Mera Peak Climbing And Amphu Labcha Pass – 23 Days

23 Days

The large number of Himalayan Peaks on the vicinity of highest mountain of the world has always been a great attraction to the mountain climbers. Mera Peak (6344m/20815ft) stands to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. Mera is among the highest of Nepal’s official ‘trekking peaks’. It lies in the Khumbu Himalayan Range. This peak is located south of Everest in the Hinku valley and is relatively easier to climb than most other peaks. Besides the charm of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to base camp from Lukla is rewarding to experience rare un-spoilt regions of Nepal with densely forested hillsides.

With the unparalleled views and stunning panoramas, it makes this trekking peak one of the most sought after mountaineering trips in Nepal. Mera Peak is suitable for novice climbers as the difficulty is not in the climb itself, but in dealing with the effects of altitude. The panorama takes in Kanchenjunga, Chamlang and Makalu to the east, while to the north Everest, the unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/ Lhotse ridge are visible. To the west Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu, what is undoubtedly one of the most glorious views in the whole of Nepal.

This itinerary is designed best to those who have some kind of previous experiences in high altitudes over 5965m/19572ft and are habitual for walking 7-8 hours in a day which allow us to walk a very long distances with required amount of high altitudes acclimatizing. Also the itinerary goes though the nice mountain valley and various geographical elevations.

  • Private vehicle / Flights
  • Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Kathmandu, Nepal
  • All meals while climbing/trekking days and rest of the days breakfast only
  • 3 Nights Hotel stay in Kathmandu; 3 Nights in Guest House; 16 Nights in Tented Camps
  • 6,344m (20,815ft) at Mera Peak
  • Grading 5
  • Trekking/Climbing for 19 Days
  • March-May and Sep-Nov

Essential Personal Climbing Gear:

  • Alpine Climbing Harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • Ascender
  • Multi-LED Head Lamp
  • Karabiners
  • Rappel device
  • Ski poles
  • Slings
  • Climbing helmet

Clothing

Upper Body:

  • One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
  • Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
  • One polar fleece pullover, medium weight.
  • One polar fleece jacket.
  • One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable jacket with a large hood to accommodate a climbing helmet.
  • Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
  • One very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you prefer, for high altitude use.

Hands:

  • One pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves.
  • One pair of mittens consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner

Heads:

  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Scarf or neck sleeve
  • Face mask
  • Ball cap or brimmed sun cap
  • Glacier Sunglass with side shields

Lower Body:

  • One pair of walking shorts for trekking
  • Two pair Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
  • One pair of Icebreaker Merino 200-weight thermal bottoms
  • One pair of polar fleece trousers
  • One pair of Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
  • One pair of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)

Feet:

  • One pair One-Sport Millet climbing Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners; good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy socks.)
  • One pair of sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support for the walk to advanced base camp
  • Two Pairs of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
  • Two pairs of lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
  • Light Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in-town.

Rucksacks and Travel Bags:

  • One medium rucksack (50-70 liters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry).
  • One large (120 L / 7500 cubic inches) duffle kit bag for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack porter.

Sleeping Gear:

  • For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –25 C (-30 F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;

Overview

Important Note : 

Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.

Trip Highlight

  • Take in fantastic mountain views
  • Meet local people as you travel
  • Panoramic view of Mera Peak and Amphu Labcha
  • Scenic flight to Lukla and return
  • Explore Everest

Itinerary

Arrive at Kathmandu International Airport where you will be warmly welcomed by our representative and check in to the hotel. The rest of the day is free to explore this historic and vibrant city. Meals: Welcome Dinner

