association)
  • Climbing rope (Fixed rope)

Not Include in the Cost

  • Climbing gears hire at Chukhung USD 100 to rent all gears at Chukung
  • Porter and personal expenses
  • Climbing insurance
  • Any meals and accommodation at Chukhung on 1st and 4th day of trip
  • Tips for climbing guide or porter

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Meet our Sherpa guide at Chukhung, plan trip, check gears. 

Day 02: Trek to Island Peak BC about 3-4 hours, climbing training-tented camp

Day 03: Trek to high camp or direct summit of Island Peak-Tented camp

Day 04: Attempt summit of Island Peak and back to Chukhung-Breakfast

Best Time to Climb Island Peak

For the Everest region as a whole, you can trek anytime between September and end of May. Given the height of Island Peak and the challenging conditions, we work with much smaller opportunity. Bad weather on the BC trek might be uncomfortable but on Island Peak it could be very dangerous. For safety climbing to Island Peak, we only run trips in mid September to November and March to May.

During these periods the temperatures are pleasant and most days are dry and sunny. Importantly during these periods, the strong winds that accompany the monsoon doesn’t appear and there are long periods of relatively calm which are ideal for climbing.

You can read all about it when is the best time to trek in the Everest region generally here and there is a lot more detail about the weather here.

About the route:
The Island Peak climb started following the classic trek to Everest BC (5,380m). The highlight of the first part of the trip is climbing KalaPattar (5,643m) which has stunning views of the Khumbu ice field, Pumori, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest’s north face. It provides great acclimatization for your attempt on Island Peak. If you are planning to climb Island Peak on a private trip you can consider the option of sleeping with an expedition team at Everest BC. This is great fun and also will help with acclimatization.

From Everest BC you head back down the Dudh Kohsi valley as far as Dingboche. You then turn up the Imja Khola valley towards Chukhung and Island Peak. Chukhung is the final teahouse stop before heading to BC for the ascent of Island Peak. You can hire all the gears you need for the climb in Chukhung, although the quality is sometimes could be poor here. If you want to be sure of the quality of gears, you have to rent in Kathmandu, but this mean a 16 days rent rather than a 4 days rent.

From Chukhung, we provide three days window to attempt the climb. At the first camp after Chukhung you will receive training in all the special techniques you requires and have time to practise until you are proficient.

If weather permitting, you will move the next day to the high camp to prepare for summit attempt. If the weather is unpleasant you can stay another day at this camp and wait for the weather to clear. The walk up to high camp is relatively straightforward and you should arrive in camp just after lunch.

From high camp, the ascent becomes steeper and more challenging. Initially it involves some steep switch backs and scrambling over rock before you reach the “crampon point” at the edge of the glacier. Conditions beyond this point have changed a lot in recent years, as a result of climate change and the earthquake in 2015.

Previously, climbers were faced with a straightforward crampon glacier crossing followed by a steep ascent of a headwall of about 150 metres. With a fixed rope set and a jumar, this was a physically demanding challenge but not too technical.

More recently, the glacier traverse has become much tougher, as a number of deep crevasses have opened up which have to be crossed on ladders.

You will have practice ladder crossings before your ascent, and you will be fully protected by ropes, but this is still a nervy moment as the crevasses are deep and the ladders wobbly. Try your best not to look down!

After that you have crossed the glacier to reach the headwall. The condition is very variable. Some years it is just frozen snow, but sometimes the snow has blown off leaving hard jagged ice.

In any event, our guides will lay fixed lines over the whole of this section and with a jumar and ice axe, the climbing is still not overly technical. However, to reflect the overall increased difficulty of the climb in the changing conditions, we now provide 1 guide/climbing sherpa for every 2 people.

Mountains and glaciers are dynamic places, and changes in the landscape are part and parcel of the experience.

After summiting, you descend to Island Peak BC and the rest of the trek follows the classic Everest base camp route back to Lukla via Namche.

Important Note

Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.


You will be accommodated in Alpine Hotel and Apartment or similar hotels in Kathmandu, standard teahouses during trekking and tents when climbing. Most teahouse accommodations will only have shared toilet facilities. For tent accommodation, foam mattress will be made available. In climbing section, toilet facilities will be provided with necessary natural preservation. All accommodations in Kathmandu and teahouses are on twin-shared basis whereas a single tent will be provided to each individual for the climbing section. We can cater to special request for a single room in Kathmandu by paying a single supplement of USD 310. However, there are several teahouses on the trekking route that doesn’t allow single room accommodation. On paying a single supplement, you will get a single room in Kathmandu however sometimes it is feasible only in the trekking areas of the lower elevations.


During the trip, you can enjoy Nepali, Tibetan, Indian as well as more common continental cuisines. Breakfast (only) will be provided during your stay in Kathmandu whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) will be available during the trek and climb. While trekking, breakfast will be taken in the same place we stay the night. Similar arrangements can also be arrange for dinner. Lunch will be taken en route to the next destination. During climbing session, hygienic and freshly-cooked food will be provided. There will also be welcome and farewell dinners in Kathmandu.


Day 01: Meet our Sherpa guide at Chukhung, plan trip, check gears. 

Around 4 pm, you will meet your sherpa guide at one of Chukhung lodge (meeting point will be provided before trip start in Kathmandu). After meeting, you will first check, reconfirm your climbing gears. You could rent full gears at Chukhung. After that, discuss on trip preparation with guide for next day trek.

*Please note no meals and accommodation are included in package today. 

Meals- No


Day 02: Trek to Island Peak BC about 3-4 hours, climbing training-tented camp

After breakfast we will start trekking to Island Peak BC which will takes 3-4 hrs. Upon reaching the BC, we do some basic training to use gears, ropes etc. Acclimatization day at BC.

*3 meals and tented camp is included

 Meals- Breakfast, lunch and Dinner 


Day 03: Trek to high camp or direct summit of Island Peak-Tented camp

Today, depend on weather and physical condition of climbers. Our Sherpa guide can either push direct summit to Island Peak from BC or set up high camp for one more night.

*3 meals and tented camp is included

 Meals- Breakfast, lunch and Dinner 


Day 04: Attempt summit of Island Peak and back to Chukhung-Breakfast

Early morning around 4am will start climbing and reach summit by 8 am. It takes about 4-5 hour to reach the top of Island Peak and back to Chukhung on same day. *Breakfast is included

 Meals- Breakfast



1 Review

  1. avatar
    Samoriya Bista
    8:41 pm - July 25, 2020 / Reply

    Great agency to organize an Island Peak .


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