We offer expeditions to Everest via either the South Col route following the footsteps of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay or via the North Ridge from Tibet. Statistically, climbers attempting Everest via the South Col have a higher chance of success, mainly due to having to spend less time above 8,000m, compared to on the North Ridge. Crucially, a shorter period of settled weather is required on the South side of the mountain and the climb is less exposed to high winds.
The ascent route begins at base camp with a short walk along the moraine that leads to the ice fall. The ice fall is a glacier that is heavy with large seracs and crevasses. The ice fall is fixed and maintained with rope and ladders all the way to Camp I by a team of sherpas. From Camp I to Camp II the terrain is gradual with a few crevasses. From here the air is much thinner as we make our way up the Lhotse face with mixed snow and ice to Camp III. From Camp III to the South Col the climbing is on easy to moderate mixed snow and rock leading to the South Col- Camp IV. Summit day starts around 11:00pm the same day up fixed ropes on mixed snow and rock to the south summit, then a short traverse to the Hillary step then all up here to the summit arriving around 9:00am. The decent from the summit to the South Col takes 3-5 hours.
Important Note :
Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.
Day 1 Arrival KATHMANDU (1300m/4265ft)
Arrive at Kathmandu International Airport where you will be warmly welcomed by our representative and check in to the hotel. The rest of the day is free to explore this historic and vibrant city. Overnight at hotel Encounter Nepal. Meals: NO
Day 2 Acclimatize KATHMANDU
After breakfast we depart the hotel for a full-day sightseeing tour of Kathmandu, the “city of glory.” We visit Durbar (Palace) Square, the epicenter of religious and cultural life, an area filled with old temples and historical significance with old glorious Newari architecture. Some of the sights include Kal Bhairav, Hanuman Dhoka, Taleju Temple, Kasthamandap and Kumari Ghar; home to the Living Goddess. Afterwards we visit Swoyambhunath Stupa, said to be one of the oldest Buddhist stupas in the world, which is majestically set high on a hill overlooking Kathmandu Valley. We proceed towards Pashupatinath Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This massive temple complex sits alongside the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Only Hindus are allowed to enter the courtyard of the temple, whereas tourists can see the temple from the eastern side of the Bagmati River. Later we visit Boudhanath, a Buddhist Stupa said to be one of the largest in the world. This massive structure stands tall with four pairs of eyes each facing the four cardinal directions, watching for righteous behavior of mankind and for human prosperity. Welcome dinner in the evening. Overnight at Hotel. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch,Welcome Dinner
Day 3 Fly to LUKLA (2800m/9187ft); trek to PHAKDING (2610m/8563 ft) 2-3 hours trek; 200m descent, 50m ascent
Early morning flight from Kathmandu International Airport to Lukla Airport and trek to Phakding. Descending above farmlands we pass through Sherpa villages of Chheplung, Ghat and Sano and Thulo Gumela and shrines and monasteries of Drangdrak Gompa and Pema Choling Gompa with breathtaking views of sacred mountain Kumbila and sister summits Kusum Kanguru peaks. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 4 Trek to NAMCHE (3420m/11221ft) 5-6 hours/1000m ascent, 100m descent
Heading for the Namche Bazar, we cross through the hamlet of Zamphute and Tok Tok to see dazzling Thamserku glistening in the sun that stays all the way with us in most of our trek. Passing through the scenic Sherpa villages of Benkar, Chumoa and Monjo, we reach Utche Choling Gompa on a bluff abutting the Dudhkoshi river and further we make our way between the bluff to the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO declared world heritage site. Completing halfway to Namche Bazar, we head for the second half of the march that would likely to take more time due to steep climb at the end. Crossing through the last village of Jorsale, a steep stepped path leads us to an amazing high bridge over the Dudhkoshi River gorge and just before this bridge, the Dudhkoshi is met by its tributary, the BhoteKoshi. Beginning the final steps uphill slowly we reach heights of Namche from where we can have first look at Mt. Everest, peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge and finally after about 1.5km/0.9mile) we reach Namche Bazar. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 5 Acclimatize at NAMCHE