After breakfast we depart the hotel for a full-day sightseeing tour of Kathmandu, the “city of glory.” We visit Durbar (Palace) Square, the epicenter of religious and cultural life, an area filled with old temples and historical significance with old glorious Newari architecture. Some of the sights include Kal Bhairav, Hanuman Dhoka, Taleju Temple, Kasthamandap and Kumari Ghar; home to the Living Goddess. Afterwards we visit Swoyambhunath Stupa, said to be one of the oldest Buddhist stupas in the world, which is majestically set high on a hill overlooking Kathmandu Valley. We proceed towards Pashupatinath Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This massive temple complex sits alongside the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Only Hindus are allowed to enter the courtyard of the temple, whereas tourists can see the temple from the eastern side of the Bagmati River. Later we visit Boudhanath, a Buddhist Stupa said to be one of the largest in the world. This massive structure stands tall with four pairs of eyes each facing the four cardinal directions, watching for righteous behavior of mankind and for human prosperity. Overnight at hotel. Meals: Breakfast

The journey begins from Kathmandu to Lukla by plane. This airstrip is simply amazing which takes about half an hour to reach there. We start our trek down from Lukla. It makes sense to fly up to Lukla for acclimatization and walk down. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills, we gradually reach the vicinity of Puiyan. We can have the pleasure of witnessing numerous peaks from here such as Knogde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and other peaks above 7 thousand meters. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

After crossing the Puiyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma. We can not miss the outstanding views of Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kund Himal before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangkongama for night’s rest. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

With fine views westwards towards Takshindu Monastery and Lamjura, we make our ascend through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. On the way up to the Pangkongma La, it is worth detouring via the Pangkongma Monastery for a guided visit. From the pass, we can have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

The trail gets steeper as we climb up to the Surke La gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery. Eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka, set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokhari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Today, we may have a well-earned rest day, though for those feeling fit, there is a rewarding walk up to a hanging corrie lake behind the camp. This has good views and helps aid acclimatization. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

We set off from Chunbu Kharka and climb steeply uphill for 20 minutes or so, before contouring around high above the Hinku Valley. We then make a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron to eventually arrive on the valley floor, where we cross to the west bank of Hinku River by a wooden bridge at Khote. Khote is now quite a large settlement of lodges that have been built over the past 10 years. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Today, we follow the west bank of the riverbed up the valley to Thangnak. A magnificent, towering mountain, known by its survey name of Peak 39 or on some maps, “Kayashar “, dominates the head of the valley. The trail leads steadily up the side of the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley. Finally, we reach Thangnak, which has grown into a small hamlet of tea-shops and lodges since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Today, we walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka, close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier. This is a pleasant, grassy camp in an impressive situation. We head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish us throughout our life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from our campsite at Khare. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Acclimatizing does not, of course, mean staying inside and having rest all day. It is important to take short leisurely walks during the day, or climb few feet, to help our body better adapt to the high altitude. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

This is an exciting day as we climb onto the Mera Glacier and follow it to the pass. This is a superb high mountain setting and is a worthwhile objective in itself. We need to walk through rock-strewn area for about two hours to make our way to Mera High Camp. The trail can be hazardous if it has recently snowed as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp and from here the sunrise and sunset can be view along with the Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse are outstanding and seems like they are piercing the skyline. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb. Our reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as we survey the magnificent panorama from the top. From the summit, can be seen the spectacular views of Mt. Everest (8848m/29030ft), Cho Oyu (8210m/26937t), Lhotse (8516m/27941ft), Makalu (8463m/27767ft), Kangchenjunga (8586m/28170t), Nuptse (7855m/25772ft), Chamlang (7319m/24013ft), Baruntse (7129m/23390ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22350ft), Kangtega (6779m/22241ft) and many peaks over six thousands meters. After achieving the summit, we retrace our steps down to high camp. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Our mission is fulfilled so we can take it slow. This is a spare day to allow for bad weather or for additional summit attempts. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

We commence our summit day in the early morning and end up with a 100m (328ft) ascent with rope and ice climbing to reach the summit. The magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8848m/29030ft), Cho Oyu (8201m/26907ft), Lhotse (8516m/27940ft), Makalu (8463m/27766ft), Kangchenjunga (8586m/28169ft), Nuptse (7855m/25770ft), Lubuche (6145m/20160ft), Chamlang (7319m/24013ft) are spectacular from the summit. We then retrace our steps to Mera Base Camp. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

