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Mera & Island Peak via Amphu Lapcha Pass – 28 Days

everest
Daily Tour 28 day Availability: 2019-01-01
Kathmandu 44600, Nepal Peak Climbing Below 7000m
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Overview

Mera (6476m) & Island Peak (6189m) are two of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal that can be climbed without previous mountaineering experience, though there are several steep sections that must be conquered using ropes, ice axes and crampons. This generous itinerary ensures proper acclimatisation das and attempts on both mountains with a trek through the remote Honku Valley and a crossing of the spectacular and difficult 5845m Amphu Lapcha Pass. Being slightly to the south of the main range, Mera offers spectacular views from Kangchenjunga in the east to the Langtang region in the west. Island Peak is situated right in the heart of the Khumbu area and although it is dwarfed by the enormous Lhotse Face to the north, the views from the summit are truly exceptional.

Important Note : 

Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.


DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION
Kathmandu International Airport(Google Map)

Trip Fact
  • Price: USD 0
  • Activities: Trekking/Climbing for 24 Days
  • Duration: 28     Days
  • Expedition Style: Active
  • Accommodation: 3 Nights Hotel Stay in Kathmandu; 3 Nights in Guest House ; 21 Nights in Tented Camps
  • Meals: All meals while climbing days and trekking days rest of the days breakfast only
  • Transportation:Private vehicles/Flights
  • Service Level:Standard
  • Altitude:6,476m (21,241ft) at Mera Peak
  • Expedition Grading:5

 


COST INCLUDED & NOT INCLUDED
  • All airport/hotel pick up and drop in private car/van
  • 3 Nights in Hotel Peak Point in Kathmandu including breakfast
  • 12 Nights stay in Lodge/Guest House during trek.
  • An experienced English speaking Trekking Guide and a Porter during trek.
  • Salary, food, insurance and lodging cost for guide and porter
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Tea/Coffee during trek.
  • Welcome and Farewell Meals and Breakfasts while in Kathmandu.
  • National Park Permit and TIMS for Everest.
  • Air fare from Kathmandu to Lukla and return flight to Kathmandu and domestic flight departure taxes.
  • Down Jacket and Sleeping Bag that needs to be returned to office after trek completion.
  • ACH Kitbag and T- shirt for you
  • Nepal entry visa fees.
  • International airfare and departure tax.
  • Bar bills, laundry and other expenses of personal nature.
  • Travel insurance including evacuation.
  • 1 Lunch in Kathmandu
  • Tips for local staffs, guides and porters.

Departure Date

  The given cost are per person and exclude international flights. Given below are the departure dates available for online booking. If the given date is not favourable then please contact us and we will customize your trip on dates you preferred  
Departure DateImportant NoteGallery

Availability

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  • Guaranteed Trip is Guaranteed to Run
  • Limited Space Trip is Guaranteed to Run, but with only limited spaces. Please contact us
  • Close Trip full or unavailable But we can open new departure so please contact us
Highlights
Your safety is of paramount importance to us at Alpine Club of Himalaya. We have the absolute authority to cancel the trip or change the itinerary, when deemed necessary or when we have reason to believe your safety is at stake. Weather conditions, the health condition of a group member, natural disasters, and such, can contribute to changes in the itinerary when traveling in remote mountainous regions. In these extreme situations, we kindly request that you offer your full co-operation to the trusted leader of the group appointed by Alpine Club of Himalaya. However, we assure you that we will make every effort to keep to the above itinerary.
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Day 1 Arrival KATHMANDU (1300m/4265ft)

Arrive at Kathmandu International Airport where you will be warmly welcomed by our representative and check in to the hotel. The rest of the day is free to explore this historic and vibrant city.  Meals: Welcome Dinner