We have an acclimatization day at Namche Bazar. To help our body better adapt to the high altitude, we can take short walks or climb few hundred feet during the day to have a look in the villages, houses, terraced fields and snowy mountains of Kwangde, Khumbu peak, Thamserku, Kusum Kanguru and the village’s big weekly event, the Saturday market to have fun mingling with the crowds and watching men and women in traditional attire.Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 6 Trek TENGBOCHE (3870m/12697ft) 4 hours; 350m descent, 750m ascent
From Namche we take the easy level trail that cuts around the ridge from Chhorkung to reach the end of a bluff which is a viewpoint over a grand panorama of peaks, from Thamserku to Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest. From here we reach Kyangjuma (3550m) and a short walk from there takes us to animportant trail junction at Sanasa (3600m) from where we take the trail to Tengboche that runs gently downhill towards the river. This trail drops gradually to Lawichasa and on our descending way the thumb like peak of Ama Dablam soars into view above the trail. From Lawichasa a narrow trail branches north to reach Tashinga (3380m) and now the trail drops down on steep stone steps to Phunki Thenga (3250m) and then to a bridge. From the bridge the trail climbs past some water powered prayer wheels and begins a sustained climb through a forest of tall, mature rhododendrons. We might see musk deer and Himalayan tahr among the trees to eventually follow the path that reach a kani and a pair of chortens marking the start of Tengboche village which is scattered across a wide, grassy saddle below a crescent shaped ridge covered by scrub pines and rhododendrons. The focal point of Tengboche is the famous Tengboche monastery. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 7 Trek DINGBOCHE (4360m/14305ft) 3-5 hours; 70m descent, 580m ascent:
From Tengboche we follow the trail through a forest of conifers and rhododendrons, keeping an eye out for monal pheasants and musk deer that leads us to a village of Debuche where we vsit Debuche Gompa which has some expressive old thangkas and murals painted on wooden panels. Debuche also has a small Buddhist nunnery on the east hillside. The trail continues through dense forest to reach Milinggo and then drops steeply to a suspension bridge over Imja Khola. We cross the bridge and climb the hillside opposite to a white stupa with Buddhist eyes and after a hundred yards we see a stupa that crowns an exposed bluff, mirroring the soaring tower of Ama Dablam at the end of the valley. East of the stupa is a footprint of Khumbu’s patron Saint Lama Sange Dorje. We soon reach Pangboche village that has the oldest monastery in Khumbu, Pangobche Gompa founded by Lama Sange Dorje. Following the Imja Khola the trial climbs towards the village of Shomare and crossing the treeline beyond this village we are walking up rolling arid stretch, an alpine terrain with patches of scrub and isolated pastures and fields and the yak grazing. Crossing through the yak pasture and herdsmen’s stone huts at Orsho and Tsuro Wog, we turn right where the trail descends to a point near the confluence of Imja Khola and Khumbu Khola. Finally climbing a low ridge we reach the sprawling settlement of Dingboche which is a cold and windy place with sub-zero night temperatures even in summer. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 8 ACCLIMATIZATION DAY walking to CHHUKUNG VALLEY (4710 meters) and trek back to Dingboche. 4 hours.
Today we make a trip to Chhukung valley via the Imja Khola valley to get a marvelous view of the surrounding mountains, especially Lhotse’s massive south wall, then return to Dingboche in the evening. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 9 Trek to LOBUCHE (4910 meters) 5 hours.
The trail continues along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and passes by stone memorials of climbers who have perished on nearby summits.Continuing the climb we head to the altitude of 4910 meters at Lobuche. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 10 Trek to GORAK SHEP (5180 meters) then hike up to KALA PATTHAR (5545 meters) back to Gorak Shep. 7 hours.
Most of this day is spent climbing Mt. Kala Patthar, a small peak at 5545 meters. The ascent is demanding but the climber gets the most magnificent mountain panorama possible: Everest, the highest point on the planet at 29028ft, 8848meters, towers directly ahead and on all sides loom the other giants, Nuptse, Pumori, Chagatse, Lhotse and countless others. If possible we can stay and watch the awe-inspiring sunset on Everest and its neighbours. We make a quick descent to Gorak Shep, a tiny hamlet at 5180 meters. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 11 Trek to EVEREST BASE CAMP (5365 meters), 4 hours.