From the Mera La we descend into the Hinku valley. After about few hours we stop for some rest by a lake and then continue to the Hinku river, which we follow for another few hours to yet another spectacular campsite by the ‘White Lake’/Lampokhari near Chamlang. Amphu Lapcha is the pass most commonly crossed for expeditions climbing both Mera and Imja Tse (Island Peak). Mera is often climbed first as it is technically easier peak. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Starting from the South base of Amphu Lapcha, we start from an early morning climb. The precipitous crest of the Amphu Lapcha is one of the most dizzying and dramatic crossings in the Himalaya.The climb involve steep sections on rock and ice. It’s better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable, i.e., before sunlight melts the snow. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. Reaching at the Amphu Lapcha North Base Camp, we camp and spend the night there. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

We walk downhill along the moraine to arrive at Chukkung, the starting point for the Island Peak. The wilderness of the remote Hinku Valley now introduces us to the civilization of Khumbu Region. The Imja Khola joins the Dudh Koshi river a little above the Pangboche Village. There is a famous monastery at Pangboche believed to have been the oldest in the Khumbu region. To reach Pangboche after a few long days of hard mountaineering and trekking is a delight. Overnight in Guest House. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Followed by climb gradually up to Tengboche (3870m) where the biggest monastery lies in the whole of Khumbu. We walk down from the rear of monastery and continue down until we reach Phunki Tenga. Climb up gradually through a forest. Once we are out of the forest, we will be walking along a ridge from where we can see down on our left some of the deepest gorges of Nepal. In spring, the rhododendrons will look superb making the valley even more beautiful. We reach Namche Bazaar for overnight. Overnight in Guest House. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

The trek from Namche to Lukla follows the Dudhkoshi down to Lukla. It’s an easy run through Bengkar and Phakding to Lukla. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party to the Sherpa guides and porters. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

We fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu and are dropped to the hotel. This is a leisure day which can be utilized buying gifts and souvenirs for your friends and family. In the evening you will be invited to join FAREWELL reviewing great photos and share experiences of the trip. Overnight at hotel. Meals: Breakfast, Farewell Dinner

If you prefer to stay longer, you can consult us for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, mountain biking, Tibet, India or Bhutan tours etc. Meals: Breakfast

Cost Include

  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both domestic and international flights as per itinerary.
  • 3 Night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast. 3* and Twin Sharing
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude climbing and trekking guides during the trekking and climbing period
  • Schedule flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu to all the climbing members and climbing guides.
  • 3 meals a day, breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee available in the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trek.
  • Professional porters with proper safety equipment and walking equipment, his salary, food, accommodation, and insurance (one porter for two people).
  • Trekking permit (Sagarmatha national park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Climbing permit of Nepal government to climb Mera Peak & Amphu Labcha.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Use of sleeping bag, down jacket, duffel bag, and walking poles (if you don’t have your own, to be returned after trip completed).
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high-altitude staff.
  • Trekking and climbing map of Mera peak.
  • Our service charge and government taxes are levied in Nepal.
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Alpine Club of Himalaya T-shirt.
  • Oxygen meter to check your pulse and oxygen saturation and heart rate twice daily (Very useful to check Altitude Mountain Sickness symptoms which will ensure your health during the trek.
  • Kathmandu City tour including Entrance fee, Guide & Vehicle
  • Ncell Sim Card (Nepalese Sim Card including 20 GB data pack) - Only 1 for a group.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, health bars.
  • Items of personal nature - laundry expenses, tips.
  • Rescues, repatriation, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (easy to obtain the visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport – Kathmandu). $30 USD for a 15-day visa.
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Tips for the guide, porter, and driver (tipping is expected)

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Mera Peak Climbing And Amphu Labcha Pass – 23 Days
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