Day 2 Acclimatize in KATHMANDU

After breakfast we depart the hotel for a full-day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu, the “city of glory.” We visit Durbar (Palace) Square, the epicenter of religious and cultural life, an area filled with old temples and historical significance with old glorious Newari architecture. Some of the sights include Kal Bhairav, Hanuman Dhoka, Taleju Temple, Kasthamandap and Kumari Ghar; home to the Living Goddess. Afterwards we visit Swoyambhunath Stupa, said to be one of the oldest Buddhist stupas in the world, which is majestically set high on a hill overlooking Kathmandu Valley. We proceed towards Pashupatinath Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This massive temple complex sits alongside the banks of the holy Bagmati River. Only Hindus are allowed to enter the courtyard of the temple, whereas tourists can see the temple from the eastern side of the Bagmati River.  Later we visit Boudhanath, a Buddhist Stupa said to be one of the largest in the world. This massive structure stands tall with four pairs of eyes each facing the four cardinal directions, watching for righteous behavior of mankind and for human prosperity. Overnight at hotel. Meals: Breakfast

Day 3 Fly to LUKLA (2800m/9187ft) and trek to PUIYAN (2770m/9088ft)

The journey begins from Kathmandu to Lukla by plane. This airstrip is simply amazing which takes about half an hour to reach there. We start our trek down from Lukla. It makes sense to fly up to Lukla for acclimatization and walk down. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills, we gradually reach the vicinity of Puiyan. We can have the pleasure of witnessing numerous peaks from here such as Knogde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and other peaks above 7 thousand meters. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 4 Trek  to PANGKONGAMA (2846m/9338ft)

After crossing the Puiyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma. We can not miss the outstanding views of Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kund Himal before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangkongama for night’s rest. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 5 Trek to NASHING DINGMA (2600m/8531ft)

With fine views westwards towards Takshindu Monastery and Lamjura, we make our ascend through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. On the way up to the Pangkongma La, it is worth detouring via the Pangkongma Monastery for a guided visit. From the pass, we can have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma.  Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 6 Trek to CHALEM KHARKA (3600m/11812ft)

The trail gets steeper as we climb up to the Surke La gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery. Eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka, set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 7 Trek  to CHUNBU KHARKA (4200m/13780ft)

Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokhari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 8 Acclimatization at CHUNBU KHARKA

Today, we may have a well-earned rest day, though for those feeling fit, there is a rewarding walk up to a hanging corrie lake behind the camp. This has good views and helps aid acclimatization.  Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 9 Trek  to  HINKU VALLEY

We set off from Chunbu Kharka and climb steeply uphill for 20 minutes or so, before contouring around high above the Hinku Valley. We then make a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron to eventually arrive on the valley floor, where we cross to the west bank of Hinku River by a wooden bridge at Khote. Khote is now quite a large settlement of lodges that have been built over the past 10 years. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 10 Trek to THANGNAK (4700m/15421ft)

Today, we follow the west bank of the riverbed up the valley to Thangnak. A magnificent, towering mountain, known by its survey name of Peak 39 or on some maps, “Kayashar “, dominates the head of the valley. The trail leads steadily up the side of the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley. Finally, we reach  Thangnak, which has grown into a small hamlet of tea-shops and lodges since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 11 Trek  to KHARE (5025m/16487ft)

Today, we walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka, close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier. This is a pleasant, grassy camp in an impressive situation. We head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish us throughout our life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from our campsite at Khare.  Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 12 Acclimatization in KHARE

Acclimatizing does not, of course, mean staying inside and having rest all day. It is important to take short leisurely walks during the day, or climb few feet, to help our body better adapt to the high altitude. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 13 Trek to MERA BASE CAMP

This is an exciting day as we climb onto the Mera Glacier and follow it to the pass. This is a superb high mountain setting and is a worthwhile objective in itself. We need to walk through rock-strewn area for about two hours to make our way to Mera High Camp. The trail can be hazardous if it has recently snowed as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp and from here the sunrise and sunset can be view along with the Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe,  Nuptse,  Chamlang and Baruntse are outstanding and seems like they are piercing the skyline. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 14 MERA PEAK ASCENT

The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb. Our reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as we survey the magnificent panorama from the top.  From the summit, can be seen the spectacular views of Mt. Everest (8848m/29030ft), Cho Oyu (8210m/26937t), Lhotse (8516m/27941ft), Makalu (8463m/27767ft), Kangchenjunga (8586m/28170t), Nuptse (7855m/25772ft), Chamlang (7319m/24013ft), Baruntse (7129m/23390ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22350ft), Kangtega (6779m/22241ft) and many peaks over six thousands meters. After achieving the summit, we retrace our steps down to high camp. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 15 Rest Day at MERA HIGH CAMP