Contouring along the valley side, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble. After about 4 hours we eventually reach base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall where we fix tents for our few weeks stay. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 12 to Day 15 ACCLIMATIZATION & PREPARATION FOR CLIMB
We set about acclimatizing and learning the specialist skills needed for the mountain, such as how to use the oxygen and the radios. We will also hone our equipment and clothing requirements for the mountain, and set aside the food we want to eat in the upper camps (as this will be pre-placed for us by the Sherpa.)
In between times, we rest and get used to the altitude without undue exertion, as experience has shown this is the best way to prepare. We aim to make base camp as comfortable as is reasonably possible, with a heated, triple-skin mess tent, individual tents for each climber to sleep in, broadband internet connection and satellite telephones.
Before venturing into the Khumbu Icefall, we will practice secure movement through complex ice terrain including the use of the ladders and fixed rope. We do this locally, in base camp and on the ice columns found at the lower edge of the icefall. As soon as the route through the Icefall is prepared and after the training in base camp, we will have our first go at the icefall, with the aim of getting halfway through and back in time for mid-morning in base camp. Then, we will progress higher until we know we can get through the icefall and all the way to Camp 1 in a reasonable time.
Whilst we are getting accustomed to the ropes, ladders and altitude, the Sherpas will be running loads through the icefall, into the Western Cwm and beyond. Overnight at tented camps. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 16 to Day 60-CLIMB FROM BASE CAMP TO THE TOP OF MOUNT EVEREST and RETURN TO BASE CAMP.Overnight at tented camps. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camp 1: 20996ft. (6,400m.)
The camp 1 is situated at an elevation of 6400m on horizontal area of deep snow covered by mountain walls. The area is warm due to sun’s reflection during the day and in the night we happen to listen the deep murmuring cracking sounds of crevasses beneath our tent.
Camp 2: 22145ft. (6,750m.)
Camp 2 is set at the foot of the icy Lhotse wall at an altitude of 6,750m. Cloudy but can expect pleasant weather here.
Camp 3: 23292ft. (7,100m.)
Camp 3 is based at the height of 7100m and this place is adjacent to Lhotse wall at 1220m, which can be ascended using fixed rope and we eventually reach camp 4. On the way to camp 4, climbers need to go through the steep allow bands (lose, down -slopping and rotten limestone). As we cross short snowfield, the route takes them up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. Beyond camp 3, some climbers may possibly feel minor discomforts necessitating use of oxygen.
Camp 4: 27560ft. (8,400m.)
This is the last camp of the Expedition which is fixed at the height of 8,400meters. This portion of the climb is considered risky and from here the summit is just 450meters. The Narrow South – East Ridge is taken as the normal best way to attain the South Summits 8,750meters and from here it is easy to reach at the summit of the Everest 8,848meters. We plan to be on the summit in the early morning, with plenty of time to make the long descent to the South Col. After spending another night sleeping with oxygen, the team will descend from camp 4 directly to camp 2 and then, the next day, to base camp.
Day 61 Trek down to PANGBOCHE (3930 meters) 7 hours.
Pangboche has the oldest monastery in the region which contains what is said to be the scalp and bones of a Yeti. Overnight at Guesthouse. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 62 Trek back NAMCHE BAZAR
From Pangboche we move towards Phunki Tenga and now descend to Sanasa and Kyangjuma and then finally to Namche Bazar. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 63 Trek back LUKLA
Our final day’s trekking follows the Dudh Kosi down to Lukla retracing the way we came up. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 64 Fly back KATHMANDU
Fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu and drop to the hotel. This is a leisure day which can be utilized buying gifts and souvenirs for your friends and family. In the evening you will be invited to join FAREWELL reviewing great photos and share experiences of the trip. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Farewell Dinner
Day 65 Leisure day in KATHMANDU
It’s also spare day in case of bad weather in Lukla. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 66 Fly back HOME or extend your HOLIDAYS
If you prefer to stay longer, you can consult us for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, mountain biking, Tibet, India or Bhutan tours etc. Meals: Breakfast
Fill up the form below to tell us what you're looking for