Our mission is fulfilled so we can take it slow. This is a spare day to allow for bad weather or for additional summit attempts. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 16 Trek  to SETO POKHARI

We commence our summit day in the early morning and end up with a 100m (328ft) ascent with rope and ice climbing to reach the summit. The magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8848m/29030ft), Cho Oyu (8201m/26907ft), Lhotse (8516m/27940ft), Makalu (8463m/27766ft), Kangchenjunga (8586m/28169ft), Nuptse (7855m/25770ft), Lubuche (6145m/20160ft), Chamlang (7319m/24013ft) are spectacular from the summit. We then retrace our steps to Mera Base Camp. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 17 Trek to AMPHU LAPCHA BASE CAMP (South)

From the Mera La we descend into the Hinku valley. After about few hours we stop for some rest by a lake and then continue to the Hinku river, which we follow for another few hours to yet another spectacular campsite by the ‘White Lake’/Lampokhari near Chamlang. Amphu Lapcha is the pass most commonly crossed for expeditions climbing both Mera and Imja Tse (Island Peak). Mera is often climbed first as it is technically easier peak. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 18 Trek  to AMPHU LAPCHA BASE CAMP (North) (5300m/17389ft)

Starting from the South base of Amphu Lapcha, we start from an early morning climb. The precipitous crest of the Amphu Lapcha is one of the most dizzying and dramatic crossings in the Himalaya.The climb involve steep sections on rock and ice. It’s better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable, i.e., before sunlight melts the snow. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. Reaching at the Amphu Lapcha North Base Camp, we camp and spend the night there. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 19 REST DAYMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 20 Cross AMPHU LAPCHAMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 21 Climb to ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP (4970m/16307ft) 3-4 hours

The path from Chhukung leads fairly steep way climbing south then turning east to the main line of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside leads to what we call Big-rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. Stay over night in Island Peak Base Camp. Overnight at tented camp.  Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 22 Climb to ISLAND PEAK HIGH CAMP (5600m/18372ft) 2-3 hours

The path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As we climb the hill, we will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel. Stay overnight in Island Peak High Camp. Overnight at tented camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.


Day 23 SUMMIT ISLAND PEAK (6189m/20305ft)

We start the climb to rocky gully early in the morning which is not much difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before we emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. We need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m (330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.


Day 24 Trek TENGBOCHE (3870m/12697ft) 5-6 hours

The trail makes a gradual descent through scrub junipers and around mani stones as it follows the hillside. The trail passes many mani walls in deep rhododendron forests where crossing after the Imja Khola, the trail climbs many carved mani stones to Pangboche. Pangboche Gompa is the oldest in Khumbu; a visit will be well worth. Walk down to the valley from where the trail is shallower through alpine meadows. Followed by climb gradually up to Tengboche where the biggest monastery lies in the whole of Khumbu. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 25 Trek back NAMCHE BAZAAR

From Tengboche we move towards Phunki Tenga and now descend to Sanasa and Kyangjuma and then finally to Namche Bazar. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 26 Trek back LUKLA

Our final day’s trekking follows the Dudh Kosi down to Lukla retracing the way we came up. Overnight at guest house. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 27 Fly back KATHMANDU

We fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu and are dropped to the hotel. This is a leisure day which can be utilized buying gifts and souvenirs for your friends and family. In the evening you will be invited to join FAREWELL reviewing great photos and share experiences of the trip. Overnight at hotel.  Meals: Breakfast, Farewell Dinner

Day 28 Fly back HOME or extend your HOLIDAYS

If you prefer to stay longer, you can consult us for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, mountain biking, Tibet, India or Bhutan tours etc.  Meals: Breakfast

Nepal has seen many rulers and ruling dynasties, which lead to a colorful, mixed history. Kathmandu Valley being the heart of Nepal is a natural basin of patchwork of terraced fields and sacred temple towns that showcase the glory of the ancient architects and artisans of Nepal.

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